Where to get good 1/2 20 wheel studs and lug nuts

[440 PHIXX]

So... I purchased 10 1/2” 20 lugs and right hand thread lug nuts from Rock Auto. They sent Dorman brand. Chinese ****. They don’t go together by hand, and when I chased one of the lug nuts it wobbles as it goes on. Clearly incorrectly threaded from the factory. The lugs also measure .625 and the hub is .625. The originals that I had to hole saw the swedge measure .640. Anyway... what do you guys use? Thanks!

 

[padam]

Moroso

 

[440 PHIXX]

Moroso

That’s what I’m thinking. They are for the front though. I know they make the extended ones for NHRA approval. I guess the front drum are the same as the rear axle.

 

[padam]

You should be able to find specs on Summit web site

 

[440 PHIXX]

You should be able to find specs on Summit web site

The ones I’m seeing are .685 diameter in the knurled end. So too big. I’ll have to keep looking.

 

[33 IMP]

That’s what I’m thinking. They are for the front though. I know they make the extended ones for NHRA approval. I guess the front drum are the same as the rear axle.

As far as I know, front drum studs are different from rear studs, which are also different from front disc studs. So, three different studs. EDIT: Oops, forgot about LH threads on the driver side, so SIX different studs.
Then the next trick is finding LONGER studs, for those that want to run mag wheel with thicker centers safely, and finding one with the right knurl.....
.675 might be right for one of the fronts, I think the drum version.

 

[440 PHIXX]

As far as I know, front drum studs are different from rear studs, which are also different from front disc studs. So, three different studs. EDIT: Oops, forgot about LH threads on the driver side, so SIX different studs.
Then the next trick is finding LONGER studs, for those that want to run mag wheel with thicker centers safely, and finding one with the right knurl.....
.675 might be right for one of the fronts, I think the drum version.

I’m switching to right hand threads, that will make it easier! But the register in the hub is .625. I had to ruin the original ones to get them out. They tapped out after I hole sawed the swedge. The originals measure.640 at the knurl, but that was pressed in I guess. I never dealt with factory swedged drums. I guess all the ones I worked on were already changed out. I’m using the stock steel wheels.

 

[33 IMP]

Since the new software install, there are now related threads at the bottom. See Moparedtn's thread about clarification on studs.
(And frankly, I'm still confused about what is what. Luckily, everything I have that I want long studs in, already has them, lol).

 

[440 PHIXX]

Since the new software install, there are now related threads at the bottom. See Moparedtn's thread about clarification on studs.
(And frankly, I'm still confused about what is what. Luckily, everything I have that I want long studs in, already has them, lol).

Wow. That’s even more confusing. It looks like the Dorman ones I bought are to drop in and then be swedged in place. I work in a machine shop, and we don’t have the tool to do that. I’m looking for the way it was done in the 80’s in some corner garage. I thought the knurled part would be slightly bigger than 5/8, .625. Something like .640 to .650. I see they had a part # in that tread for one like that. I’ll have to see if I can get it. I never knew this would be such an issue.

 

[440 PHIXX]

Here’s a pic of the original next to the Dorman. I cut away the swedge on the OG.

 

[440 PHIXX]

I didn’t test fit it with the drum, but it looks like it might bottom out. Love the Chinese quality of the thing.

 

[33 IMP]

Is that really a Dorman part, or a Chinese counterfeit? It looks like the extra length of the knurl would be a problem. If the quality were good, you could probably machine them to work..... but I doubt I would bother.
The first thing I would do is measure the actual holes in the hub and axle (disc or drum) and look for a stud with .005 to .015 larger knurl.
I did have to deal with some of this on my (fast) foreign car. Previous owner had hubs redrilled from four to five stud pattern, and the studs had stripped the holes. I couldn't find studs a few thousandths bigger so..... spot welds solved the problem. I would avoid that solution if possible.

 

[440 PHIXX]

Is that really a Dorman part, or a Chinese counterfeit? It looks like the extra length of the knurl would be a problem. If the quality were good, you could probably machine them to work..... but I doubt I would bother.
The first thing I would do is measure the actual holes in the hub and axle (disc or drum) and look for a stud with .005 to .015 larger knurl.
I did have to deal with some of this on my (fast) foreign car. Previous owner had hubs redrilled from four to five stud pattern, and the studs had stripped the holes. I couldn't find studs a few thousandths bigger so..... spot welds solved the problem. I would avoid that solution if possible.

The holes in the hub are right at .625 5/8”. The studs are about the same and pretty much can be pushed in almost all the way by hand. I guess I could use the 262 red locktite which would work with an impact gun. I bet changing a tire along side the road might be a problem. In the other thread they have a part # for a .65 knurl. I’m going to look into that. What is strange is that I bought these from Rock Auto. They sold me 10 in a Dorman box. And it recommended a Lisle stud installation tool. I purchased that as well thinking the knurl would be about .64. I did my ‘68 Satellite wagon about 12 years ago, and had to replace a front drum. I just tapped out the lugs, and switched the hub and lugs to the new drum. Someone must have replaced them in the past on that car, because they weren’t swedged, just press fit.

 

[Ray70Chrg]

Here’s a pic of the original next to the Dorman. I cut away the swedge on the OG. View attachment 1296482

just replaced my front left wheel with Dorman 610-132, they look exactly like the old one pictured here. The ones that came out were exactly the same also. The car had Crager wheels and no problem with length. This part # is for the front wheels w/ 11" drum brakes. I wanted to go to all r/h treads. I change the rear ones years ago and they are, at least shorter. Check the Dorman site for specs. Hope this helps and part#.

 

[440 PHIXX]

****. I just ordered the 610-122. They seem to be what I need looking at the specs. But the .65 knurled diameter might be too big and need to be hit with a sander.

just replaced my front left wheel with Dorman 610-132, they look exactly like the old one pictured here. The ones that came out were exactly the same also. The car had Crager wheels and no problem with length. This part # is for the front wheels w/ 11" drum brakes. I wanted to go to all r/h treads. I change the rear ones years ago and they are, at least shorter. Check the Dorman site for specs. Hope this helps and part#.

 

[440 PHIXX]

I think the only difference is the length. The 610-122 is 1 9/16, and the 610-132 is 1 5/8.

 

[Ray70Chrg]

The 610-122 is for 10" front brake drums. If that's what you have, you're all right. I have 11".

 

[khryslerkid]

I had a hard time finding the right studs. I needed a 1/2 x 20 thread, .625 diameter knurl, 1/2" long knurl. I found a couple listed here and there but they weren't available. So I got the next best thing and machined them to size.

Some of the studs fit tight, some went in tight but were loose when seated. Some of this comes from the fact that the original studs were swedged and the holes aren't perfectly round. The other factor is the knurled part of the stud isn't consistent. (See pics)

So fire up the Welder!

 

[MIKESPOLARA]

Is that really a Dorman part, or a Chinese counterfeit? It looks like the extra length of the knurl would be a problem. If the quality were good, you could probably machine them to work..... but I doubt I would bother.
The first thing I would do is measure the actual holes in the hub and axle (disc or drum) and look for a stud with .005 to .015 larger knurl.
I did have to deal with some of this on my (fast) foreign car. Previous owner had hubs redrilled from four to five stud pattern, and the studs had stripped the holes. I couldn't find studs a few thousandths bigger so..... spot welds solved the problem. I would avoid that solution if possible.

.005 is a little on the small end .012 is a good figure, roughly. The problem is you have to make everything work, knurl dia, shoulder ht, length of threads. You can't always find the exact right ones. It's common to get everything as needed but have the knurl too large so it's time to drill out the hole BUT usually drills aren't the right diameter either so I end up having to buy reams since they come in .001" increments, order the size you need. I use to do a lot when making custom type disc brake kits

 

[440 PHIXX]

.005 is a little on the small end .012 is a good figure, roughly. The problem is you have to make everything work, knurl dia, shoulder ht, length of threads. You can't always find the exact right ones. It's common to get everything as needed but have the knurl too large so it's time to drill out the hole BUT usually drills aren't the right diameter either so I end up having to buy reams since they come in .001" increments, order the size you need. I use to do a lot when making custom type disc brake kits

The ones I just ordered are .65 it says. I’ll have to see what they actually are when They come in. The hub is .625 on the small side. The holes are wider where the swedge was. I guess I’ll have to ream them to .638 or so. .012 does sound right. .006 a side. This easy brake job turned into a major job.