Oil Pump Removal: Plug below pump - Stainless Steel? A Welder's Help Needed

[watermelon]

Hi All,

I am progressing through my MSD Atomic EFI Upgrade for my 440ci.

I am have removed the mechanical fuel pump at this point and am trying to get the plug, which I stripped (bitttcchh), out at this point.

Anyhow, do you think the plug is made of stainless steel?

I tried mig welding a nut on the sucker. It seemed all was going well but when I tried to remove the nut/plug with a socket, the nut just broke off cleanly along with the mild steel mig weld

Some pics are below:



My plan was to fill the plug with melted mig wire and then fill the nut with melted mig wire as well.

Do you think the plug is stainless? I put a magnet to it and the magnet attracts to the plug. Other tools like hex wrenches attract to the plug too.

I need this thing out. I may try getting some left-handed drill bits next.


watermelon

 

[RustyRatRod]

Is the block out? If it is, take it to someone who can TIG REAL good. They'll weld that nut on so it'll never ever come off.

 

[benno440]

or use an easy out tool, it is like a drill bit but the thread is reversed.google it it is used for getting striiped nuts or broken bolts out.

the nut is not stainless.
spray some penetrene around that too looks a bit corroded and seized.

i am a welder by trade and i would not weld it, try the easy out frist man

 

[rev.ronnie]

Drill a hole all the way through it. Then, hammer an impact grade Torx bit into it and spin it out. I use Torx tools for more broken stud and bolt removal than any other method. I do have many other types of removers but this always works. If you do happen to breathe bit off, no problem, just tap it through and drill to the next size. The less plug there is, the easier it will come out.

 

[Propwash]

As far as welding it, make sure the metal on the plug is real clean. I would dill a bit into the plug, jack up the amps pretty high, slow the wire speed and boil a puddle starting in the drilled out area up into the middle of that nut. Easy out may do it as well, but personally I've probably spent more time removing snapped easy outs than actually removing the broken bolt or plug. Stay away from the Bluepoint/Snap on kit. Key with that is getting as close to the original hole diameter as possible. Torx bit is a good idea, but you may have some minimal shavings find their way inside. Good luck whatever route you go...never fun dealing with issues like that.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I have used left hand drill bits to get stuff like this out. It's basically a regular drill bit but designed to work in reverse rotation. The whole purpose is the bit grabs just as it breaks through and unscrews the bolt/plug/whatever. If that fails then you will have a hole all the way through then proceed like rev.ronnie said or an easy out. Tip: Use the largest drill bit and extracting tool possible.

 

[watermelon]

Thanks for the help all.

Is the block out? If it is, take it to someone who can TIG REAL good. They'll weld that nut on so it'll never ever come off.

the engine is running and installed so that makes it easy to work on :icon_eyes:

i am researching all the left-handed things i can (drill bits, easy outs, tap & die sets).

i have been soaking it with penetrator for the past few days.

i am going to try the left-handed drill bits and torx idea next.

Rev.Ronnie: is the bit below the type you had in mind?




thanks again all,

watermelon

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well.....I ain't tryin to rain on your parade here.....but I would not use an ease out on that thing if somebody held a gun to my head. You're askin for trouble. Pipe plugs have tapered threads and they wedge themselves in as they tighten up. Ain't no way in hell an ease out will get that joker out. I hold out the same hope for a left handed drill bit. But good luck whatever you do.

 

[69Bee]

One, why do you want to remove the plug? It seems to be sealing the hole for the fuel pump shaft just fine.

Second, I remove stubborn plugs all the time. The best way to remove them is to drill them out to about 2/3 of the diameter and then use an easy-out. I use the stubby Matco ones to reduce the chance of breakage. With the 3/8" plug there, drill to about 1/4" to 3/8" drill, and use the proper easy-out with a breaker bar for more tourqe, and it will come right out.

Good luck...

 

[watermelon]

One, why do you want to remove the plug? It seems to be sealing the hole for the fuel pump shaft just fine.
Good luck...

Thanks for the reply. I am switching over to an electric fuel pump. I removed the mechanical fuel pump but the rod is still in the engine.

Do I need to remove the rod? If not...then I say f'it.


watermelon

 

[69Bee]

Thanks for the reply. I am switching over to an electric fuel pump. I removed the mechanical fuel pump but the rod is still in the engine.

Do I need to remove the rod? If not...then I say f'it.


watermelon

If the fuel pump has been removed, then the rod will fall away from the cam, and should not be a problem. It is definately easier to remove the plug when the motor is out, and you could wait until you do take it out.

 

[mopar367]

Put some vice grips of the sucker. I had this problem on an old 383 I had for spare parts. Vice grip took care of it.

 

[rev.ronnie]

Thanks for the help all.



the engine is running and installed so that makes it easy to work on :icon_eyes:

i am researching all the left-handed things i can (drill bits, easy outs, tap & die sets).

i have been soaking it with penetrator for the past few days.

i am going to try the left-handed drill bits and torx idea next.

Rev.Ronnie: is the bit below the type you had in mind?

View attachment 89520


thanks again all,

watermelon

I use the short stubby ones that have the 3/8 drive on one end. Pulled a thousand studs and plugs with them in my life. I agree that if you don't need to remove the plug for any other reason than getting the rod out, leave it there. It's fine.