Rear window - lower corners

[Joe Mopar]

Hi All,

Had some disappointment when I popped off the rear window trim, took out the rear window and found the bottom and especially the corners had rust issues. The really only rust issues on this car.

64 Dodge 440 2 dr. post.

Here's my question. Does any one make/offer new metal corners for B-Bodies of this year / model car? If not does anyone have a parts car with good metal in these areas that they would sell the sections.

I thought I saw on someone elses thread this a.m. new pcs. similar to what I need.

Thanks,
Joe

I realize that there are a couple other spots along the bottom of rear window but figured those were much easier for a body man to fix than trying to mess with the corners.

 

[wookie77]

Have you tried Dante's ? They offer a lot of hard to find parts at good prices. Also The Paddock or Wildcat parts in Oregon. they have like 900 Mopar cars for parts... I have kind of the same issure on my '69 Coronet but not quite as severe.

 

[snakeoil24]

try texas acres for this piece. I would recommend mig weld a replacement, be very careful of the heat and use lead to seal the new seams.

 

[wookie77]

I believe Texas Acres has shut down...

 

[Meep-Meep]

I made my own for my 69 RR from sheet steel. First I made a template out of poster board (thick paper) then formed the steel parts with compound snips, a hand brake, a vice, various hammers, blocks of wood and over mandrels then TIG welded the pieces in and used lead to finish. It may sound like too much hassle but before I could go on the computer to search for parts I was cutting metal! Looks good after paint too.

 

[wookie77]

Nice! That looks great. Do you think one could MIG weld the parts as well? I also need to research how to use lead as filler instead of Bondo. I might have to do that to my 69 Coronet but I haven't taken the rear window out yet to check out the extent of damage i have.

 

[Meep-Meep]

You could MIG it but be real careful not to burn through. I'd recommend gas with a small tip for better control if you don't have a TIG. For lead work use the 70/30 stuff because the alloy has a wide melt range and remains in the "plastic" state for workability. Eastwood has everything you need for lead work. Good luck!

 

[Bbodee]

Migging it is a good option. I had two sizeable rot holes in my rear window. (62 Plymouth) after cutting it out the first was a apricot-sized patch down into the quarter panel the other was along the bottom passenger side. I had to reconstruct the inner structure/window channel. These were my first two attempts ant ANY metal working or welding, and they needed just a tiny skim of filler when I was done. The best part about this type of patch is that half is covered by window trim! Don't be scared! Try it!

I am now reconstructing my cowl, patching lower 1/4 panels, and added frame connectors. Mig is fine.

Just use the a small diameter wire, gas shielding, make sure everything is nice and clean, and take your time. a 110v MIG is right in it's element here. tack, then move around, don't run a continuous bead. what you want to do is do a bunch of tacks that eventually form an entire weld. Use a copper plate as a backer to help bleed off excess heat, it will help prevent burn through. Use Esab "ez-grind" wire. You will thank me later.

Pre-filler/ sanding/primer pics:

 

[Bbodee]

 

[Joe Mopar]

Thanks all.

This is one item that will be on my Christmas list this year. A welder. :yes:

Better start behaving. :grin:

 

[Bbodee]

Remember Joe, it is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission....

 

[Joe Mopar]

Remember Joe, it is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission....

:rolling::rolling::rolling::rolling:

Have to give that a try. :yes::grin: