Turbo Slant Six '65 Belvedere Sedan

[Ryguytoodry]

I had one already started but it's all over the place. The car is being built for the strip only, towed to the track.
Before I stored the car for winter I put all new poly bushings in the car, c-body tie rods, moog balljoints, ss leaf springs 3800lb rate and I converted it to manual steering. The car is completely gutted, trying to get close to 2700lbs without driver, plexiglass windows are being considered. I have the engine and tranny out right now. Engine is a stock '71 bottom end. I'm sending out the head in the next couple of weeks to get ported and polished with big valves. Clifford 4bbl intake manifold with Holley 650 dp set up for blow thru. For now I'm going to use the stock exhaust manifold with a j-pipe to the turbo. I'm not 100% on the turbo size right now but I'm pretty sure on a t3 with a .63a/r (similar to a grand national). I'm aiming for about 12 psi to start. Tranny is a 904, going with a manual valve body and floor shift. Haven't decided on a driveshaft yet, but the rearend is going to be a spool with 2.76 gears. Hoping to work my way into the 11's by the end of the upcoming season.

 

[HT413]

Awesome build. There's a guy here with a similar build, can't remember his name but I'm pretty sure he's on a-bodies, turbo forums too. If I recall, he says he has the 'ugliest sleeper ever' or something like that. Real screamer or a car.

 

[Ryguytoodry]

Just a little update since the cars in storage for winter and the holidays were quite busy....

Got a B&M megashifter (ratchet shifter) for Christmas from my dad, and I'm sending the cylinder head out in a couple days to get ported and bigger valves in it. Hopefully it flows above around 210cfm, but who knows. Has anyone had experience with manual valvebodies? I'm pretty set on the Cheetah series ones, the more expensive one that allows engine braking (just in case). If I have enough cash left over after tuition and books I'll order the rest of the stuff for the engine and tranny and hopefully have it ready for when I get the Belvie from storage.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

That's an awesome gift from pops. I have used cheetah manual valve bodies in the past. They work great.

 

[Photon440]

What a great idea. Ever since seeing a /6 turbo build up in a Turbo magazine back in the 70's I've been intrigued by the idea of it.
Your starting point of the turbo size like Buicks makes sense since they're about the same size engine.

If you want even more weight reduction, trying to find one of the early (61-63) die cast aluminum slant six blocks would help, but they're rare.

While reducing back pressure will be less of an issue with a turbo you may still consider headers (like this http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51347) to further reduce weight and get away from the /6 cracking exhaust problem. Also a weight reduction.

Looking forward to following this one.

-=Photon440=-

 

[bigblock]

You better change to a lower gear ratio if you want 11's.

 

[Ryguytoodry]

Yeah, I'm on .org Photon! This exhaust manifold is just for this season. I just want to get the car back together and slowly finish it off from there. I want to design a equal length ram horn style manifold eventually. I have a set of long tube headers that I was going to cut the end off of and reroute the tubes into a big 6-1 collector, but then the piping will be so long I'll have to brake spool as soon as I stage and that might not even be enough time.

Regarding the aluminum block, they also made an aluminum head as well. The problem with the block is the price first off (a block just went for $1500 not including shipping), the rarity of them, and they have an issue of corroding on the deck.

A gn turbo was what I was going for, but I have changed my mind and decided to go with a hx35 off of a cummins diesel ram. They are more plentiful, and there is a lot of aftermarket support for them if I decide the turbo in stock form does not flow enough.

A couple friends of mine are running their cars in a 11.5 heads up class in a series this year. If I can get the car together and tuned by then I'm hoping to join them.

The gear ratio is staying. Turbo's like load and run better off of higher gears. A couple guys tested it with their turbo slants with similar builds as mine and the car was a lot stronger. I also experienced it myself in a turbo civic before.

 

[GrabberOrange69]

Good luck with the build. Engine pictures when you got 'em please!

 

[Herr_Poopschitz]

You better change to a lower gear ratio if you want 11's.

Not necessarily.

What kinda rpm this thing gonna turn?

 

[Hemi Rebel]

I would be more concerned with the rear springs you got. You are going to have springs for s 3800 lb car when yours is going to be 1000 lbs less. Its going to be like driving a hardtail Harley. If its too stiff your suspension will work against you. Spin city

 

[Ryguytoodry]

Not too high, for now with stock bottom end and stock cam probably 5000-5500, depending on what the dyno shows. It will probably fall off between 5000-5250.

The heavier the spring (for superstocks) the more it will dig into the ground, the car will not be turning. I'm not worried about the ride comfort, towed to the track, do my runs with it, put it back on the trailer and take it home.

 

[Photon440]

Not too high, for now with stock bottom end and stock cam probably 5000-5500, depending on what the dyno shows. It will probably fall off between 5000-5250.
[edit]

That's the whole point isn't it? Reduce high rpm stress by letting the turbo build the power at lower rpms.

 

[Ryguytoodry]

Yeah, some people assume boost is meant for higher rpms though haha. Thats why I'm not running a massive turbo size. Hopefully full boost will come on around 2000-2500. The torque this car is going to make is going to be a huge change. I'm used to low torque high revving cars. It will take me a while to learn how to launch properly and keep it straight

 

[Herr_Poopschitz]

Not too high, for now with stock bottom end and stock cam probably 5000-5500, depending on what the dyno shows. It will probably fall off between 5000-5250.

Not familiar w/ built slant 6's is why I asked. I know I had a throttle return spring break on one I had once upon a time and figured the 1 bbl was acting as a built in flow/rev limiter...even WOT w/ no load didn't sound like many rpm. I always figured they were little more than tractor engines.

Looked up some info and it looks like you're following a proven recipe if you can get the weight down. Def need the transbrake. What're guys using for converters?

 

[Ryguytoodry]

No trans brake, just brake boost for now. Once boost starts to build it comes on quick. The converter I'm looking at is an 11" with somewhere between 3200-3500 stall. Its rated at 2500 for a big block, another guy is using it and we have pretty close to the same setup. My boost will come on before his because of turbo sizing. The converter is an old mopar design. Forget what its called.

I figure the way it sits before swtiching to lexan is probably 2800 lbs. I'll start off with the tune at around 12 psi and maybe bring it up to 15 once I get everything sorted out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMwcDlJGss0

21 psi on a stock slant 6 with a 2 barrel blow thru. Full body valiant.

 

[Jonnyuma]

I know I had a throttle return spring break on one I had once upon a time...

One word: Dual Return Spring.

Yes, I know that's like, 3 words...or sumthin.

Math is hard.

Cool build, Ryguy. Ima gonna be followin' this one.

 

[Herr_Poopschitz]

One word: Dual Return Spring.

Yes, I know that's like, 3 words...or sumthin.

Math is hard.

Stock slant six...so only had one, I was in high school, and happened between shifts. Even if it had been in gear, I'm pretty sure you don't need cat-like reflexes to figure out what's happening and shut the thing down before it became dangerous. The car ran the quarter in like 20 sec at 60 mph. lol

Thanks though.

 

[Ryguytoodry]

The car ran the quarter in like 20 sec at 60 mph. lol

Sounds familiar haha

 

[Herr_Poopschitz]

No trans brake, just brake boost for now. Once boost starts to build it comes on quick. The converter I'm looking at is an 11" with somewhere between 3200-3500 stall. Its rated at 2500 for a big block, another guy is using it and we have pretty close to the same setup. My boost will come on before his because of turbo sizing. The converter is an old mopar design. Forget what its called.

Not sure what your budget is, but if you can swing it, I highly recommend a custom converter...no off the shelf unit will shine w/ your combo, and if you're gonna have the VB out anyway, please look into a brake. That little bit of lag from foot braking waiting for the turbo to spool is great for the street cuz it gives you traction, but launching at full boost on slicks w/ a 'brake will be a whole different experience and give you the best ET's. Just suggestions...spent time on a few turbo mustangs and have some scars...all EFI though, no blow-thru other than what I've read.

Doing anything to control inlet temps?

 

[Ryguytoodry]

Yeah, my budget is pretty slim haha. Even considering looking for sponsors to cut some costs. I'm basically throwing the car together this year and working on perfecting it from there. I'm considering running a drag radial at first to see how it goes. I don't want to buy slicks if it's just going to fall flat on its face. I'm going to use a front mount air to air intercooler, just to keep things simple. Probably going to end up where the grille goes.