Valve lash / head gasket etc.

[Moparjack 489]

I think you'll find that chart to get you very close. For aluminum heads on iron block, they're subtracting lash. Going by their numbers, you would cold lash your intake valves to .012". The .003 tighter lash was suggested as a starting point. You may or may not need to go more.
Remember--it's all relative to how your engine performs at a given setting. You may find your combo picks up some pep at a slightly different spec than the card. Trial and error is the only way to get it truly spot-on. Target the card spec as a starting point and you won't go wrong.

Thanks ! Perfect . I understand !!

 

[beanhead]

You can always rest in the fact that your engine has it's design roots here,

 

[Moparjack 489]

I am also fairly sure he is right, as I had written, way back in post #2!!




I just figured with head gasket off the notches would be much more visible.

What is your plan for this beast?

yes , thank you !
The plans ?
That’s a good question !
The engine is still already in my charger and normally I like to street driven it ( in Germany you can drive the autobahn ( highway ) as fast as you want, ( I have a gear vendor installed on the 727 too , and of course some funny weekend quatermile runs too but nothing serious , because I too much rookie , maybe later when I learn about wrenching on engine much more

my main problem now , and also why I ask for re -torque the head gasket is :

the engine was fine , after I bring in a car shop for a repair on my Charger they must took my Hemi out of the engine compartment .
After finish the repair and before the shop bring my Hemi in the engine room again I ask for sone maintenance on my Hemi... like check the bearing shell on crankshaft and rod , change distributor gear to the new Nearly maintenance free One from crane cams CRN-66970-1. Before I had the milodon brass gear , but on street driven they not alive so long .. and some other small maintenance things...,

After finish the small maintenance things the car shop take my Hemi back in the engine compartment and start it ... I don’t know what they guys was doing , but anywhere after they install my Hemi again the shop owner call me and say my head gasket are leaking a little bid water to outside ( not inside , no water in oil , no oil in water ) just on the inside corners what is a normal standard Hemi Problem he says to me !

but anywhere ... the fact is :
I bring the car with the Hemi in the shop with a no leaking and no damaged head gasket in the shop , and after his maintenance on my Hemi I have a broken head gasket
I don’t know what they done , but anywhere I think they overhead my engine when they start it after maintenance it . that’s for me the only explanation why my head gasket are unseal now , what you guys think ? Just overhead my engine maybe by try to set the timing new ? Or whatever , Elektrik fan was not running but no one cares and see it . Something like this o think .. And this shop also build my Hemi years ago , but anywhere the engine had only 4000 miles on it when they kill my head gasket .
But I think also when they build my engine years ago they never re-torque the head gasket I believe ... that’s why I ask for re - torque head gasket necesarry after build and first warm ups or not .
My thinking:
Maybe because they never re-torque my head gasket on the Hemi and now they maybe overheat the Hemi a little the gasket goes little unseal just to outside the block , because never he re -torque it ....
what you think ?

 

[68Moparmaniac]

Thank you very much , very interesting . And it’s also that’s what dvw says , he Substract my cam card advice , because I have a cast iron block and Aluminium heads , means if they go hot the lash goes tighter then cold , right ?

That’s all very well maybe but if it was mine I wouldn’t go tighter on initial set up. Too tight on the lash and you smoke a valve so it’s your choice. Calculating thermal expansion of dissimilar materials isn’t a walk in the park my friend.

 

[Moparjack 489]

That’s all very well maybe but if it was mine I wouldn’t go tighter on initial set up. Too tight on the lash and you smoke a valve so it’s your choice. Calculating thermal expansion of dissimilar materials isn’t a walk in the park my friend.

Yes, but the guys also tell go just 0.03 and not like the list say 0.06 tighter in cold check. After short running to hot check it quickly and see what’s reading and after find the right and perfect setting

 

[dvw]

Indy aluminum -1 heads, iron Mega block, T&D 1.7 shaft rockers. Changes .003" cold to hot. 8 years, 650 passes. Lashed every 20-25 passes. I can do it in my sleep in 15 minutes.
Doug

 

[glorydays]

You mean the head gasket are “ **** “ have to use a better one ? What you recommend ?

hahahah yes your head gasket is a 1106 fel pro. i had the same gasket that did seal up but i used a smear of RTV on all the oil/water ports. but i tell you sure as **** that stainless steel core does not line up correctly. and will cause it not to seal. this happened to me. but mine was nothing but milk shake... your mileage may vary but if your hemi builder as correctly states they leak in those spots.. He should know to rtv the ports... i'm no pro, but I've been wrenching on mine. i suggest u take it down to head gaskets yourself and live and learn.... also the general rule with aluminum head is to not torque them inner studs down to 70lbs. i usually don't type this much but i just smoked a lefty peace

 

[68Moparmaniac]

Yes, but the guys also tell go just 0.03 and not like the list say 0.06 tighter in cold check. After short running to hot check it quickly and see what’s reading and after find the right and perfect setting

I'm thinking your numbers should read .003-.006 instead of .03-.06... that's a huge difference in measurements

 

[Moparjack 489]

I'm thinking your numbers should read .003-.006 instead of .03-.06... that's a huge difference in measurements

yes , you right man !

 

[Moparjack 489]

Hi again , I need you’re help again guys !!

Any suggestion about my main and rod bearing caps ?

I just get this photos from the mopar and engine shop who build the Hemi and was now after 4000 miles inspect rod bearing 7 and 8 , and main bearing 4 and 5 because the engine was out of the car and I give the order for checking the bearings just for Interest.

After the shop inspect my bearings I ask if everything ok with the bearings ?

They answer me yes everything normal not necessary to change the bearings . and they put the checked ones Back to the engine .

After the engine was together again they send me also the pictures of the checking procedure ...

what you think about it, I a Full rookie , but hey is there not some missing piece of bearing on the corner of one rod bearing ???

And how about the other bearings and crankshaft ? It’s normal “ wear” after 4000 miles drive ( no race , no full throttle , just normal cruising drive it up to 4000 miles )

 

[Moparjack 489]

Here on the corner ? Or is this normal ?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

That bearing is shot, whatever caused that should be rectified.

 

[Moparjack 489]

Here some pictures from the oil pan , what you think . The shop tells me also all be ok , no problem with the oil .

 

[Moparjack 489]

That bearing is shot, whatever caused that should be rectified.

thank you for you’re suggest!

oh my god , this shop who built the engine and check the bearings tells me just be normal wear , not necessary to change it , and put the old bearing on again... damnn .