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Ron Francis wiring.

64SF

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I have a 67 Satellite (born with a 318/Auto/Air) and will be replacing with a BB (383 or 440 Auto/Air) with an electronic distributor. The car does need rewiring for a lot of reasons and am zeroing in on the below harness from Ron Francis. Looked at Year One's but it is pricey and along with the dash harness (as I read it) an engine harness and rear harness will have to be purchased as well. I building this car to use as a nice dependable daily driver/cruiser. Anyone had experience with the below harness?



http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BB-68
 
That is a great linc, I will look into this as well.
Jeff
 
Just put a francis harness on my 67 coronet last night. Took me all of 30min fits perfect / looks oem..
 
Just put a francis harness on my 67 coronet last night. Took me all of 30min fits perfect / looks oem..

Does it come with all the connectors and stuff on it for the headlights and tail lights etc? Which model did you use?

I am seriously considering them now since I don't trust my 45 year old wiring and will be building a custom gauge cluster and running a late model 5.7 hemi anyway.
 
160 -180 bucks for EZ, best stuff I have found. High quality, heavy gauge. Installed 6 of them.:headbang:
http://ezwiring.com/

They are a nice basic kit. They have come a long way since their all black wiring harness. There are other things that come into play with wiring also. Do those kits come with the connector for the lights, dimmer switch ignition switch and so on? What is the strand count of the wire? The more strands, the better. Electricity actually travels on the wire, not in it. It also looks like they are still doing the wire octopus out of the fuse panel.Does it use nylon crimp connectors or factory style Packard connectors? Are there separate sub harnesses for the front lights, taillights and engine? Some of the things to consider when buying a harness is future servicability. If you have to pull your instrument cluster, do you have to unscrew each wire or can you just simply seperate one or two connectors and take the cluster to the bench? How detailed are the instructions and the provided schematics?

There are a lot of things to look at besides price. A Pinto will get you to the store and back also.
 
I'm finishing up now installing a Painless kit. For the price (a little over $400) I was happy with how it went. The instructions were fairly easy to follow. Was time consuming but hey what isn't on our cars.
 
I have a Ron Francis kit for my 67 Sat too that I haven't put in yet. Are you going to use the stock bulkhead connector? If not, what is your plan to cover the hole in the firewall?
 
I went with Year One's offerings from M&H on my 66 Sat project. Did both the under dash, engine bay and headlights harnesses. Went for electronic ignition set up and wired it all using the MAD Electrical by pass of the Ammeter. Installed headlight relays as well. Yes pricy is the operative word here. But I couldn't see a better looking setup from the others mentioned here although they are considerations....
 
Satellite 67. Which harness did you buy. I haven't made the purchase yet but getting close. Wasn't planning on using the stock connector and really don't if that's possible. I've seen some pictures of options. I will try to find them and post. Perhaps others reading this thread have ideas as well.
 
I like painless performance harnesses
 
64SF, I bought the EXPRESS kit, but it is still patiently waiting in the box. I know that new replacement bulkhead connectors are available, but to me that is a weak point that is not needed, plus you would have to cut all of the wires going through. Because I didn't think to weld a patch over the hole in the firewall before paint, I am thinking of some sort of cover with hole(s) and grommet(s) that will look ok, and seal the hole. Has anyone done this, or have any ideas?
 
64SF, I bought the EXPRESS kit, but it is still patiently waiting in the box. I know that new replacement bulkhead connectors are available, but to me that is a weak point that is not needed, plus you would have to cut all of the wires going through. Because I didn't think to weld a patch over the hole in the firewall before paint, I am thinking of some sort of cover with hole(s) and grommet(s) that will look ok, and seal the hole. Has anyone done this, or have any ideas?

Just make a steel patch to cover the hole and paint to match. You can then install a grommet in it if you want to pass the wiring through there or go through a less conspicious spot. I've done it a few times and it doesn't look bad at all. You can even attatch it with button head stainless screws.
 
Has anyone out there basically started from scratch? I'm thinking of using a push in type fuse block I got out of a 1993 Dodge truck. Someone has already sliced a bunch of my wires.
 
Hey
I have just installed the ron francais bare bonz kit in my 68 charger,
i bought the kit that replaced every single wire in the car.
best thing i ever bought so easy to setup and came with everything,

every wire is marked to where it goes and the fuse block is very nice and simple,
they supply alot of wire i think i have about 10metres left lol
 
sattelite, i used a thin piece of ploished stainless steel with 2 holes and grommets then fixed it the firewall with rivets, it looks very tidy
 
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