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Which Driveshaft to Buy? 1966 Dodge Coronet 440/727

philcoradio

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Hey all,

I’m looking to buy a new driveshaft for my 1966 Dodge Coronet from Mancini Racing and I’m not too sure of which one to order. The car has a 1978 440 big block, a 1972 727 transmission, and an 8 3/4 rear end. Does anyone know which driveshaft I should order? I believe that the factory driveshaft for this set up should be roughly 52” long when measured from center to center of each U-joint. Not too sure of the diameter I need. Car was originally a 273/904 car. 8 3/4 rear I believe is original to the car. I would like to get a driveshaft with the slip yoke and U-joints already pre installed if possible, but it wouldn’t be a deal breaker if it wasn’t. Also, if I do buy a driveshaft, would I also need a new yoke on the rear end? If so, which yoke do I buy? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris
 
I've always gone to a driveline shop. 5" aluminum 1 piece for my Cummins was much cheaper from a shop n fit perfect. The heavy duty U-joint billet end one for my '67 was about the same as ordering but I know it fits perfect.
 
I ordered my Strange 3" driveshaft through Dr Diff. with upgraded 1350 U joints.
I followed the measuring instructions on the site and it fits perfect.
Note that upgrading the U joints required a new pinion yoke so I took the opportunity to replace the crush sleeve in my 489 to an eliminator.
 
Hey all,

I’m looking to buy a new driveshaft for my 1966 Dodge Coronet from Mancini Racing and I’m not too sure of which one to order. The car has a 1978 440 big block, a 1972 727 transmission, and an 8 3/4 rear end. Does anyone know which driveshaft I should order? I believe that the factory driveshaft for this set up should be roughly 52” long when measured from center to center of each U-joint. Not too sure of the diameter I need. Car was originally a 273/904 car. 8 3/4 rear I believe is original to the car. I would like to get a driveshaft with the slip yoke and U-joints already pre installed if possible, but it wouldn’t be a deal breaker if it wasn’t. Also, if I do buy a driveshaft, would I also need a new yoke on the rear end? If so, which yoke do I buy? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris
Call Mancini and ask. They know their product and you know your car, so that will keep you from getting the wrong one.
 
Hey all,

I’m looking to buy a new driveshaft for my 1966 Dodge Coronet from Mancini Racing and I’m not too sure of which one to order. The car has a 1978 440 big block, a 1972 727 transmission, and an 8 3/4 rear end. Does anyone know which driveshaft I should order? I believe that the factory driveshaft for this set up should be roughly 52” long when measured from center to center of each U-joint. Not too sure of the diameter I need. Car was originally a 273/904 car. 8 3/4 rear I believe is original to the car. I would like to get a driveshaft with the slip yoke and U-joints already pre installed if possible, but it wouldn’t be a deal breaker if it wasn’t. Also, if I do buy a driveshaft, would I also need a new yoke on the rear end? If so, which yoke do I buy? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris
I would go to farmingdale drive shaft in farmingdale nj. The guy who owns the place does excellent work and will properly advise you.
 
Me, I'd break out a tape measure and measure the distance between the two. Then I'd contact a local driveshaft shop and have them build it, with good U-joints.
I have a spare one out of my '64 wagon, and another from my Duster race car, but I'm clear across the country in northern Idaho.
 
How much power and usage?
A stock one can handle a fair bit.
 
Talk to Cass (Dr Diff). He's good people and will treat you right and not sell you something you don't need.
 
Hey all,

I’m looking to buy a new driveshaft for my 1966 Dodge Coronet from Mancini Racing and I’m not too sure of which one to order. The car has a 1978 440 big block, a 1972 727 transmission, and an 8 3/4 rear end. Does anyone know which driveshaft I should order? I believe that the factory driveshaft for this set up should be roughly 52” long when measured from center to center of each U-joint. Not too sure of the diameter I need. Car was originally a 273/904 car. 8 3/4 rear I believe is original to the car. I would like to get a driveshaft with the slip yoke and U-joints already pre installed if possible, but it wouldn’t be a deal breaker if it wasn’t. Also, if I do buy a driveshaft, would I also need a new yoke on the rear end? If so, which yoke do I buy? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris
I used Denny's for my 512" 1965 coronet. Good for 1200 HP I'm pretty sure it's thick wall aluminum.
 
I ordered my Strange 3" driveshaft through Dr Diff. with upgraded 1350 U joints.
I followed the measuring instructions on the site and it fits perfect.
Note that upgrading the U joints required a new pinion yoke so I took the opportunity to replace the crush sleeve in my 489 to an eliminator.
Did the same with my 67 belvedere big block, good stuff from DR.Diff.
 
I have bought several Strange driveshafts from Dr. Diff. I get them fully made up with 1350 Spicer joints, but you can custom order whatever you want. They are nice. Only complaint if any I would have is that Strange won't paint or powder coat them. They come bare steel.
 
I have bought several Strange driveshafts from Dr. Diff. I get them fully made up with 1350 Spicer joints, but you can custom order whatever you want. They are nice. Only complaint if any I would have is that Strange won't paint or powder coat them. They come bare steel.
VHT chassis and roll bar paint to the rescue!!
 
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