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Installing the new control arm with balljoint allready attached. It seams like the balljoint stud isn't seating as far as it should in the steering knuckle. I've had it apart and together 3 times. It is torqued properly. I haven't greased it yet. Does this look right? Thanks
I just did mine over the winter with Moog parts and the ball joint came with a washer. Without it the hole for the cotter pin would not be in the castle nut.
When you removed it after the first time. Where you able to pull it off by hand or did you have to pop it off? In other words did the taper seat in the knuckle arm?
That boot should be compressed some. Where did you get the joints from? I've seen differences in stud length, on stock replacement joints, when the manufacture has been overseas. On an old shoebox Chevy I worked on with a Mustang II conversion, there was 3/4" of difference in the stud length between the ones he got from Speedway, made in Taiwan/China, and what I took out of the car. To see if it was something from junk manufacturing or longer length units for circle track, I picked one up from NAPA and there was only 1/4" difference to what I took out. The shorter stud was causing the upper control arm at the joint pocket to get hung up on the spindle and you could not move it.
The wider side is on the side of the bumpstop. When I took it apart it came apart with alot of force. I will try to install the cotter pin and grease the fitting. The only other thing is that the taper of the hole in the knuckle is no longer shaped correctly. Is that a possibility ? Thanks to all for the help on this.
There's your problem. Anything is possible, making parts not going together right.
Only 'fix' I can think of...use a machinist's tapered reamer, check if the tapers match, and ONLY clean the tapered hole, until the ball joint stud goes in enough.
I talked to Mancini Racing I sent some photos to the them and they said that it has the right amount of threads are showing. So this weekend I will get back to it.