Where can the tail light bulb socket housings be found for a 73 Coronet?

[fullmetaljacket]

My bulb sockets are frozen shut with rust and the spring board contacts inside are just not responding to allow the bulbs to engage and lock on their prongs. Does anyone sell these sockets individually to be remounted on the main housings?

 

[RSMS]

Just as suggestion as I’m not looking at them to possibly give the best option but, if you took the sockets out and soaked them for several hours in cheap white vinegar it would probably remove the corrosion to make better contact points. I’m not sure if that was your actual issue or not but if so, might be worth a try, just make sure you give them a good water flush afterwards

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The problem is there is not a perfect replacement for them, no matter if pot metal or plastic housing both are assembled the same, clamped to the housing. The advantage of the pot metal housing is there are more replacement options being chassis grounded requiring just two wires for both leads (low and high filaments) and no wire for ground to the chassis like plastic requires (straight replacement made by unobtanium)

There are good replacement options available being spring hold to the housing by a crown shaped spring. Mostly sure some trimming required to the housing to fit on them.

There are pieces available with weatherproof boots which would be the best for these models

Will search and post.


HOWEVER! I’d try to refresh the ones still on car… cleaning, lubricating.

As far the spring base into the socket is still safe most of them are still usable after some mantenience.

Inners (points with leads, roundbase and spring) are also available to service the existant socket thought!

https://ebay.io/m/jTMiwI

 

[fullmetaljacket]

The problem is there is not a perfect replacement for them, no matter if pot metal or plastic housing both are assembled the same, clamped to the housing. The advantage of the pot metal housing is there are more replacement options being chassis grounded requiring just two wires for both leads (low and high filaments) and no wire for ground to the chassis like plastic requires (straight replacement made by unobtanium)

There are good replacement options available being spring hold to the housing by a crown shaped spring. Mostly sure some trimming required to the housing to fit on them.

There are pieces available with weatherproof boots which would be the best for these models

Will search and post.

Much appreciated. I would even opt for an NOS housing or NOS sockets to replace this corroded mess. Funny enough, the rest of the car is solid.
Right now, I can't drive it because I have no way of installing new tail light bulbs without breaking them and tearing my hand open with glass.
My '65 has those crown shaped snap in sockets, why didn't they just include that set up in the new designs?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Just edited my previous reply adding another idea to get mantenienced your existant sockets.

About your problem… break the bulb, twist and pull out the bulb base with plyers… bulbs are available everywhere. Try to save the socket which is the important here. That’s my advice. I have made it. Easy to do. Good deep cleaning and sandpaper or brush wheel with a dremel

I’d say in most of the cases, the sockets are still useable after a good mantenience. As I mentioned after my edited reply, as far the spring and the round board where points are hold are not broken you are good to go and pretty sure you will be good.

And if they are shot, try the service parts I posted the link from eBay. Several sellers got them, just posted the eBay link for simplicity showing a set for 1157 and 1156 bulbs on one link… sure need 4 for 1157. Maybe your local parts got these at the HELP section.

There is NO NOS sockets. They were pressed into the housing at housings factory, not even at assembly plant. Plant got the tail light housings already made for assembly by the manufacturer, pretty sure a 3rd part contractor under Chrysler supervision.

Those spring hold sockets were tipically used on tail lights being serviced/replaced from trunk with tail lights attached to the body. Not even remove lense to replace, but your car is not. You can’t replace the bulb from back like your 65. Hence why sockets are pressed into the housing and get weatherproof boots.

However the bulb service system from back of the housing (trunk) are tipically bigger diameter to allow the bulb head going throught the tail light hole. The generic replacement I meant is smaller just to fit on existant hole (More less).

(Just noticed you got a link on your thread at the electric board section where I posted some replacement options long time ago)

 

[Sixpactogo]

My bulb sockets are frozen shut with rust and the spring board contacts inside are just not responding to allow the bulbs to engage and lock on their prongs. Does anyone sell these sockets individually to be remounted on the main housings?

View attachment 2071603

View attachment 2071604

There are not many options for you. Either find housings in better shape or try and clean the rust out of yours. You could try spraying some Rust dessolver gel in the sockets and soak for a few hours. Clean them with a battery post wire brush and hot water. Repeat a few times. I have had some luck with that. Another method I like is long term soaking in a Molasses bath. I mix a gallon of molasses and 7 gallons of water in a large tote with a cover. Toss rusty parts in and let it soak for a month. When you rinse it with hot water afterwards the rust will all be gone. If you use the molasses bath treatment, it should clean some of that oxidation off of the housing. You can then scuff the area around the bulb and spray some reflective chrome paint in there before putting it back together. Good Luck. It takes time and patience.
PS: I have had good luck with removing the bulbs by breaking the glass and poking a length of 1/2" wooden dowel in the base to remove them.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Just edited my previous reply adding another idea to get mantenienced your existant sockets.

About your problem… break the bulb, twist and pull out the bulb base with plyers… bulbs are available everywhere. Try to save the socket which is the important here. That’s my advice. I have made it. Easy to do. Good deep cleaning and sandpaper or brush wheel with a dremel

I’d say in most of the cases, the sockets are still useable after a good mantenience. As I mentioned after my edited reply, as far the spring and the round board where points are hold are not broken you are good to go and pretty sure you will be good.

And if they are shot, try the service parts I posted the link from eBay. Several sellers got them, just posted the eBay link for simplicity showing a set for 1157 and 1156 bulbs on one link… sure need 4 for 1157. Maybe your local parts got these at the HELP section.

There is NO NOS sockets. They were pressed into the housing at housings factory, not even at assembly plant. Plant got the tail light housings already made for assembly by the manufacturer, pretty sure a 3rd part contractor under Chrysler supervision.

Those spring hold sockets were tipically used on tail lights being serviced/replaced from trunk with tail lights attached to the body. Not even remove lense to replace, but your car is not. You can’t replace the bulb from back like your 65. Hence why sockets are pressed into the housing and get weatherproof boots.

However the bulb service system from back of the housing (trunk) are tipically bigger diameter to allow the bulb head going throught the tail light hole. The generic replacement I meant is smaller just to fit on existant hole (More less).

(Just noticed you got a link on your thread at the electric board section where I posted some replacement options long time ago)

Thank you Nach. You're helping to clarify things. I'll get it done somehow by using some or all of these tactics.