I guess the guys at Hooker didn't plan on us steering.

[68ChargerAG]

I don't know what to do now... After taking almost my entire engine compartment apart, lifting the engine, removing the right side torsion bar, and having to take the entire top of the engine apart to drill out two broken off exhaust manifold studs... I finally have my new Hooker headers installed, only to find that both sides are in the way of the steering linkage!!!

What the... ??? :edgy:

Any suggestions? I don't want to take them back off, It was soooo much trouble getting them on. But I can't steer now. Hmmm.... catch 22 I guess.

I started banging on them to see if I can just dent them in a bit to allow the steering linkage to pass by, but I don't want to close them up too much. Also, they are very strong, I think I will have to find someone with a torch to heat them up to bend them without just f'ing them up.

Any suggestions on how much room I should "create" between them and the steering linkage? I assume just enough for the steering to move, but just wondering if there is a "rule of thumb" for that.

Is there a better way to deal with this problem?

Thanks,

 

[69HEMICORONETR/TCONV]

I had the same problem with "the Last" set of Hookers I bought, ..........I took them off, cussing and bitching the whole time I was removing them, ............they were returned.

 

[696pack]

I had the same problem with "the Last" set of Hookers I bought, ..........I took them off, cussing and bitching the whole time I was removing them, ............they were returned.

That has been a looooong time problem with Hookers and some other headers. I see more headers "massaged" for steering clearence than not. I have a welded tube through one of my header tubes for the dipstick as otherwise it is nearly impossible to get it in and out.

If you don't want to take them off get a peice of wooden dowel or solid round steel about the size that is necessary for clearence. Put it between the two parts and hold it loosely as someone turns the stering wheel SLOWLY. Allow the dowel to rotate in your hand while keeping it in place so that it has less change of making a kink or shuting of the tube completely. This should make a nice "soft" dent for clearence. it won't take too big of a dowel.

 

[68ChargerAG]

I have a welded tube through one of my header tubes for the dipstick

Wow, come to think of it, I still need to put my dipstick back in.
I sure hope I don't have to weld a tube through the header to get it in. :sad:

I was pretty sure that I had heard of problems with Headman, but never with Hooker. Guess I was wrong. :grin:

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[Deleted member 214]

The first set of Hedman's I bought never had the welds ground down inside the exhaust flanges. They didn't believe me, I sent them digital photos, they backed down and sent me a second set. That set hit the torsion bar on the driver side. Summit took them back, I traded up to Hooker Super Comps. They fit with my manual steering box, but when I tried to put in a factory power box they hit. If I had to do it all over again I would go one of two ways - 1) buy TTI headers, or 2) buy a set of cheap Summit headers and a big hammer.

 

[696pack]

Putting a dipstick tube through the header tube is not that difficult. You just drill a hole throught the tube and insert a steel tube compatable with the dipstick size and weld around the ends of the new small tube. Really not a big deal.

 

[dantrap]

Headers are real big pain with aftermarket heads. As for your dip stick you can use one of the braeded flexable ones, I dont remember the manufacture but i got it at Mancinis.

 

[68ChargerAG]

OK, I guess I don't feel so bad anymore. It looks like I am definitely not alone with my header horror story.

I guess the best thing for me to do is just buck up, get a bigger hammer, and just keep beating the crap out of my headers until they fit. At least they are not ceramic coated... man that would suck!

 

[RGAZ]

If you want it prettier, I would mark the clearance areas needed, remove the headers (cussing all the way) take them to a shop with a hydraulic press and press a 1" steel rod into the area. Nice smooth transitions are best.

Randy

 

[dantrap]

Or you can cut and reroute the tubes that are the problem. You might want to add a slip fit joint to on or to tube on both sides. Like the cut the flange and slip fit the tube that hit the t-bar. Mark and cut the tubes, fit your replacements. After you correct the problem areas, weld them up and send them out for coating. I will tell you, 1 or 2 slip fit tubes and a split flange make the install a lot cleaner.

 

[mac68]

mmmm my hooker comps pn# l5703 and r5703 went right in was barley touching the left torsion bar (hooked the collecter w/ a come along and pulled it from the torsion bar 1/4"). no steering issues.factory 68 charger,440,727.

 

[1badgtx]

I had a tough time with mine too...Ordered heads(edelbrock)and headers ( super comp ceramic)from summit..I had to fight them to get,em in..Then the # 2 cylinder the spark plug was too tight around the header to screw it in...Had to bash it a little then the plug finally went in...Went to summit to get short plugs so the plug wires will not burn out every 50 miles...The guy at summit said,oh you should of gotten the 2 inch they are made for the angled plugs on the edelbrock heads...Oh now you tell me asshole!!!!
Petty Blue 67 GTX

 

[Revhendo]

I had a tough time with mine too...Ordered heads(edelbrock)and headers ( super comp ceramic)from summit..I had to fight them to get,em in..Then the # 2 cylinder the spark plug was too tight around the header to screw it in...Had to bash it a little then the plug finally went in...Went to summit to get short plugs so the plug wires will not burn out every 50 miles...The guy at summit said,oh you should of gotten the 2 inch they are made for the angled plugs on the edelbrock heads...Oh now you tell me asshole!!!!
Petty Blue 67 GTX

Ah the joys of the true difference between customer service and parts peddlers.....

 

[wedge5]

I have Doug's 2'' ceramic coated headers and had to dent them in one spot so the drag link arm would clear. I didn't want to but had no choice.