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Tremec TKX 5-Speed Conversion

I've bypassed the clutch switches on my M/T rides before too. Not keen on starting an engine while pressing the clutch in. Not good for thrust mains in my opinion.
 
So you always start in neutral?
I do. Well, 90% or more of the time.
Even with my limited experience driving sick shift cars, I know the effect of what a stiff clutch has on the engine. Given the limited miles these cars are driven, it may be inconsequential but hey....
Another thought....The clutches most of us run in these Tremec conversions are not as stiffly sprung and the old fashioned Borg and Beck units from 30 years ago.
 
46 years since the 383HP in my Bee was rebuilt for about $300. I push the clutch in every time I start it and has been SOP since it was new. TTBOMK, engine don't give a damn. Start my hemi and the Wife's 383x 4 gear 67 Formula S the same way.
 
2. reverse lights. my car was a column shift automatic. what did you guys do the hook the reverse lights to the new

your going to need to get the electrical layout schematic for the car

two pins are on driver side of tko i think

one wire needed will be the reverse line from the column ( this goes to one pin). the other pin you will need to ground to body


watermelon
 
So you always start in neutral?
Yes
Another thought....The clutches most of us run in these Tremec conversions are not as stiffly sprung and the old fashioned Borg and Beck units from 30 years ago.
The diaphragm clutches we run make the pedal pressure less than the Borg and Back style, but I don't think the clamping force is any different.
 
your going to need to get the electrical layout schematic for the car

two pins are on driver side of tko i think

one wire needed will be the reverse line from the column ( this goes to one pin). the other pin you will need to ground to body


watermelon
That makes sense. i have the neutral switch wire from my automatic grounded to the engine for now.
i like the idea of the neutral switch being operational. if i can avoid even one accidental key bump with the car in gear that is good insurance.
 
That makes sense. i have the neutral switch wire from my automatic grounded to the engine for now.
i like the idea of the neutral switch being operational. if i can avoid even one accidental key bump with the car in gear that is good insurance.
Use the original three wires from the automatic, leave it plugged into the bulkhead connector and the starter relay, then down at the plug by the trans the center wire goes to the switch at the rear on the tail shaft housing,, the second wire from that switch gets grounded to the case of the trans...

That will allow the starter to crank only when the transmission is in neutral..

The two outer wires go to the switch in the middle of the drivers side of the main case...

That should give you reverse lights
 
Thing is....I've pulled engines apart that had been static for years and the bearings weren't dry. Surprised me the first time I pulled one apart that had been sitting for a very long time. How long does it take for 'all' the oil to drain off of a bearing? It doesn't happen over night nor does it happen after weeks Pror months.

Probably 100 years. Complete non-issue.
 
For those thinking clutch in will hurt the thrust what are you doing about connecting rod and main bearing loads when cranking? (from compression).

150-250psi and 14.66 square inches on a 4.32 bore. Uh oh!

:)
 
For those thinking clutch in will hurt the thrust what are you doing about connecting rod and main bearing loads when cranking? (from compression).

150-250psi and 14.66 square inches on a 4.32 bore. Uh oh!

:)
Accept compression load is in line with the throws of the crankshaft, there is virtually no thrust load... Pressure plate release is 100% thrust load...
 
Accept compression load is in line with the throws of the crankshaft, there is virtually no thrust load... Pressure plate release is 100% thrust load...

Yes of course they aren't contributing to thrust but they are bearings under load with no oil pressure during initial cranking just the same.
 
Yes of course they aren't contributing to thrust but they are bearings under load with no oil pressure during initial cranking just the same.
So five main bearings, each with an area about twice the size of the thrust surface... Add to the they are horizontal surfaces where oil with tend to puddle whereas the thrust surface is vertical and tends to shed oil...

Enough already, you do you, I'll continue to put my manual trans in neutral when starting...
 
The entire engine is filled with components loaded much heavier and have a higher failure rate than the thrust. ALL bearings, the entire valvetrain.

But no concern about those, just the thrust which is the lowest failure rate of all of them. How many millions of cars with a clutch defeat switch from the factory?

I don't care in the slightest what you do. I'm just telling you this is an imagined problem that does not exist.
 
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