'68 Satellite 4-door light refurb...and big fat engine swap.
- Thread starter cudak888
- Start date
cudak888
Well-Known Member
Tackled the front seat back today. First off, I bought some vinyl vacuum plugs to cap off the potentially problematic manner in which the replacement '66 Belvedere springs are bent, vs the '68 springs.
'68 on left, '66 on right. Note the rear upper section of the spring is different as well:
1968 vs 1966 B-body upper seat springs by cudak888, on Flickr
1968 vs 1966 B-body upper seat springs by cudak888, on Flickr
Taking a cue from Teeth & Tires' "Biohazard" Barracuda build at FABO, I chucked out the burlap and batting for heavy marine vinyl. Bought it in the same color as the main seats, just in case I ever need spares for the exterior vinyl. Almost a perfect match too:
1968 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on Flickr
Lots of hog rings, soon to become many more:
1968 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on Flickr
Also, I dumped the cotton padding for high-density foam:
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on Flickr
Vinyl plugs looking good here:
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on Flickr
Foam clamped down:
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on Flickr
To make it easy to slide the vinyl over the foam, I put a layer of clear plastic over the foam. The corners were cut and clamped down tighter than what you see here for a better fit:
1968 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on Flickr
I glued (with contact cement) a pair of these foam heater pipe covers onto each side to protect the vinyl and give it a bit better shape. Sits bit better on the left than the right, but keeps the back and sides much more taut than it was before:
1968 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on Flickr
Roger Moore approved:
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on Flickr
And done. Almost a shame to cover it with that dirty vinyl from the PO, but I'll give it a cleaning before reinstallation:
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on Flickr
With the bottom half which still remains cotton/burlap (and will stay that way, barring any unforseen complications). Anyone have a trick for tightening up the seat release wire? It's extremely slack, but it seems to run lower than the transmission hump.
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on Flickr
That's all for today.
-Kurt
'68 on left, '66 on right. Note the rear upper section of the spring is different as well:
1968 vs 1966 B-body upper seat springs by cudak888, on Flickr1968 vs 1966 B-body upper seat springs by cudak888, on FlickrTaking a cue from Teeth & Tires' "Biohazard" Barracuda build at FABO, I chucked out the burlap and batting for heavy marine vinyl. Bought it in the same color as the main seats, just in case I ever need spares for the exterior vinyl. Almost a perfect match too:
1968 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on FlickrLots of hog rings, soon to become many more:
1968 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on FlickrAlso, I dumped the cotton padding for high-density foam:
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on FlickrVinyl plugs looking good here:
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on FlickrFoam clamped down:
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on FlickrTo make it easy to slide the vinyl over the foam, I put a layer of clear plastic over the foam. The corners were cut and clamped down tighter than what you see here for a better fit:
1968 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on FlickrI glued (with contact cement) a pair of these foam heater pipe covers onto each side to protect the vinyl and give it a bit better shape. Sits bit better on the left than the right, but keeps the back and sides much more taut than it was before:
1968 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on FlickrRoger Moore approved:
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on FlickrAnd done. Almost a shame to cover it with that dirty vinyl from the PO, but I'll give it a cleaning before reinstallation:
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on FlickrWith the bottom half which still remains cotton/burlap (and will stay that way, barring any unforseen complications). Anyone have a trick for tightening up the seat release wire? It's extremely slack, but it seems to run lower than the transmission hump.
'68 Satellite - front seat back repair by cudak888, on FlickrThat's all for today.
-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
'68 Satellite bench reinstalled by cudak888, on FlickrSeat install day. Had to shorten the passenger's side adjuster return spring, as it was not pulling back enough to latch the mechanism when released. Also turned out that I completely missed that the release wire sits on a hook in front to clear the trans tunnel. Works fine.
'68 Satellite bench reinstalled by cudak888, on FlickrCame very close to heat exhaustion today installing the completed bench, but it's back in. Looks decent enough. Better than sitting on a Costco stepstool.
'68 Satellite bench reinstalled by cudak888, on Flickr-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
Some unreasonably nice Koni shock absorbers arrived today. Got the pair on eBay shipped for about $25 cheaper than usual. Anyone have a pair for the front, by any chance? Part number would be 80-1538.
Koni shocks for the rear by cudak888, on Flickr
-Kurt
Koni shocks for the rear by cudak888, on Flickr-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
Haven't taken any photos, but I scored a complete set of NOS stainless Ventshades for the car. They'll be installed after I wet sand the window frames, along with the replacement weatherstripping.
-Kurt
-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
Steering day. There are two jackstands on the framerails at the firewall. The orange one is a safety. You can read on and rest easy now.
Flying Satellite by cudak888, on Flickr
I dropped the front steering linkage to find every single tie rod end carrying an original 6-digit Mopar part number (2072434). I almost thought they were original to the car, but all four had the same number on it - which meant someone had installed inner tie rod ends on the outer ends too.
007 by cudak888, on Flickr
Like everything else done on this car before me, the screwups didn't end there - there wasn't a single cotter pin on any of the castle nuts, save for the outer tie rod ends. I was able to shock one of the ends out of the center link with a single tap without even touching the tie rod end splitter.
Serves to justify my philosophy: No matter how much money I pour into this car, it's worth it just to make sure it doesn't kill me 5 minutes into its maden voyage. And to think that I even considered trying to drive this thing home the day I got it. Must have been watching too many Roadkill episodes that week.
However, the surprises didn't end there either, because everything came to a screeching halt when I compared my new idler arm against the old one:
Fast ratio Mopar C-Body idler arm vs. standard B/E idler arm by cudak888, on Flickr
Someone had stuck this C-body idler on the car, also known in the repro markets today as a "fast ratio" idler arm, usually packaged with a corresponding "fast-ratio" pitman arm, which - from what I've read - has its genesis in the 1970 (and some '71) Challenger T/A with the S74 fast-ratio steering package. What's more, Mopar was so cheap about it that the S74 packages retained the shorter idler arm, despite the longer pitman. Oy.
At any rate, I immediately checked the pitman arm (which I was too stupid to order in advance), looking to see if I'd been experiencing the intrigue of a 12:1 steering ratio and didn't even know it. Nope.
Mopar B/E-body standard-ratio pitman arm vs. fast ratio/C-body idler arm by cudak888, on Flickr
And since I now am in it for a pitman arm, I just decided to order a matched fast-ratio arm and idler from Amazon, anyway. However, I just now found out (thanks to some more Googling) that the steering box should be replaced as well due to the possibility of running a bit farther past lock if the standard box is paired with the fast-ratio arms.
Aw hell, one more excuse to get the Firm Feel box. Probably when I can find someone selling one cheap here on the forum. Someday I'll have to get a junk box, tear it apart, and figure out how to rebuild one and fool with the springs. Have been reluctant to try ever since I heard of the very real possibility of getting the spring rates wrong, possibly making the pump jam in one direction.
And in more positive news, the painted rack with its new tie rod ends looks really nice:
Mopar B-body steering assembly by cudak888, on Flickr
If it wasn't for the Saginaw pump and that fancy cooler sitting under the hood, I'd really consider converting this to a manual box...
-Kurt
Flying Satellite by cudak888, on FlickrI dropped the front steering linkage to find every single tie rod end carrying an original 6-digit Mopar part number (2072434). I almost thought they were original to the car, but all four had the same number on it - which meant someone had installed inner tie rod ends on the outer ends too.
007 by cudak888, on FlickrLike everything else done on this car before me, the screwups didn't end there - there wasn't a single cotter pin on any of the castle nuts, save for the outer tie rod ends. I was able to shock one of the ends out of the center link with a single tap without even touching the tie rod end splitter.
Serves to justify my philosophy: No matter how much money I pour into this car, it's worth it just to make sure it doesn't kill me 5 minutes into its maden voyage. And to think that I even considered trying to drive this thing home the day I got it. Must have been watching too many Roadkill episodes that week.
However, the surprises didn't end there either, because everything came to a screeching halt when I compared my new idler arm against the old one:
Fast ratio Mopar C-Body idler arm vs. standard B/E idler arm by cudak888, on FlickrSomeone had stuck this C-body idler on the car, also known in the repro markets today as a "fast ratio" idler arm, usually packaged with a corresponding "fast-ratio" pitman arm, which - from what I've read - has its genesis in the 1970 (and some '71) Challenger T/A with the S74 fast-ratio steering package. What's more, Mopar was so cheap about it that the S74 packages retained the shorter idler arm, despite the longer pitman. Oy.
At any rate, I immediately checked the pitman arm (which I was too stupid to order in advance), looking to see if I'd been experiencing the intrigue of a 12:1 steering ratio and didn't even know it. Nope.
Mopar B/E-body standard-ratio pitman arm vs. fast ratio/C-body idler arm by cudak888, on FlickrAnd since I now am in it for a pitman arm, I just decided to order a matched fast-ratio arm and idler from Amazon, anyway. However, I just now found out (thanks to some more Googling) that the steering box should be replaced as well due to the possibility of running a bit farther past lock if the standard box is paired with the fast-ratio arms.
Aw hell, one more excuse to get the Firm Feel box. Probably when I can find someone selling one cheap here on the forum. Someday I'll have to get a junk box, tear it apart, and figure out how to rebuild one and fool with the springs. Have been reluctant to try ever since I heard of the very real possibility of getting the spring rates wrong, possibly making the pump jam in one direction.
And in more positive news, the painted rack with its new tie rod ends looks really nice:
Mopar B-body steering assembly by cudak888, on FlickrIf it wasn't for the Saginaw pump and that fancy cooler sitting under the hood, I'd really consider converting this to a manual box...
-Kurt
ralphie361
Well-Known Member
Car is looking great! I never had a car with good interior until recently, and it makes them so much nicer to cruise!
cudak888
Well-Known Member
Believe me, sound deadener and carpet make all the difference in the world. Without it, you're pretty much riding around in a steel garbage can with an engine, and it'll sound like that everywhere.
I dug up this picture inside one of Amtrak's new Viewliner II baggage cars recently. It drives home the point quite well. Wouldn't want to have to buy all that in Dynamat:
-Kurt
ralphie361
Well-Known Member
And that's just for the baggage, lol!
cudak888
Well-Known Member
Exactly! Believe it or not, Amtrak sent the first three prototypes back to CAF for numerous QC issues, and it took two years to iron out the issues and start production up again. The baggage cars were the first out of the assembly line last year, so I hear. Wonder if soundproofing was in the list of complaints? Hehehehe...
P.S.: Satellite is up in the air tonight on three wheels. Huge fiasco with the studs. Will post it up in a bit.
-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
Satellite is high-and-dry on three wheels and a jackstand tonight, thanks to Dorman screwing up:
I ordered a set of 610-090 studs. I was sent a box of 610-514's (fits Ford Freestar or Mercury Monterey) in a 610-090 box. Now I have no choice but to use Dorman 98147.1's - there's two in stock at the local Advance and three at a nearby one. Not really thrilled about it - those Dormans expect the drum to be pressed onto the knurled edge as well. Eh, we'll see what happens. I don't have a tool to cut off a bit of the knurling.
This also marked my first foray into cutting swaged studs off of drums. You can read a whole dissertation about the right studs to use, and a rant - yes rant - of what I think of some of the forum folklore on the subject, but here's a build-thread look at things:
Tried cutting one swage with a 3/8" hole saw - then I tried pushing it out in the hydraulic press. Bent the drum. Ok, point of no return, so I sliced all the studs off with the death wheel. Hydraulic press pic shows me experimenting to see if any force would push the stud or hub out from the side. Obviously, it popped out easy from the center:
The end of a drum:
If you're thinking of replacing your studs someday, be prepared to cobble up something like this for your hydraulic press:
The hub is bolted to the plate below it, with the steel carb spacer serving as a relief for the nut (or bolt head, if you sleeve two bolts together) at the other end. This prevents the hub from flying off into your face - or other locations - if it does wind up cockeyed under pressure. The two steel cylinders between the plate and the nut provide the support necessary to prevent the hub from tipping over in the first place.
Tomorrow: Chasing after Dorman 98147.1 studs. My bet is that the knurl is too deep on these OE-spec replacements, but it may be the only option to get the car back down on its wheels tomorrow.
-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
Back on the ground. Bled the master cylinder and the entire brake system, and the pedal still feels like a sponge - not like a properly working 4-wheel drum system.
Might just tolerate the brakes for the first few test runs, then expedite the disc brake conversion. Why bother fooling with the drums when their days are numbered anyway?
1968 Plymouth Belvedere (Satellite) unmarked police cruiser by cudak888, on Flickr
1968 Plymouth Belvedere (Satellite) unmarked police cruiser by cudak888, on Flickr
1968 Plymouth Belvedere (Satellite) unmarked police cruiser by cudak888, on Flickr
1968 Plymouth Belvedere (Satellite) unmarked police cruiser by cudak888, on Flickr-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
The new fast-ratio idler and pitman came in, and I installed them on Friday. Apparently, I got it clocked 360 degrees off to the left, because I had only 50% of my left-hand steering travel when I was done (full story here).
To summarize the long version, I dropped the pitman and got the wheel reclocked perfectly, and I have a nice looking steering rack to show for it - with exception to all the vice-grip marks on the left-hand tie rod end adjuster. Meh.
1968 Plymouth Satellite B-body w/fast ratio pitman + idler by cudak888, on Flickr
At any rate, I'm really supposed to have an E-body Challenger T/A steering gear paired with it as well, because this setup sends the tires into the framerails if you're not careful. Oh well - that will come in due time.
In other news, I'm a bit concerned about the new, thicker drum brake, for it appears as if it's thick enough that the hub isn't contacting the center of the wheel:
And honestly, I have NO solution for this, other than to "...stop f'ing around with the drums already."
In weatherstripping news, I finally tried out a 1970 B-van vent window weatherstripping:
Unfortunately, '70-96 B-van weatherstripping is about 1.5mm too narrow, 3mm too deep, and has a pair of wings on the end that the original doesn't have:
By comparison, the much more minty strip of the same weatherstripping used on the B-bodies on my A-body '69 Valiant. Not the greatest picture, but you can see the lack of "wings." Though there's a possibility that it has them, but just tucked into the channel. Not sure:
After measuring the channel, I'm pretty sure a 12mm wide strip of weatherstripping that is 10-11mm deep should do the trick, in comparison to the B-van piece. Now to find out what bulk roll has those specs...
-Kurt
To summarize the long version, I dropped the pitman and got the wheel reclocked perfectly, and I have a nice looking steering rack to show for it - with exception to all the vice-grip marks on the left-hand tie rod end adjuster. Meh.
1968 Plymouth Satellite B-body w/fast ratio pitman + idler by cudak888, on FlickrAt any rate, I'm really supposed to have an E-body Challenger T/A steering gear paired with it as well, because this setup sends the tires into the framerails if you're not careful. Oh well - that will come in due time.
In other news, I'm a bit concerned about the new, thicker drum brake, for it appears as if it's thick enough that the hub isn't contacting the center of the wheel:
And honestly, I have NO solution for this, other than to "...stop f'ing around with the drums already."
In weatherstripping news, I finally tried out a 1970 B-van vent window weatherstripping:
Unfortunately, '70-96 B-van weatherstripping is about 1.5mm too narrow, 3mm too deep, and has a pair of wings on the end that the original doesn't have:
By comparison, the much more minty strip of the same weatherstripping used on the B-bodies on my A-body '69 Valiant. Not the greatest picture, but you can see the lack of "wings." Though there's a possibility that it has them, but just tucked into the channel. Not sure:
After measuring the channel, I'm pretty sure a 12mm wide strip of weatherstripping that is 10-11mm deep should do the trick, in comparison to the B-van piece. Now to find out what bulk roll has those specs...
-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
I love my neighbors. This is what happens around here when you run out of gas on a test run. You should have seen the lineup: Satellite followed by a Kia and a Chevy Volt.
Bet that's the first time the world has ever seen that cavalcade
-Kurt
Bet that's the first time the world has ever seen that cavalcade
-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
My Evil Disc Brake Plan™ is finally coming to fruition. Stock as this may look (excluding the FFI UCA's), there are a number of nice little party pieces going on here:
Mopar 11.75" B-Body Disc Brake Conversion (F/M/J spindle) by cudak888, on Flickr
In the pic:
Few more pictures:
Mopar 11.75" B-Body Disc Brake Conversion (F/M/J spindle) by cudak888, on Flickr
Mopar 11.75" B-Body Disc Brake Conversion (F/M/J spindle) by cudak888, on Flickr
Mopar 11.75" B-Body Disc Brake Conversion (F/M/J spindle) by cudak888, on Flickr
All I need at this point are some better B-body torsion bars, a disc/drum master cylinder, and a combination valve to replace the original distribution valve for the brakes - not to mention a nice hydraulic flaring tool so I don't wind up tearing my hair out modifying the existing lines for the combo valve.
-Kurt
Mopar 11.75" B-Body Disc Brake Conversion (F/M/J spindle) by cudak888, on FlickrIn the pic:
- Firm Feel tubular upper control arms (needed for proper caster)
- Koni shocks (have new ones for the rear as well)
- Lower control arms w/sway bar tabs
- F/M/J disc brake spindle (and yes, these are fine to use)
- Factory 11.75" Cordoba/M-body police-spec brake caliper adapters (not repops)
- F/M/J single piston brake calipers
Few more pictures:
Mopar 11.75" B-Body Disc Brake Conversion (F/M/J spindle) by cudak888, on FlickrMopar 11.75" B-Body Disc Brake Conversion (F/M/J spindle) by cudak888, on FlickrMopar 11.75" B-Body Disc Brake Conversion (F/M/J spindle) by cudak888, on FlickrAll I need at this point are some better B-body torsion bars, a disc/drum master cylinder, and a combination valve to replace the original distribution valve for the brakes - not to mention a nice hydraulic flaring tool so I don't wind up tearing my hair out modifying the existing lines for the combo valve.
-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
Back on the beam this weekend with some last-minute fiddling before giving this thing some actual shakedown runs. Not to mention finding out why the car has a persistent rear-end whine. There's no shortage of gear oil in the 8-3/4" to start with, so it is not that. Rear axle bearing? Adjustment? Something rubbing that I haven't seen yet? Should come to light soon enough.
Anyway, a few things accomplished today:
Mopar B-body (1968) fuel tank connections by cudak888, on Flickr
The last bit of fuel line that I had not replaced was the tank-to-feed line at the back. Turns out someone already got to it a while ago, but I have more faith in the longevity of a fuel line with Goodyear InstaGrip hose. A bit over the top for non-pressurized line, but the stuff is really resistant to dry rotting.
It's a good thing I went under there too, as I found the following:
At $10 shipped and a few zip ties, it'll do the job until I get the gumption to pull the instrument cluster and install that only-Mopar-could-be-so-expensive $50 voltage limiter that sits back there. The big surprise is that the thing actually works.
Oh, and one more gratuitous beauty shot of the Satellite. Gotta keep you guys interested somehow
Photo didn't come out that well, but I didn't have much time to snap the picture:
1968 Satellite by cudak888, on Flickr
And in completely unrelated news, my Valiant has acquired a new front license plate. A-body fellows should get the reference immediately:
149 PCE by cudak888, on Flickr
-Kurt
Anyway, a few things accomplished today:
Mopar B-body (1968) fuel tank connections by cudak888, on FlickrThe last bit of fuel line that I had not replaced was the tank-to-feed line at the back. Turns out someone already got to it a while ago, but I have more faith in the longevity of a fuel line with Goodyear InstaGrip hose. A bit over the top for non-pressurized line, but the stuff is really resistant to dry rotting.
It's a good thing I went under there too, as I found the following:
- The inverted J-tube "Candy Cane" fuel tank vent was dangling around loose. Apparently, the original clip had rusted a bit, but it looked as if nobody even thought to tie-wrap it back up there (advice to stupid mechanics: If there's a vent line obviously plumbed to the gas tank that is hanging LOWER than the tank itself, take this hint: FIX IT, YOU MORON). I found a spare hardware-store P-clip-with-L-bracket, modified it, and fastened it back to the shock mount with a screw and a speed nut clip.
- Apparently, someone cut the fuel line short; it now terminates just above the shock mount. You'll see it in the photo. The real problem? Someone didn't put a flare on the newly cut fuel line; all they did was clamp the hose. Some mechanic had a real death wish for a former owner of this thing. At any rate, I was able to get one of those el-cheapo flaring tools wedged in there - and it worked. I dropped the shock from the lower mount for extra room; perfect access.
At $10 shipped and a few zip ties, it'll do the job until I get the gumption to pull the instrument cluster and install that only-Mopar-could-be-so-expensive $50 voltage limiter that sits back there. The big surprise is that the thing actually works.
Oh, and one more gratuitous beauty shot of the Satellite. Gotta keep you guys interested somehow
Photo didn't come out that well, but I didn't have much time to snap the picture:
1968 Satellite by cudak888, on FlickrAnd in completely unrelated news, my Valiant has acquired a new front license plate. A-body fellows should get the reference immediately:
149 PCE by cudak888, on Flickr-Kurt
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cudak888
Well-Known Member
The Satellite had its first real runs today, but all under 15mph. Rear end was howling like hell. Pulled both axle shafts and found nothing, and the sound went away.
I have a suspicion that the end play was set too tight to begin with, and when I pulled and reinstalled the passenger's side axle, I allowed it to ease up. I'll have to go back in there next weekend, back off the end play, tighten the axle down again, and then set the end play properly - and cross my fingers.
Still feels like something is dragging though. I suspect the left rear brake shoes wound up tightening when I was pulling the axle. Next weekend's test may involve both setting the preload and backing down both adjusters until the pads do not touch the brakes at all, then testing it. If it passes, then I'll let the self-adjusters do their job with a few back-up runs.
-Kurt
I have a suspicion that the end play was set too tight to begin with, and when I pulled and reinstalled the passenger's side axle, I allowed it to ease up. I'll have to go back in there next weekend, back off the end play, tighten the axle down again, and then set the end play properly - and cross my fingers.
Still feels like something is dragging though. I suspect the left rear brake shoes wound up tightening when I was pulling the axle. Next weekend's test may involve both setting the preload and backing down both adjusters until the pads do not touch the brakes at all, then testing it. If it passes, then I'll let the self-adjusters do their job with a few back-up runs.
-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
Here's the short form: Center section passed with flying colors; left brake shoes were dragging hard. Pretty sure the shoes and the drums aren't radiussed to match each other, making the problem a bit more pronounced. I reset and greased the adjusters, and also repacked the axle bearings and re-adjusted the axle endplay. Couldn't be smoother now.
Long form of the story is here: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...pulled-axle-shafts-problem-disappears.118314/
That said, road trials went reasonably well. Kickdown and transmission line pressure are obviously wrong, and the transmission isn't putting the power through. Finally decided to ditch the factory crap and go Lokar. Ah, well...
-Kurt
cudak888
Well-Known Member
The Lokar cable has been installed...to no real effect.
I can fiddle the crispness of the shifts a bit, but the EARLIEST 1st to 2nd will shift (with the cable very slack at idle) is at around 16MPH. Setting it by Lokar's recommendations (full travel at WOT, minimal slack at idle) bumps it up to around 20mph.
What's more, from a dead stop, it still feels (and sounds) like I'm accelerating a 6000 pound van. But if I hit the gas at 25mph and go into kickdown, prepare to launch yourself into the next county, Darwin Award JATO rocket style.
So, after Googling my life away all evening trying to figure out if the transmission has low line pressure, it struck me that I didn't even know the rear end gears off the top of my head, though I had decoded it and posted it to FABO long ago when I was first considering purchasing the car: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...-body-68-satellite-unmarked-cop-clone.305071/
And there it is staring me in the face: 2.76 Rear Axle Ratio.
All I could think of was this:
Looks like I have a center section to find with some reasonable gears, not a tiny pinion and a huge ring gear made for pushing anemic little V8s around on Ike's Highways.
On a side note, tire size also went up about an inch from factory. The fender tag specifies 7.35" x 14" tires, which would have been approximately 25.96" in diameter. It's now riding on P225/70/R15s, which are about ~27.4".
-Kurt
I can fiddle the crispness of the shifts a bit, but the EARLIEST 1st to 2nd will shift (with the cable very slack at idle) is at around 16MPH. Setting it by Lokar's recommendations (full travel at WOT, minimal slack at idle) bumps it up to around 20mph.
What's more, from a dead stop, it still feels (and sounds) like I'm accelerating a 6000 pound van. But if I hit the gas at 25mph and go into kickdown, prepare to launch yourself into the next county, Darwin Award JATO rocket style.
So, after Googling my life away all evening trying to figure out if the transmission has low line pressure, it struck me that I didn't even know the rear end gears off the top of my head, though I had decoded it and posted it to FABO long ago when I was first considering purchasing the car: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...-body-68-satellite-unmarked-cop-clone.305071/
And there it is staring me in the face: 2.76 Rear Axle Ratio.
All I could think of was this:
Looks like I have a center section to find with some reasonable gears, not a tiny pinion and a huge ring gear made for pushing anemic little V8s around on Ike's Highways.
On a side note, tire size also went up about an inch from factory. The fender tag specifies 7.35" x 14" tires, which would have been approximately 25.96" in diameter. It's now riding on P225/70/R15s, which are about ~27.4".
-Kurt
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moparnation74
Well-Known Member
You certainly have been on an adventure!
Every wheel stud front or rear, swedged or not. I had no problems banging them out with a 3lb mallet. On swedged studs a press will almost always bend the drum....
Were those original tie rod ends shot?
Every wheel stud front or rear, swedged or not. I had no problems banging them out with a 3lb mallet. On swedged studs a press will almost always bend the drum....
Were those original tie rod ends shot?
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