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Advice for a 73 Roadrunner

wags70ss

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Hello all. I am going to look at a 73 Roadrunner this weekend & purchase it. I was wondering if I could get some advice about what to look for as far as it being a solid car & rust or other problem areas. It is a 318/904 car & is supposed to be numbers matching so I want to know what to look for to ensure that it is & where to look for problem areas with these cars. Thanks!
 
The first thing you need to know is these cars are not all that rare and not all that collectible. Cars made after 1972 aren't in the same muscle car category as those made before and shouldn't be priced the same. One year makes a difference, and just because a 72 Road Runner can sell for $25,000+ doesn't mean a 73 does. But, a lot of sellers out there believe Old Mopar = Big $$$$ so beware.

Don't let them run the price up on you by saying it's a numbers matching 318 car. There's no real value added when you're talking about a 318 car.

Be sure to check the lower portions of the quarter panels thoroughly! There's no such things as "a little rust" in these areas. Poor weathersealing and drainage in these cars caused a lot of rust to form from the inside out in these areas, and if you can see a little on the outside, you've likely got a lot behind it. Also, only the areas in front and behind the wheel well are reproduced. If the rust is all along the quarter panel, you're going to be looking at replacing the whole panel and that gets real expensive but quick! Rust on the doors or fenders isn't such a big deal, but I pass on cars that have a lot of rust in the quarters.

Check around the rear window trim for rust as this is another area that tends to rust out. Trunk floors, seat pans, and the space between the windshield wipers are also prone to damage as well.

Check the first two characters of the VIN. They should be RM. If they are RL, RH, or RP, the car is a Satellite and not a Road Runner. A lot can happen to a car over 40 years, and many Satellites have had Road Runner parts and markings put on them by various owners, and over time have become known as Road Runners, but if the price is based on the car being a Road Runner, make sure the VIN is RM.

You didn't mention a price, but here's what I go by for a 318 car: Mint/restored: $12,000-$17,000, very good condition: $8,000-$12,000, daily driver (minor rust, decent paint, runs good): $2,500-$8,000, project car (rust, needs paint/bodywork, mechanical issues, major interior issues, etc.): $1,000 to $2,500, and parts car (severe rust, major problems, no drive train, etc.) $300-$1,000.

Lastly, there's no such thing as "there are a few minor parts missing". As I mentioned before, 1972 and earlier cars are a lot more collectable than 1973 and later ones, but many of the parts on a 1973 also go on 1971 and 1972 cars, which means the prices for these parts are based on demand for 1971/1972 parts. Replacing something simple like interior panels, seat belts, even ash trays can run up your costs. Find out what's missing, and adjust the price for it.
 
Also check the cowl area in several places- remove the plastic screens near the wipers and feel the sheet metal on the lower portion of the cowl plenum, and around the base of the vent on the passenger side, then open the doors and look closely where the two panels overlap between the hinge mounts on the body.

Those areas are very susceptible to rust and are a nightmare to repair.

Also have a look at the front frame sections around the shock tower area and where the K frame bolts up.

Maybe we should have stickies under each year range for what to look for and known problems for that generation.
 
Also check the cowl area in several places- remove the plastic screens near the wipers and feel the sheet metal on the lower portion of the cowl plenum, and around the base of the vent on the passenger side, then open the doors and look closely where the two panels overlap between the hinge mounts on the body.

Those areas are very susceptible to rust and are a nightmare to repair.

Also have a look at the front frame sections around the shock tower area and where the K frame bolts up.

Maybe we should have stickies under each year range for what to look for and known problems for that generation.

I think that would be a great idea so newbies would know what to look for. Thanks!

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Where all can I find VIN numbers, date codes, stamping numbers, ect to verify what it is?
 
I think that would be a great idea so newbies would know what to look for. Thanks!

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Where all can I find VIN numbers, date codes, stamping numbers, ect to verify what it is?

The fender tag on the drivers side fender will have all the codes. Also check the vin number on the dash against what the fender tag says. The numbers you want to match with the vin number is the bottom row numbers and then the dash vin.

Good luck and post pics! I also have a pic thread of 73-74 so post them in there as well. Projects to restored cars welcomed.
 
What about other areas of the car/motor/trans/rearend where the vin code is located? How about casting numbers on the engine, trans, & rear end?

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Also, I am curious. Why is a '72 worth so much more than a '73 if they look almost identical?
 
What about other areas of the car/motor/trans/rearend where the vin code is located? How about casting numbers on the engine, trans, & rear end?

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Also, I am curious. Why is a '72 worth so much more than a '73 if they look almost identical?

I'm not sure on the stampings of the motor and trans where or what side they are located.

The 72s was kind of the last year for performance for Mopar (kind of) and it is the last year for the front end design. The grill is a one year only grill and very high dollar if you need it.

The 73s grew 7 inches longer and was given the bumper guards that stand out. The front end is a love it or hate it type of deal. I really like the front ends and think these cars look great when done and if modded they look even better. I don't get to ticked off if someone takes a 73-73 car and mod it or make it more modern.

I also think more were made.
 
i own 2 73 rr 1 74 rr actualy rm code my ? is where does somone find quarters thats the part that are almost extinct? thanks all 1 i have is 85% done i would love to see some mods to these cars as ur talking about or ideas thanks
 
i own 2 73 rr 1 74 rr actualy rm code my ? is where does somone find quarters thats the part that are almost extinct? thanks all 1 i have is 85% done i would love to see some mods to these cars as ur talking about or ideas thanks

Quarter panels I think I asked if anyone makes them and was told only the lower 1/4 half panel for the rear quarter panels. I was told to find a Sat that has good panels.

I keep thinking a 73-74 with a Viper motor and maybe a whole Viper......Sticking in my head bad!!!
 
The fender tag on the drivers side fender will have all the codes. Also check the vin number on the dash against what the fender tag says. The numbers you want to match with the vin number is the bottom row numbers and then the dash vin.

Good luck and post pics! I also have a pic thread of 73-74 so post them in there as well. Projects to restored cars welcomed.

Additionally, the full VIN should be located on the drivers door sticker. Partial VIN last 6 digits should be located in front of the drivers side cowl, upper left radiator support, (may be behind the radiator) so look from the front. On the engine it should be on the passenger side front just above the oil pan, not sure where it is on the 904 transmission, but 727 should be drivers side above the pan and below the shift levers.
 
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Also, I am curious. Why is a '72 worth so much more than a '73 if they look almost identical?

1972 is widely accepted as the end of the muscle car era. This was because 1972 was the year that horsepower numbers stopped increasing as higher and higher insurance rates started taking a big bite out of muscle car sales. All manufacturers started dropping the available horsepower in 1973 and the Hemi, 440-6, and HP engines went away. The only HP engine that survived was the 340, and that was only because Chrysler rigged the performance tests to show the horsepower output was lower than it actually was. This was also the time that the gasoline shortage and increased fuel prices further reduced the market, and manufacturers started losing interest in supporting these products.

As for me, this has all worked out great because my favorite car has always been the 73-74 road runners. To me they're better than any of the older cars and the prices for these cars has never gone bezerk like the older cars did. :)
 
Maybe we should have stickies under each year range for what to look for and known problems for that generation.

:yes: The "what areas should I look for" question's been answered many, many times, with plenty of great answers. A sticky is definitely needed.
 
I love my 73 roadrunner and even though I also love the 71&72 models I see them more of them around. My 73 is the only one I have ever seen around where I am of course I think I have the only old mopar driving around in the town I live in right now. Those quarter panels are the worse place to have damage as they do have the lower patches but if the upper part of the wheel arch is damaged you cant find em. I've been looking for quarters as I found hidden damage on mine that I didnt notice when I purchased and found some used ones at scrapyards and they wanted almost 1000 dollars for each side and they were very damaged as well. Hopefully somone someday will produce some better metal for our cars I'm just gonna keep driving it with the bondo till they do lol.
 
Not to stir up a debate, but if you google Muscle Car era, many of the returns identify the muscle car era from 1963-1974. I lived that era, and the 73 and 74's were muscle cars. The .318 wasn't a muscle car engine, but the other options were. And even the .318 could he hi po'd into a .340 with just bolt on stuff from a junkyard.

It's all a matter of opinion, but sales for the 1973 model outpaced the sales for the 1972 Satty base models in sales. And they 73 sales for the Satty line kept pace with the 73 Camaro at the time.

Back in the day, the 1973 Plymouth Roadrunner was popular, the only problem was that the production line lasted but a year and a half, with the 74's halting production in January. If the line had lasted longer, through 1974 and 1975 through 1976, I think it would be an easily recognizable car.

One magazine I read had the 1973 and 1974 Plymouth Satellite/Satellite Sebring/ Sebring Plus/RR/ GTX as an undercollected car to watch.

Just my two cents worth. In my opinion, having lived the era and knowing the kids responses to the 73 and 74 Roadrunners, those two years are still muscle car years. (back then, taking the emissions crap out of the engine was still legal, and easy to do).

What would I look for in buying a car: DEFINITELY look at the rear quarters, look at the trunk extensions (you can still buy those in repops, if I remember they're the same for the Chargers). If it says Roadunner but has a standard dash package, that's your first signal that it's a clone. Only the RR and Satty Sebrings came with the Rallye dash option. And far too many people have cut that rallye dash side by side radio knob area out to mod for an aftermarket radio. I wouldn't get too hung up on the vin numbers or the broadcast sheet...use that as a base, something to work off. Remember, dealers back in the day would receive these cars--many times--unfinished from the factory, and would have to finish the work with parts on hand. Plymouth factories were pretty crappy about their finished product, and I've heard stories from men who worked the Plymouth Car lots back in the day about getting cars without steering wheels, engines, and trannys.

If it's got a halo roof, check the rear deck for rust... the vinyl and the trim on those halo roofs pushed a lot of water down in to the rear deck areas, and you'll get a lot of rust problems near the quarterpanels and the rear deck area. The Canopy vinyl is cool, the halo vinyl tops are nice for sleeper cars in my opinion, and add a bit of variety to the line. EVERYONE is cloning the Sattys into RR's, and I'd make sure it's the horse it says it is.
 
I lived through the era too, and there's no doubt that 73-74 cars were just as good as any car made before that. The 73 redesign was only because of new bumper design requirements that became mandatory in 1973 or else the 73-74 cars would have looked exactly the same as the 71-72 models. In my opinion the end of the muscle cars for Mopar wasn't until 1975. That was when we lost what the definition of a muscle car was, that being a full-sized car with high-performance equipment. The Belvedere/Satellite platform was out and we got the mid-size Fury in 1975 and the Volare in 76. And I've been reading articles and lists saying 73-74 road runners were about to become The Next Big Thing in collecting going back to the early 1990s, but thankfully that hasn't happened yet.

As for Googling for information, that's not a good determiner. :( You can Google muscle cars and see hundreds of references to Mustangs, 'Cudas, Challengers, Camaros, Firebirds, Corvettes, and other cars that were never muscle cars when they were made. In the 1960s and 1970s, muscle cars were big, overweight, glorified grocery getters. All the "cool factor" belonged to the Mustangs and their clones ('Cudas, Challengers, Camaros, and Firebirds) and calling those cars muscle cars was fighting words back then. They were all known as Pony cars, referring to their Mustang heritage, and those guys wanted nothing to do with muscle cars. What they did want was to be associated with the sports car guys, which was why you saw repeated attempts to get Mustangs and the other ponies involved in sports car racing (AAR and TA ring a bell?) but never, ever, did you see an effort to get them into NASCAR because NASCAR was where the muscle cars went. Then the worm turned in the 1980s and calling your ride a pony or sports car became pretty lame and calling it a muscle car sounded cool, and all of a sudden you had the pony and sports car crowds rewriting history and jumping into the muscle car pool. Nothing I like better than talking to so some grey haired Mustang or Camaro owner at a muscle event and complimenting them on their pony car. They get even madder when I ask them why they brought a pony to a muscle event. :) Yes... some of us remember the old days quite well.

Back to the 72 vs 73 question though, just look at the pricing guides. You have high prices until you hit 73, then they start dropping off steeply. Like I said, I personally disagree, but that has been the conventional wisdom for decades and as long as it keeps prices for 73/74 cars lower I could care less what the conventional wisdom is. :)
 
A good body/metal fab guy can fix it with raw sheet metal....
 
my rr has plenty of power n got i love the body style of 73-74 thats y i have 3 of them lol just wish there were more mopar guys in nd mostly gm n ford guys
 
Bring a fridge magnet with you... the rubber kind that wont scratch. If it dont stick to a trouble spot... it's trouble.
 
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