• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Vinyl top studs

chargerrt340

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:28 AM
Joined
Jun 10, 2014
Messages
95
Reaction score
13
Location
SoCal and SoOr
I just took over this family project. Years back, like 16 years ago, my dad removed the vinyl top and ground off some of the studs. He never finished the car. Unfortunately I like the vinyl top and think it will look good with my paint scheme, and have to get the vinyl top back on.


My question to the experts is, how do I do it?


1. Somebody on another site replied somewhere the molding can be replaced with a reproduction adhesive based trim, removing the need for tabs? If this is the case where can I
find them to research their effectiveness?


2. Where do I purchase, or how do I make replacement tabs?



I attached photos so you can see what I am dealing with.


Thank you for you help guys. The car has been garaged since I was in high school almost 16 years ago (still starts after a few cranks). I am going to pull it out soon, shine it up, and get some pictures of it before I start putting it back together.
 

Attachments

  • Copy of 100_1141.jpg
    Copy of 100_1141.jpg
    61 KB · Views: 334
  • IMG_1766.jpg
    IMG_1766.jpg
    62.5 KB · Views: 370
  • IMG_1767.jpg
    IMG_1767.jpg
    43.8 KB · Views: 355
  • IMG_1770.jpg
    IMG_1770.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 368
I would retain the original moldings if I had a choice. The molding holds the edge of the vinyl down so it won't curl up so you really need the holding power of the clip / molding to do this.
the tabs can be replaced with a stainless shouldered screw to hold the clip on or
you could find a body shop or person who has a stud welder like a spitznagel stud welder and have the trim rivet spot welded back on th4e body rivets here
we have the Spitznagel at the body shop and works good, simply need to change the tip to accept the rivet and have the body panel ground to bare metal for the tool to work.
another option if you have access to the back side of the panel you could find some small "T" bolts or trim fasteners. drill a hole for the stud to fit through and put a nut on the back side.
Some Auto's are done this way OEM.
I like the looks of the vinyl top also.
 
I appreciate it Rodney, I might call some body shops around here and see if I can find somebody who has the welder and rivets.
 
you can also get a special nipple for a pop rivet gun and use pop rivets.

to be able to use the stud welder the metal around the area where the stud goes has to be bare metal.. no filler, paint or primer for the welder to work correctly.
 
Eastwood sells a stud welder, trim rivets and tip for the welder. Worst case, borrow or rent the welder, and buy the tip($20.99) and and rivet($19.99). I've gotta weld the rivets for the trim on mine, but I've got the H&S stud welder, Eastwood's looks the same, I've just gotta buy the tip and rivets. The stud welder system works great on dents. I wouldn't use pop rivet for the trim, just asking for water to get in the quarter and rust everything out. Just my 2 cents.
 
I agree with water in the holes is a bad idea. I will end up sanding to metal before I instal the new studs. Ive been eager to get the outside done so i can start the new power plant.
 
I am getting ready to fill the holes with a welder, but I want to make sure the holes farthest to the rear of the car / vinyl need to be filled. IE, the one at the top of the screen? I have the same hole on both sides and I want to make sure its not a factory thing.
IMG_1766.jpg
 
Back
Top