Who has an oil pan that does NOT leak ???

[Yatzee]

I am getting just as tired of a leaky oil pan as I am hearing people say "They all do that." 440 based 493, currently with a 6 quart pan.
What the heck, man ?? I have had a few different pans on the car, different bolts, used no washers, flat washers, lock washers...I have always used the Mopar Performance windage tray & gasket sandwich: 2 gaskets and steel tray. I don't officially "torque" the oil pan bolts but do tighten them just until the gaskets squish a bit, just like I've done with every other engine. This one weeps oil though, especially after I've been out romping on it. I do have a working PCV in it.The rear main is dry, The left side too. I checked the screw in plug under the fuel pump and it is dry there. I get oil dripping off of some bolts but not others. I have always installed the bolts in dry, no sealant.
I have heard of some drastic measures....Ever heard of "The Right Stuff" ?? I have never used it but I hear that it is some super sealing cement-like gasket sealer. That would be great if I never planned on removing the pan again. I've read that it sets up so hard that stamped steel stuff like valve covers, timing covers and oil pans get bent when you try to remove them later.
Is there a better way to go? I want to retain some type of windage tray. I did buy one of those plastic windage trays from Jeg's, the self sealing ones that are similar to those plastic transmission pan gaskets. What has been your experience with them? Good?
Finally....I have always used a high volume oil pump in my engines. Some claim it is overkill and costs power, that the stock pump puts out enough volume and pressure. What is your opinion on this?
Thank you for any help that you can give.

A regular pump that's ported will suffice for oil pressure all the way to 90 psi. Screw the whole gasket idea for the pan and tray and use The Right Stuff only. Apply it to the windage tray and use short bolts to hold it too the block for 20 minutes. Razor off any outside seepage. This stuff cures in five minutes with the absence of air. Apply to the pan encircling the bolt holes and dip stick hole and bolt in in place with the original bolts being sure to torque to spec . Let cure for 20 minutes and you're good to go. The stuff's expensive but seals unbelieveably.

 

[dvw]

I use the generic $10 gaskets. Small bead of Ultra Grey (1/8") both sides. Fill the rear seal retainer cap bolt hole cavities. Some times the pan doesn't cover them completely. Make sure you haven't cracked the seal retainer bosses using a bolt that is too long and bottomed out. Now if you have a leak it is coming from a different location. Watch for bolts that are to long at the bottom of the stock timing cover. They will bottom and not clamp the cover to the block. Worn balancer hub/seal. Use a seal saver. Of course the rear seal retainer may be leaking. It may be pushed by the side seals off center. Use no seals, only RTV.. Corners of the valley tray. Many times the head gasket doesn't extend all the way to the head/block/intake corner. Add a little RTV to the upper corners of the head gasket before installing the heads. My motors do not leak a drop.
Doug

 

[69a100]

DODGE=Drips Oil Drops Grease Everywhere

 

[Glenwood]

I used the jegs windage tray/gasket. I filled the dimples in the stock pan with ultra black and made sure the bolt holes were flat. So far so good. The trans pan is another story though .

 

[threewood]

I set mine up to leak small quantities to keep the lower end on my engine and underside rust free. It's by design lol.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I use these gaskets, no leaks
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1834/overview/make/plymouth

I saved this link after reading the reviews. Some users have had to use pan studs or longer bolts, and some are using 2 of these because of 2 gasket surfaces in their setup, but 100% of the 9 reviews said NO LEAKS, NONE, EVER.
Thanks for the info. I will be getting this one you linked!

 

[Bill Monk]

I saved this link after reading the reviews. Some users have had to use pan studs or longer bolts, and some are using 2 of these because of 2 gasket surfaces in their setup, but 100% of the 9 reviews said NO LEAKS, NONE, EVER.
Thanks for the info. I will be getting this one you linked!

I use high tack on the pan side of the gasket

 

[Gpuller]

Maybe try a set of these?

http://arengineering.com/products/oil-pan-support-rails/

 

[Cranky]

Found a spreader kit on line and seems to have done the job.

I have a spreader for working on rear ends..... but what's the kit you are talking about?

A regular pump that's ported will suffice for oil pressure all the way to 90 psi. Screw the whole gasket idea for the pan and tray and use The Right Stuff only. Apply it to the windage tray and use short bolts to hold it too the block for 20 minutes. Razor off any outside seepage. This stuff cures in five minutes with the absence of air. Apply to the pan encircling the bolt holes and dip stick hole and bolt in in place with the original bolts being sure to torque to spec . Let cure for 20 minutes and you're good to go. The stuff's expensive but seals unbelieveably.

Dang....finally found someone that ports their oil pumps too!! Showed one to a buddy and he told me I was obsessive lol. On the oil pan, a buddy uses what he calls 'yellow death' which is just 3M weather strip adhesive....

DODGE=Drips Oil Drops Grease Everywhere

C'mon man.....have had plenty of Mopars that didn't drip. Years ago a neighbor that drove Ferd products came over and in a loud voice said "WOW, what do you use to keep your driveway so clean!?" Told him I don't drive Ford products. Pissed him off

 

[Kern Dog]

I have used Gaskasinch. I have used the 3M "Gorilla Snot" weatherstrip adhesive too.

 

[69a100]

Well cranky, my A-100 does the boat of them I mentioned, but I wouldn't have it any other way!

 

[Cranky]

Well cranky, my A-100 does the boat of them I mentioned, but I wouldn't have it any other way!

Had 2 A100's...both pickups and that's pretty much where I found out where the /6's leak. Do yours happen to have V8's in them? A buddy had a 100 with a 318 and that sucker hauled butt but it was a van....and yeah, we put it to good use!

 

[eldubb440]

my pan doesn't leak a drop...... might be cause it's on the shelf with the rest of my ****

 

[kiwigtx]

my pan doesn't leak a drop...... might be cause it's on the shelf with the rest of my ****

 

[69a100]

Mine a leanin tower-O-power from the rear main seal. You should see the back of van after a spin on the freeway. Hundreds of oil dots all over the back doors on the faded paint really highlights it.

 

[biomedtechguy]

my pan doesn't leak a drop...... might be cause it's on the shelf with the rest of my ****

Another post I'm glad I wasn't drinking something when I read it...

 

[Dennis H]

Watching too. Weeping, not leaking.

 

[Billccm]

I had the drips on the head of the pan bolts about 3/4 around the pan. The gasket looked like the previous installer had used two tubes of black silicone rubber. It was greasy and dirty around the pan.

I bought the Felpro 1834 on the recommendation of several people. About half the advice was to install dry, and the other half use (ultra copper, right stuff, permatex #2, etc, etc). I installed dry.

That eliminated the drips on the pan bolts, but I have a oh so slight seepage on the passenger side right where the gasket meets the timing chain cover. I've read on various forums that this could be the timing chain cover slightly bent, or the seal/gasket itself.

For now I will just live with it as I need some seat time in this car, but I guess the next step is pull the timing chain cover. One of my Mopar friends says to just live with it as it does not form a puddle. I'll wait and see for now.

Again, I do like the Felpro 1834. Really nice, thick, and the aluminum frame makes it easy to install.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Again, I do like the Felpro 1834. Really nice, thick, and the aluminum frame makes it easy to install.

Another vote for the 1834!

 

[BSB67]

No gaskets here, just RTV