tube chassis ideas?

[dodgediesel59]

I'm sure it has been done before, but I am planning on building my 68 coronet into a pro street car. The plans are for a small block and twin turbos. I am thinking power to the ground will be between 900 and 1100 horse. I'm new to these cars and curious what my options are. I'm not too sure a back half will be enough to hold that car together. I run my own welding and fab shop so most of it could be built in house. What are some thoughts on guys who have done this or are familiar?

 

[benno440]

shwartz performance, art Morrison all build full chassis for our mopars, some bolt in leaving the remaining mono frame where the art Morrison you actually remove the entire frame and install theres.

 

[mmissile]

A super-stock type chassis would be where I'd look. Full-on tube cars aren't especially comfy or street friendly. If ya plan on driving it, you need to have something that's made for driving for more than a straight-line, and various types of uneven road surfaces. If it's for looks...eh, anything will work. You can also buy a really nice/used roller, for far less than building one. Look on the specific websites.

 

[dodgediesel59]

So from anyone's experience what is needed to keep the car from twisting into a pretzel? I would rather avoid the full tube chassis if I could but don't want to twist the car up either.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Look at the suspension form on this site. I believe you will find the answer there.

 

[benno440]

what are you going to be doing to it that might cause it to twist up?
just put some subframe connectors in and your done if it is just a street car

 

[snakeyes]

at one time a while back I posted a thread I think about putting a tube chassis under a B-Body ,not sure if this was part of it [video]http://www.powerperformancenews.com/features/put-a-modern-perimeter-chassis-underneath-your-mopar-b-body/[/video]

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[video]http://www.schwartzperformance.com/mopar-b-body-chassis-full-frame/[/video]

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[Cranky]

1100 hp shouldn't hurt it if you install a full cage with supports to the front and rear frame kickouts with frame ties in the middle and all tied together. A unitized body is pretty strong and is not prone to a lot of flexing and with a full cage done right, you shouldn't have any problems. I helped a buddy with a 3500 lb Challenger that ran 9.30's and that is what he did to it. A car with less weight would be better but his didn't twist away.

 

[dodgediesel59]

So where can a guy like me read about building the proper cage? I might still back half the car as I would really like to 4 link the car as well.

 

[glassman]

If you are doing a turbo motor, put all your time into R7D on that motor and let a qualified race shop back half your car. John Holt Race Cars in Columbus , Ohio is doing a back half on a former Pinks winner. It is a 68-70 white Charger. It's awsome. Holt does a lot of SS/AH cars , and that style would work for your needs.