1968 Coronet 500 Project
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
Did you throw those shorts away
I thought I died. BOOM!!! And dust everywhere. My neighbor peeked around the corner, looked in and said, "anybody alive in there?" Lmao! Rattled windows down the block and possibly caused a miscarriage, no proof on that thoug.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Because I am still swirling on this... I really need this now that I put that damn 4-barrel EFI doodad on it....
http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/...-Carb-3-Piece-Kickdown-Linkage__34014B3P.aspx
I don't really like that Lokar cable that runs rearward before it comes forward....
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/the-lowdown-on-stock-torqueflite-kick-down-linkage/
I never understood the multi piece kick down mechanism. My 62 with the 318 has a one piece kick down rod. It goes from the carb straight to the arm, no linkage. Much simpler. And wow, that Is pricy for a kick down linkage.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Little bit of time to work in the 500 today. Got the tank wired up and dry fit along with the fuel line. After a lot of laying on my back staring I decided the way I am going to go is run two lines to the throttle body. Hacking in a LS regulator/filter to keep the return line short under the car is just not worth it. Too difficult to deal with. It looks like 2 - 3/8" lines can run side by side the entire way.
somebody should dust once in a while!!!!!
somebody should dust once in a while!!!!!
JimKueneman
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Now to decide where to put the O2 sensor....
Glenwood
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very nice!
Everything looks so nice and shiny, be a shame to drive it and get it dirty. I look under mine and think I could probably dirt track mine and it wouldn't look any dirtier than it is lol.
dieseldazzle
Well-Known Member
I didnt put the 02 sensor at noon position because the directions mentioned condensation or some crap plus I had no room. I emulated my old mustangs and camaros and put it at 2:30 position lol. Works great.
I ran a separate return on all the cars I did but yesterday I started on a 67 nova and I'm going to use the ls regulator on it
Keep up the nice work Jim and thanks for taking the time to share
I ran a separate return on all the cars I did but yesterday I started on a 67 nova and I'm going to use the ls regulator on it
Keep up the nice work Jim and thanks for taking the time to share
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Lots and lots of little things getting ready to drop the body back on the power train... next weekend?
Installed those fancy-dandy Italian dual ring hose clamps.. I like them....
I then buttoned up all the wiring on the engine, both the original and the FiTech items. I also installed my sexy color coordinated silicon vacuum hose from Silicon Intakes
http://www.siliconeintakes.com
Lastly I fixed my boo-boo of installing the cam bolts the wrong way around, the nuts go OUT
Installed those fancy-dandy Italian dual ring hose clamps.. I like them....
I then buttoned up all the wiring on the engine, both the original and the FiTech items. I also installed my sexy color coordinated silicon vacuum hose from Silicon Intakes
http://www.siliconeintakes.com
Lastly I fixed my boo-boo of installing the cam bolts the wrong way around, the nuts go OUT
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Time to turn my attention to the kick down problem of swapping to the EFI... Looking at the 2 Barrel the center of the throttle shaft to the center of the linkage pin is 1.375" with a rotation of not quite 90 degrees. It starts a few degrees before top dead center and ends a few degrees before 90 after TDC..
That said if I get the same rotation and offset from the throttle shaft in the EFI unit then the rearward displacement of the pin will be the same. I did buy the Holley Chrysler adapter when I ordered the EFI and it fit perfectly in the correct direction after a bit of modification to clear the throttle shaft..
After this modification the pin was 1.375" offset from the throttle shaft. What is a bit different is the overall rotation of the shaft is the same it starts at about 45 degrees BTDC and ends at about 45 degrees ATDC which mean the throw is the same but the center of the throw is moved forward about 1". This was too much for the original kick down rod.
So I decided to make my own after seeing how it was suppose to look on a 4 barrel 340/360. First I got a 5/16 fine thread bolt and cut off the head.
Next I bought some 1/4" steel rod (I wanted 5/16 but Ace did not have any). I ended up welding the bolt on the end of the rod at 90 degrees then cut the bolt off again to make the 5/16 stud to put in the pivot plate. After learning a bit more the better way is shown below.
The get nice bends grind about 1/2 through the bar so it bends nice and easy at the joint.
After it is at the correct angle just give it a bit of a weld to get the strength of the corner back
That said if I get the same rotation and offset from the throttle shaft in the EFI unit then the rearward displacement of the pin will be the same. I did buy the Holley Chrysler adapter when I ordered the EFI and it fit perfectly in the correct direction after a bit of modification to clear the throttle shaft..
After this modification the pin was 1.375" offset from the throttle shaft. What is a bit different is the overall rotation of the shaft is the same it starts at about 45 degrees BTDC and ends at about 45 degrees ATDC which mean the throw is the same but the center of the throw is moved forward about 1". This was too much for the original kick down rod.
So I decided to make my own after seeing how it was suppose to look on a 4 barrel 340/360. First I got a 5/16 fine thread bolt and cut off the head.
Next I bought some 1/4" steel rod (I wanted 5/16 but Ace did not have any). I ended up welding the bolt on the end of the rod at 90 degrees then cut the bolt off again to make the 5/16 stud to put in the pivot plate. After learning a bit more the better way is shown below.
The get nice bends grind about 1/2 through the bar so it bends nice and easy at the joint.
After it is at the correct angle just give it a bit of a weld to get the strength of the corner back
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JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Note this is the way to do the 90 degree bend IF you have 5/16 steel rod (I did not). Also weld a washer on the bend as well..
After you get the bends all correct mock it all up and cut the rod so you can weld the remaining bolt to the end with the threads. Sandblast paint and all done. Also I welded on a spring plate. In need to get another spring as I don't want to modify the originals.
Just like factory.
After you get the bends all correct mock it all up and cut the rod so you can weld the remaining bolt to the end with the threads. Sandblast paint and all done. Also I welded on a spring plate. In need to get another spring as I don't want to modify the originals.
Just like factory.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Little video of the kick down in operation. It is impossible to do this with one hand but it is running through its full travel from idle to WOT. The annoying noise if my camera focusing... turn the volume down . I have an idea how to handle the throttle but it will wait till I get it back in the car so I can keep it lined up.
. I have an idea how to handle the throttle but it will wait till I get it back in the car so I can keep it lined up.
Last edited:
Glenwood
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Little video of the kick down in operation. It is impossible to so this with one hand but it is running through its full travel from idle to WOT. The annoying noise if my camera focusing... turn the volume down
awesome! like your choice of music too!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Pandora Station I have dialed in that started its base selections with the Electric Light Orchestra
Nice. I love garage fabrication and that looks great. When I come down to put your windshield in, I will bring the box of bent, welded, repaired, and broke kickdown parts for you to fix. K thx.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
My rebuilt heater valve from Jim Tucker (http://www.heatercontrolvalve.com) came home today. Not sure what these looked like from the factory but this one is now purdy....
My recored heater core from Glen-ray left the UPS depot in Kansas yesterday so it should be here tomorrow or Friday. I will be finishing up the heater/AC system on the firewall this weekend!
My recored heater core from Glen-ray left the UPS depot in Kansas yesterday so it should be here tomorrow or Friday. I will be finishing up the heater/AC system on the firewall this weekend!
JimKueneman
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Magnum 500's and T/A Radials on their way from Coker Tire!
JimKueneman
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Crap, they will be here Monday... I figured I had till mid week to come up with something to tell the wife.....
Glenwood
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always have a plan B ready to go!
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