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Welding Issues

Coronet 14

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I haven't been on here in a while. I'm back and have a question. I'm having issues with welding with my Eastwood Mig 175. I'm getting pin holes in my welds. l made a couple of the holes larger when I tried to fix them. Didn't really have an issue with pin holes in my welds when I grinded them down the last time I welded on the car. I'm welding 20 gauge new sheetmetal in the car. Spot is lower part of sail panel where it joins the quarterpanel Wire is .025 new tip and nozzle. I've tried to run .023 wire couldn't get it to run in machine. I've raised the gas to 20 and still get pin holes when I grind the welds down Right now I've dialed the voltage to C. Wire speed is at 4 1/2 I'm getting Balder trying to figure this out. No breeze in Garage Thanks
 
Are you actually getting gas out of the tip?
Sounds like your not.
 
Try running a bead on a clean piece of sheeting at the work bench. Like stated, listen at the nozzle for a good hissing sound of gas coming through. Try cranking the gas up to 40 and see if it makes a difference.

Contaminates in the weld such as oil or rust can cause porosity. Once you have porosity you almost have to grind it completely out before running a bead back over that section again.

What gas are you useing?
 
I am wondering about the gas solenoid not working. Who makes the eastwood welder?
 
When you fill the hole reach across it with the wire to the edge, don't try to weld straight down onto the edge. short taps cool a second then again, working back to yourself.
 
The most likely cause of pinholes --assuming the metal is clean-- is lack of adequate gas coverage. It's tough to control with solid core wire welding on light gauge metal with open gaps.
Once a weld develops pin holes it is very hard to repair by welding over it. Grinding the weld out fully can be a PIA but sometimes the only way back.
I have spent many hours in a big shop on heavy weldments that had "pinholes" in the welds. It can be frustrating to say the least to work hours grinding for a clean start and see pin holes happen again because of not grinding enough to get back to good metal.
 
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show a picture of the guage on the Bottle , turned on .the setting on the mig.. . and what you are welding ... metals got any filler, brass, lead.. any pin hole rust .. it will weld aweful..

Ive encountered with even the little lincolns.. if the wire feed hose is kinked at the front of the unit it will sputter the wire , and kink the line starving the gas.
 
When I pull the trigger I can hear gas. I replaced the diffuser Im gonna take it apart. Will let you know what I find Thanks Guys
 
I once had a problem with pitting on mild steel from my home tig welder. Every test I could think of led me to test a friends bottle of argon.
That was it---I had a contaminated bottle of argon. (very rare).
My friend and I tested our two bottles of gas on both of our machines several times out of curiosity and showed it to be true. My bottle was bad/not all argon.
The gas company laughed at us but the new bottle I got from them was good.:rolleyes:

One would expect proper filling and mixing of gasses would be correct and meticulous.
It is for "certified" bottles but at cost.
 
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I once had a problem with pitting on mild steel from my home tig welder. Every test I could think of led me to test a friends bottle of argon.
That was it---I had a contaminated bottle of argon. (very rare).
My friend and I tested our two bottles of gas on both of our machines several times out of curiosity and showed it to be true. My bottle was bad/not all argon.
The gas company laughed at us but the new bottle I got from them was good.:rolleyes:

One would expect proper filling and mixing of gasses would be correct and meticulous.
It is for "certified" bottles but at cost.

We had a batch of 75/25 come in the shop one week and it ran like crap! As each welder changed his bottle to this shipment they had the same problem. The boss said we were crazy. The supplier said we were crazy. I noticed that this batch of cylinders didn't have roller marks on them like I've seen in past shipments. I removed my bottle, laid it on the floor and rolled it down through the shop. Hooked it back up and it ran considerably better. Told the boss, he called the supplier and they admitted that their roller machine had broke. Numbskulls sent us the gas anyway knowing damn well it wouldn't be any good.

Mixed gas in a cylinder has to be rolled, one direction for 20 minutes. After a certain amount of time it will separate again.

If you have a siphon tube in your cylinder, they won't roll it. The gasses will mix as they enter the tube providing the supplier filled it correctly.
 
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Haven't found an issue with the gas feed yet But I did find an issue with the roller. It has pits and rust spots I will have to get a new one and go from there.
Also going to get a new bottle I've been getting my gas at Airgas in New Port Richey Florida Maybe I will try another place.
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You can just polish the rollers with a fine scotch brite pad. Make sure your wire hasn't started to rust. It will if the humidity has been right. Then the rust comes off in your liner. If your bottle has sat for a long time you can roll it like I mentioned in my last post.

Also if you are welding two pieces of metal together and one or both have paint or undercoating on the back side, the smoke from the back will get into your bead as you're welding and play havoc, causing the porosity.
 
got a picture of the front of the machine? does the wire bind at the roller?
 
I'm going to try all of these suggestions Thanks Guys When I get a full Cylinder from Airgas they just set it outside and i give them my old one. Didn't know about the rolling of the cylinder
The cylinders are on a rack. The Bottles look well used. I will work more on this tomorrow. Happy New Year to all
 
Unfortunately may be the old metal must go slow and just stitch and move to other spots that old metal is a pain there are contaminants in that old stuff making it very hard to weld constantly changing heat settings in different spots and compensating is required you will get used to it and soon be a pro once you adapt
 
Update Sorry I haven't posted an update yet. Been sick since last week. Well I got a new Gas Bottle I dicided to take the Nozzle off just to check the gas and see If It was feeding. Found that the spring inside the cable is riding up into the diffuser and blocking the gas holes. When the cable is moved around. It looks like I will have to get another Trigger cable. I also have to work on my technique a bit

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Update Sorry I haven't posted an update yet. Been sick since last week. Well I got a new Gas Bottle I dicided to take the Nozzle off just to check the gas and see If It was feeding. Found that the spring inside the cable is riding up into the diffuser and blocking the gas holes. When the cable is moved around. It looks like I will have to get another Trigger cable. I also have to work on my technique a bit

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You don't need to do that. The gas comes into the nozzle around the outside of the cable. It shouldn't be blocking the flow even though it's in there. Put it back together and try it again.

In other words, it's supposed to be in there like that.
 
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l cut out the patch panel this weekend. Will start over making a new patch later this week. I will dial my voltage down and try to just do little tacks at a time. Will post some pics when I have tacked it in. I appreciate all the help on this.
 
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