What transmission fluid to use

[383man]

Myself I use the Mopar ATF+4. But I dont run a trans brake and I worked at a Mopar dealer for 24 years and I have a nice stock of ATF+4. Most racers like to use type F as its said to have less slipage but I have never had any problems with the ATF+4 and my trans shifts nice and hard when I am on it. Ron

 

[malex]

That’s what mine looked like the first time I dropped the pan.

Interested to hear what you did at that point.

 

[malex]

Malex, I am looking at one of the trans pictures posted above.
Do your header collector extensions REDUCE the size of the collector flange on your headers ??

Yes Mike, they reduce to 3" Until you noticed it I never thought twice about them, I used to use them on the Camaro, bolted right on.

 

[oldbee]

My recommendation is SYNTHETIC.
I use synthetic....I suggest any quality of BRAND NAME synthetic.
Also I use MARINE SYNTHETIC ATF because it has additives to fight moisture in the tranny. And we store these cars during cold and damp times of the winter...the marine synthetic has the additives to help with these conditions...especially if you fire up your car in the garage or driveway when it is cold outside and then put it back into the garage. When it cools down there will be moisture form. Start up your motor, pull it back into the garage, let it cool down and then pull a valve cover and look at the moisture build up...I would guess the same is going on with the transmission.
I personally spoke with one of the technicians at one of the transmission fluid manufacturers and he shared with me that using the Marine Synthetic in my race car would not have any bad effects...he said it is the same fluid as regular Synthetic ATF only with the addition of the moisture fighting additive.

Thanks Mike, now there’s something else to worry about besides lack of zinc in eng. oil!! More blasted web-surfing in our future.

 

[oldbee]

Interested to hear what you did at that point.

I think the question is how many miles/ drag runs on the trans? There’s always metallic in the pan. My first yr. racing, I cleaned it out& put in fresh and went another season; then did a refresh of everything before the 3rd year. Ur always going to have some crap in bottom of pan.

 

[malex]

That sucks, looks like the same valvebody I have

Yeah, I was surprised. The last raceday it seemed to be working fine, good thing I decided to service it.

I was told that the trans is a Protrans. When I changed the shift selector seal last summer though I found that it is 727 internals. Likely built at Protrans. Just as well, good time to get it apart and see what is what. Already dug into it..

Not your everyday trans jack but it works great. It made installing/removing the tremec magnum in the Camaro a breeze. Just had to modify my plate a little for the Torqueflite.

Got to do something with this lower right side bolt. The TTI headers are right in the way of getting it out. I would imagine lots of guys have run into this.

Looks like I'll be putting on my transmission hat next.

 

[malex]

I think the question is how many miles/ drag runs on the trans? There’s always metallic in the pan. My first yr. racing, I cleaned it out& put in fresh and went another season; then did a refresh of everything before the 3rd year. Ur always going to have some crap in bottom of pan.

I'd say there's about 30 passes on it. There was nothing stuck on the plug magnet.

 

[1967coronet440]

Yeah, I was surprised. The last raceday it seemed to be working fine, good thing I decided to service it.

I was told that the trans is a Protrans. When I changed the shift selector seal last summer though I found that it is 727 internals. Likely built at Protrans. Just as well, good time to get it apart and see what is what. Already dug into it..

View attachment 548789
Not your everyday trans jack but it works great. It made installing/removing the tremec magnum in the Camaro a breeze. Just had to modify my plate a little for the Torqueflite.
View attachment 548790

Got to do something with this lower right side bolt. The TTI headers are right in the way of getting it out. I would imagine lots of guys have run into this.
View attachment 548791
Looks like I'll be putting on my transmission hat next.

Brilliant with the “trans jack”! That bolt is going to be fun!

 

[oldbee]

I'd say there's about 30 passes on it. There was nothing stuck on the plug magnet.

Well IMHO I’d wait for ‘dvw’ to chime in, but it doesn’t sound bad to me for another year; course you have a lot more HP& torque than I ever did & im not “up” on all the latest.Of course it was new footer&fluid every winter.

 

[1967coronet440]

@dvw what ya think Doug

 

[malex]

Well IMHO I’d wait for ‘dvw’ to chime in, but it doesn’t sound bad to me for another year; course you have a lot more HP& torque than I ever did & im not “up” on all the latest.Of course it was new footer&fluid every winter.

Oldbee that is Exactly what the plan is over here. Waiting for Doug to check in.
I'd sure like to know what's inside though for upgrades. If there wasn't even a bolt in sprag inside that could be disaster.

 

[malex]

Brilliant with the “trans jack”! That bolt is going to be fun!

Thanks Coronet. It sure worked great for that heavy tremec, and a little rocking and the input shaft would slip in every time.

 

[oldbee]

Oldbee that is Exactly what the plan is over here. Waiting for Doug to check in.
I'd sure like to know what's inside though for upgrades. If there wasn't even a bolt in sprag inside that could be disaster.

Lol, there’s also ‘miller’ to wait for & others I’m forgetting I’m sure.Didnt have a bolt-in sprag in mine, but only mid-12’s way back in late 70’s( we didn’t know any better). Mine had all hemi internals before almost anyone knew about cutting down the rotating mass.

 

[Mike Gaines]

Yes Mike, they reduce to 3" Until you noticed it I never thought twice about them, I used to use them on the Camaro, bolted right on.

Malex., If you have 3 1/2" collectors and 3" bolt on extensions that are about 3-4" long I would think that you are defeating the purpose of the 3 1/2 collector. I have 3 1/2" collectors on my 2" DOUGS headers and I just ordered a pair of 3 1/2" diameter, 12" long collector extensions to get some more low end "grunt".
The other purpose of the 12" collector extensions is that I am going to weld in my "bung" for my new Air/Fuel Sensor setup at the very beginning of the 12" collector extension so I have 12" of exhaust AFTER sensor...as recommended by the manufacturer.

 

[malex]

Malex., If you have 3 1/2" collectors and 3" bolt on extensions that are about 3-4" long I would think that you are defeating the purpose of the 3 1/2 collector. I have 3 1/2" collectors on my 2" DOUGS headers and I just ordered a pair of 3 1/2" diameter, 12" long collector extensions to get some more low end "grunt".
The other purpose of the 12" collector extensions is that I am going to weld in my "bung" for my new Air/Fuel Sensor setup at the very beginning of the 12" collector extension so I have 12" of exhaust AFTER sensor...as recommended by the manufacturer.

Thanks Mike. I bolted these on to get the heat past the cross member area and never gave them a second thought. Will be fixing those up in short order.

 

[oldbee]

Thanks Mike. I bolted these on to get the heat past the cross member area and never gave them a second thought. Will be fixing those up in short order.

You guys still shortening collectors after a couple runs when the “heat” marks stop in the collector?

 

[malex]

You guys still shortening collectors after a couple runs when the “heat” marks stop in the collector?

For me the extension is to get the heat past the crossmember, without it the paint will get torched.

 

[threewood]

I have used Type F without issue in a few cars.

As for the trans gunk, was the trans built for racing with race parts? Billet aluminum drums will wear faster and put metallic in the fluid. With them, fluid changes are suppose to be more frequent. Also, kevlar bands will wear down steel and aluminum drums faster.

I actually enjoy tearing down and putting together 727's but I am a little crazy lol.

 

[malex]

I have used Type F without issue in a few cars.

As for the trans gunk, was the trans built for racing with race parts? Billet aluminum drums will wear faster and put metallic in the fluid. With them, fluid changes are suppose to be more frequent. Also, kevlar bands will wear down steel and aluminum drums faster.

I actually enjoy tearing down and putting together 727's but I am a little crazy lol.

Thanks Threewood.
My transmission came with the car, was fresh, for racing, said to be built by Protrans, transbrake, fully rollerised, 4 gear planetary, etc. Can I be sure on all of that being the case, nope, although it worked well last season. The dirty oil and pan was a surprise. I've decided to have it gone through, freshened and find out what it actually is first time around. Hopefully it is what it was supposed to be. Stay tuned.

 

[miller]

The dirty oil and pan was a surprise.

I'd only ask how often you changed the fluid. If not much, looks pretty typical to me, considering it's use. Most of the 'dirt' would be clutch powder. I'd change the fluid after so many runs, to keep it in good shape.
At least some I've known, years ago, would replace the clutches (including the red ones) often, right at the track.