Where to attach engine hoist with no IM?

[kaj750]

IM is off the car, so can't use a plate. I'm planning to use two of the bolts from the IM. I actually only need to disconnect the driver-side mount so that side of the engine will drop down an inch or two. Passenger side can stay, assuming driver-side will drop enough.
Am I correct in thinking the IM bolts would support the?
If so and I have a worst-case scenario situation where I end up lowering the entire engine the couple of inches, would they also support the full weight while still attached to the trans?

 

[69Bee]

Yes, it has been done that way many times, but make sure you use grade 8 3/8"-16 bolts long enough to engage the ENTIRE thread length, and don't forget to add the width of the chain and washer. You didn't say which engine, so get an approximate weight, divide by 2, then research the tinsel and sheer strength for a grade 8 bolt for 3/8"-16 and you will find that you have plenty of leeway...

 

[Don Frelier]

I would just add that if you have aluminum heads be sure to put hardened washers under the chain so it doesn't damage the head surface where the intake normally rests.
You can also use the bolt holes in the front/rear of the heads if that's more convenient.

 

[69Bee]

I would just add that if you have aluminum heads be sure to put hardened washers under the chain so it doesn't damage the head surface where the intake normally rests.
You can also use the bolt holes in the front/rear of the heads if that's more convenient.

I usually try not to use them as it tends to twist the load as your attaching points are diagonally opposed.

 

[gkent]

I usually try not to use them as it tends to twist the load as your attaching points are diagonally opposed.

You're probably one in a million !!!

 

[dvw]

I always put my race engine in w/o the intake. It's to big and gets in the way. Bolt in at the heads at the ends. More meat around those holes than anywhere. When you balance the hook in the right spot it picks up pretty level. This time a 2nd strap was added in th eintake bolts. That worked even betterIt goes in with the motor plate and entire front dress installed. I just use my best helper.
Doug

 

[kaj750]

Yes, it has been done that way many times, but make sure you use grade 8 3/8"-16 bolts long enough to engage the ENTIRE thread length, and don't forget to add the width of the chain and washer. You didn't say which engine, so get an approximate weight, divide by 2, then research the tinsel and sheer strength for a grade 8 bolt for 3/8"-16 and you will find that you have plenty of leeway...

Excellent points!.
It's a 440, so ....she heavy.

 

[kaj750]

I would just add that if you have aluminum heads be sure to put hardened washers under the chain so it doesn't damage the head surface where the intake normally rests.
You can also use the bolt holes in the front/rear of the heads if that's more convenient.

Well, crap. The cylinder heads are no longer on the car.
Short block and trans only.
Looks like I'll have to wait until I install the new cylinder heads, which are aluminum.
I'm REALLY hoping the engine drops enough with just the one mount removed.
I'm on my way outside, right now, to give it a look. I'll let you guys know how it goes!

Thank you!

 

[33 IMP]

Heads off? Easy! Pick any two head bolt holes you like. Even two on the same bank if you want to just raise/lower one side.

 

[33 IMP]

Well, crap. The cylinder heads are no longer on the car.
Short block and trans only.
Looks like I'll have to wait until I install the new cylinder heads, which are aluminum.
I'm REALLY hoping the engine drops enough with just the one mount removed.
I'm on my way outside, right now, to give it a look. I'll let you guys know how it goes!

Thank you!

Why are you trying to DROP the engine? Header installation?

 

[kaj750]

Heads off? Easy! Pick any two head bolt holes you like. Even two on the same bank if you want to just raise/lower one side.

Why are you trying to DROP the engine? Header installation?

Well, NOW, I started to install the heads so that I could use the IM bolts, since I just got everything I needed from the hardware store and I feel those holes will be easier for me to deal with given my hoist setup. I seem to be moving pretty fast all of a sudden LOL.
I only have one head on, not fully torqued, so can remove it, if it's safter to use head bolts/holes for now. I only started putting heads on to test my pushrod length.
So, I can really go either way. The head gasket is the one from 440 source, so I'm 99% sure it's fine to R&R the head, real quick. Otherwise, I can torque it down and install the other.

I need the driver's side of the engine to drop for enough for me to R&R the oil pickup (it currently hits the K member or engine mount.. I forget which) and so I can get this f**king oil pan back on LOL.

 

[Daves69]

Do I have this right?
You are trying to raise the driver side engine enough to remove the insulator and bracket (engine mount) so you can lower the driver side engine and gain enough swing to remove the oil pickup?

Maybe try a jack under the block near the trans?

 

[kaj750]

Do I have this right?
You are trying to raise the driver side engine enough to remove the insulator and bracket (engine mount) so you can lower the driver side engine and gain enough swing to remove the oil pickup?

Maybe try a jack under the block near the trans?

View attachment 2054574

That is exactly it, plus the oil pan. I'm hoping to also have enough room to rotate the pan over the pickup and into place. My entire build is stuck on the pickup/pan issue.
I should only need it to drop 1-2 inches.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

I used these engine brackets which are made for lifting your engine properly and installing it without concern of breaking anything. I bought mine from ECS Automotive for $88.50. Bolt right onto the block.

 

[Don selleck]

I always put my race engine in w/o the intake. It's to big and gets in the way. Bolt in at the heads at the ends. More meat around those holes than anywhere. When you balance the hook in the right spot it picks up pretty level. This time a 2nd strap was added in th eintake bolts. That worked even betterIt goes in with the motor plate and entire front dress installed. I just use my best helper.
Doug

View attachment 2050259

View attachment 2050260

View attachment 2050261

hmm, I've always pictured you with shorter hair,

 

[Daves69]

Bolt right onto the block.

Those look fairly easy to fab. Are they 1/4" thick?
Looks like you have 'em bolted to the heads. Are the extra holes for different bosses on the engine?

 

[kaj750]

I used these engine brackets which are made for lifting your engine properly and installing it without concern of breaking anything. I bought mine from ECS Automotive for $88.50. Bolt right onto the block.

I like those. Simple and elegant solution with lots of options. I can probably cut some from 1/4" flat stock. I like the idea of the lifting on the bolts in shear vs partially pulling on threads. A great option if I decide to install the heads first.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Those look fairly easy to fab. Are they 1/4" thick?
Looks like you have 'em bolted to the heads. Are the extra holes for different bosses on the engine?

I never measured the thickness but I would agree with your estimate of 1/4" thick. Yes they are bolted to the heads. On my engine the extra threaded holes are already on the heads to accept the bolt. I guess if you are a machinist with the proper equipment, you could make them.

 

[dvw]

hmm, I've always pictured you with shorter hair,

At 71, shes still always willing to come out and help.
Doug

 

[Don selleck]

she's bad ***, you're a lucky man.