• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Towing on an open trailer. In neutral or in park even though it is strapped down? What say ye?

How about driving on a trailer that the hitch isn't locked to the ball of the truck??
Save it for another thread? LOL
:eek:
 
33 IMP said:
BTDT.
Click to expand...
In all of my multi-check stops, that is one of the things I religiously check, the hitch and ball. Making sure the lock pin is secured and locked, Check. The chains and hooks are locked and not dragging on the road, Check. Tail light wire harness is secured, Check. Just a sigh of comfort when those things are checked along with the straps.
I personally like a trailer with lots of reflector strips on the side boards and fenders. Even magnetic reflector strips on the trunk of the car. Never enough reflective lights to let those know who are in back of you and flanking you that a trailer with a car on top is trailing your tow vehicle.
 
RemCharger said:
How about driving on a trailer that the hitch isn't locked to the ball of the truck??
Save it for another thread? LOL
:eek:
Click to expand...
How abour reciever pins breaking. That does happen. One friend 2 times. We both use grade 8 bolts with a nylock nut now. Or towing a 2 5/16" tounge with a 2" ball.
Doug
 
dvw said:
Or towing a 2 5/16" tounge with a 2" ball.
Doug
Click to expand...
This makes for a nasty rip up thru the tail gate trim on your shiny SLT tail gate trim panel , ( dont ask me how I know )
 
dvw said:
How abour reciever pins breaking. That does happen. One friend 2 times. We both use grade 8 bolts with a nylock nut now. Or towing a 2 5/16" tounge with a 2" ball.
Doug
Click to expand...
Are you talking the solid receiver pin that goes through the female/male receiver body that holds the ball?
While I was in Michigan this last time, I purchased a solid male receiver tongue that weighed like 30 Lbs, but it was solid and not a hollow box tube construction. I also purchased the correct 2-5/16 ball with enough thread to clear the lock washer and nut.
 
fullmetaljacket said:
Are you talking the solid receiver pin that goes through the female/male receiver body that holds the ball?
While I was in Michigan this last time, I purchased a solid male receiver tongue that weighed like 30 Lbs, but it was solid and not a hollow box tube construction. I also purchased the correct 2-5/16 ball with enough thread to clear the lock washer and nut.
Click to expand...
Yes the solid pin. My buddys stacker has broke 2 of them. Along with damage to the back of a really upscale coach.
Doug
 
dvw said:
Yes the solid pin. My buddys stacker has broke 2 of them. Along with damage to the back of a really upscale coach.
Doug
Click to expand...
Wow. I'm going USA made grade 8 bolt just as you are. A lot of this sh!t is made by farmed out contractors that use inferior materials and have no concern for peoples lives or livelihoods. I use the solid male receiver and 2-5/16 ball rated to 14,000 LBS.
 
I used to like to use a short nylon 2' x 3" strap upfront
one near the middle cut & fit to length, hooks on either ends
I'd winch the car in/on or push it on
hook that strap up, then
'pull it back & down as much as possible in the rear'
I had D-rings or adj. t-bar floor rails on all my trailers,
specific for my cars
some (like my altered, less than 1800#s)) had the front tires strapped down
& strap in the rear pulling down & back straight, 'relatively' straight anyway

I never cross straps, any car ever
even on open trailers 1st starting out, when I was a young buck
that's how my stepdad Bob did it, when I was a kid
I don't ever remember him ever having a problem with a car on a trailer
even when he lost a tire & wheel, 'car' it never moved

my tube chassis cars had truck tire tubes
I'd inflate on each side of the chassis to absorb some of the bouncings
or rear tires losing some air on the trip takes up the slop, keeps it tight
like slicks have a tendency to do in huge temp. swings & conditions
I'd deflate & remove when I got to my destinations
or have them under the cars the with 'double frame rail chassis',
like the T/S, outlaw-P/M, Outlaw-Pro-stock cars

Many had welded/tie-down loops built into the chassis to tie off too
using the shortest tie-downs/straps as possible,
usually 2 x 3" ratchet straps pulling it straight back & down, in the rear
usually in/under the rear-end area
I did tie the 'rear chassis' down for a long time too
until I was told not to 'by Lamb' the shock/strut manufacturer...
Usually Tied it back from the 1 winch &/or a short strap/s upfront
&/or 2 over-the-wheel/tire anchors up front,
& adjustable wheel chucks, with push pin locks in the floor,
so it couldn't (hopefully) roll back or forward
if a strap broke or came loose between checks/stops

I never had a car really come loose, I'd check 'them' most food or fuel stops
I had about 750,000+ miles on mainly 4 (5) different rigs, a Ford F350, GM 3500 duallys
later 2 a 95 & 98 Dodge PowerRam 2500 4x4s 12 valve Cummins
when I quit traveling cross country, ultimately used a Kodiac Intermediate/midsize
best truck I ever towed with, put the least amount of miles on too :poke:
(Started out with an open, wood deck Big Tex 20' trailer, towing with a 76 C10 1/2 ton Stepside)
many different style trailers, even a Featherlite double stacker 43'
35 years towing all over/across the US & up & down the west coast

I hope I didn't just jinx myself

that was my experiance, yours may vary

Wall of Text Batman -shut up Robin he was talking.jpg
 
Last edited:
I had a plan for my tie downs. I used a very solid single point in the front, either short chain or short wide strap. In the rear I always used the cross strap method, mostly to the frame keeping the shocks in tight compression. This was very successful for me. It would hold up for very long tows. I also always towed in neutral. I had many, many thousand miles of towing since I was a traveling bracket racer.
 
33 IMP said:
The vast majority of my towing is done in california, where the speed limit for towing vehicles, or trucks with three axles or more, is 55mph. (Highway car speed limit, 70 mph.)
Of course, NOBODY making a living driving a truck does 55. I tend to set my cruise control to the same speed as the majority of semi's, around 63. I actually find the reduction in speed relaxing.
Click to expand...
I have a cousin that has been driving truck for 45 years. He has a top speed of 55 mph. He’s a Canadian but runs more miles in the US. He says you can’t make money going faster!
 
33 IMP said:
To each his own . I'll never cross strap again. If the law requires it (some states do) I'll put some toy 1" harbor freight straps on it crossed, and use my good straps in line.
If you wanna see why, check out "why I don't cross strap" videos on you tube.
Click to expand...
I cross strap the rears and have never broken a 3/8'' proof chain yet. I use good straps up front not the cheap ones with the dyed-on stiches and a safety chain. Always check for frays on them. Why use $20.00 straps on your 20k car.
 
Here is Matt’s off road recovery and now he ties a vehicle to a trailer.

He does off road recovery in Utah and Arizona area. Plenty of videos online. Pretty interesting things he does.

F3464683-5AC4-4B90-8012-C985C9CB44C4.jpeg


89ED6A6A-6FEC-486C-8372-5BA52E5AE119.jpeg


70498C0A-D1BE-4A7F-A860-3C118CB2CA77.jpeg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top