Will not start warm
- Thread starter CtownChris
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If it has a hydraulic cam and stamped rockers then there is no valve lash. HOWEVER.....if the block and/or heads have been cut, then the pushrods are to long and could cause a problem. After having a set of 906s cut down to an 80cc chamber I needed pushrods that were 0.110" shorter than stock.
daredevil
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kinda where im going with this. if he has a solid cam and the lash is set too tight cold ,when hot it may be hard to crank from low compression and intake dillution. I noticed he said he had a lumpy cam.
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yup yup yup
Patrick
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Man your problem is simple, you didn't have it before you installed a parts store distributor.
Take the distributor back where you got it and exchange it. But this time make sure you check the reluctor before you install it. Or get your money back and reinstall your 440 distributor. The gap is to close as the parts expand from engine heat they are closing the gap to the point that the coil don't have time to recharge [same as points to close]. When you turn the distributor it moves the pickup a little further away giving the coil time to recharge and one good hot spark fires a cylinder, after that combustion heat let the weak spark fire the fuel. When mopar first came out with this system ever time we turned around at the dealer a car with the same problem was at the door. Because DIY guy thought he still had to change that thing with his plugs.
Take the distributor back where you got it and exchange it. But this time make sure you check the reluctor before you install it. Or get your money back and reinstall your 440 distributor. The gap is to close as the parts expand from engine heat they are closing the gap to the point that the coil don't have time to recharge [same as points to close]. When you turn the distributor it moves the pickup a little further away giving the coil time to recharge and one good hot spark fires a cylinder, after that combustion heat let the weak spark fire the fuel. When mopar first came out with this system ever time we turned around at the dealer a car with the same problem was at the door. Because DIY guy thought he still had to change that thing with his plugs.
CtownChris
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Well my mechanic is racing this weekend at Norwalk.
New Mopar Performance distributor awaits his skilled hands.
Had a wire harness for the ignition box to distributor sitting around so will put that on too.
Took the tape off the old wires last night and it was a nightmare of mismatched wires and crimped ends, exposed wire only covered by the electric tape.
May not have been my problem but it needs to go.
I've messed up enough on my own. It will wait until Ken is ready to lend me a hand on this.
Putting the old distributor back on was a thought. Since I had the parts store distributor on the shelf I let my brother hang on to it as his 440 distributor was having bushing problems.
Should have left mine alone! LOL I'd be driving my RR to Norwalk instead of my Stratus.
I have stamped rockers.
New Mopar Performance distributor awaits his skilled hands.
Had a wire harness for the ignition box to distributor sitting around so will put that on too.
Took the tape off the old wires last night and it was a nightmare of mismatched wires and crimped ends, exposed wire only covered by the electric tape.
May not have been my problem but it needs to go.
I've messed up enough on my own. It will wait until Ken is ready to lend me a hand on this.
Putting the old distributor back on was a thought. Since I had the parts store distributor on the shelf I let my brother hang on to it as his 440 distributor was having bushing problems.
Should have left mine alone! LOL I'd be driving my RR to Norwalk instead of my Stratus.
I have stamped rockers.
1badstroker
Well-Known Member
Like I mentioned at the beginning of this thread, Solder all connections and use heat shrink for the wires. I checked all the wires in the car and found that over the 40 plus years people just twisted the wires and taped them. I soldered them all and the car just seems to ask better. Good luck and hope you get it right soon, The car season is just about over for the year.
CtownChris
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It's been a long time but another buddy was able to come over and help.
New Mopar Performance distributor in.
New wire harness from chrome box in.
Fired up, I mean right now. Idled until it warmed up to 170 deg.
Shut off and restarted no problem.
Backed car out of garage and shut off and restarted again.
Ran the car on the street for 3-4 miles reached 50 mph.
Shut off in drive and would not restart.
Still not starting when warm. *$(%&@*^%$#
Any thoughts on this.
My battery in the trunk is new, not sure how old the cables are.
Can overly long cables rob starting power? Too much resistance?
After I ran the car it seems to turn over a little slower.
Thinking of putting the battery back in the engine bay.
Might I have a charging problem?
Just tired of chasing this gremlin.
New Mopar Performance distributor in.
New wire harness from chrome box in.
Fired up, I mean right now. Idled until it warmed up to 170 deg.
Shut off and restarted no problem.
Backed car out of garage and shut off and restarted again.
Ran the car on the street for 3-4 miles reached 50 mph.
Shut off in drive and would not restart.
Still not starting when warm. *$(%&@*^%$#
Any thoughts on this.
My battery in the trunk is new, not sure how old the cables are.
Can overly long cables rob starting power? Too much resistance?
After I ran the car it seems to turn over a little slower.
Thinking of putting the battery back in the engine bay.
Might I have a charging problem?
Just tired of chasing this gremlin.
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Does it just crank normal and not fire, or not crank fast enough to bust it off?
CtownChris
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Cranks pretty normal to me. Both buddies who stopped by thought is was not fast enough to "bust it off" as you stated.
Starter issue?
Starter issue?
godfatherofchry
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i didn't read all the threads but every orange box i ever had i had this same problem put one on from the parts store haven't had any trouble.i now run two boxes side by side one is the chrome one .just trying to help.
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Well IF it wasn't cranking normally, then I would start looking in the direction of the starter and associated parts. Had that problem with a Porsche I owned once. Turned out the main power cable to the starter was really corroded INSIDE the jacket right at the starter.
good thing it was a stick and very light (easy to push start):HappyNewYear:
I've run orange boxes in the past with no problem. I switched to a Standard Ignition brand LX-101 cause it was cheaper, and didn't skip a beat to 7000rpm. Never an issue with it either. If you don't have or want to buy another box to throw at it, then I'd hit an electronics parts store and get a can of freeze spray. (old electronic tech trick here) Then repeat your test until it doesn't start. Spray the box to cool it (and that large transistor) off and see what happens. If it starts, problem solved. If not, then I'd consider the coil.
good thing it was a stick and very light (easy to push start):HappyNewYear:
I've run orange boxes in the past with no problem. I switched to a Standard Ignition brand LX-101 cause it was cheaper, and didn't skip a beat to 7000rpm. Never an issue with it either. If you don't have or want to buy another box to throw at it, then I'd hit an electronics parts store and get a can of freeze spray. (old electronic tech trick here) Then repeat your test until it doesn't start. Spray the box to cool it (and that large transistor) off and see what happens. If it starts, problem solved. If not, then I'd consider the coil.
midnightrider1818
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that is weird. it sounds like to me when something warms up it kills your spark. after you drive it for awhile take a multimeter and check power at coil. ohm all your wires out. ohm your ballast resistor. etc. etc. look down in the carb and see if it is pumping fuel when you pump the throttle. check your spark and see if it weaker after she is warmed up. keep us updated on this thread this is interesting.
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