My 1969 Ivy Green Roadrunner 383 4 speed

[99ss]

I hit them with a pick end of a hammer all up and down to look for weak spots and didn't find any....

Thanks Roger is if you find the contact info let me know. 250 a rail isn't as bad as $399 but if I can get out cheaper than that it would be great ! I supposed I could replace both rails as well as it doesnt look that hard to do at this point anyway. I'm waiting to hear back from Wildcat though, they might have a whole back half for me. They wont cut a good rail but might have the section I need with a bad front section so we'll see on that too
thx for the help guys

 

[Basket case]

I have seen used rails at The Nats for $150 each, so shop around.

 

[99ss]

Whats the hole for?

AMD frame rail 399



US Made ebay frame rail end section $212 shipped


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View attachment 142767View attachment 142768

 

[Ron 73]

I didn't check mine at all points, but the holes are the same as the factory rail original.. at least the front ones for sure.. The AMD rail is the best one if your replacing the whole thing but the shipping is murder legal
That 1/2 rail is the one i mentioned to you and its a pretty good deal for what your looking for, I would sand blast both rails good and that way you know exactly what you need...

 

[mikeyfrano]

it seems as though nobody likes green until they see metallic ivy green, then its like "I love that color of green!"

 

[Ron 73]

A lot of my parts came from Sherman and the shipping was 189 bucks for everything, the drivers side rail from AMD cost me exactly 189 bucks to just get it shipped..

 

[Basket case]

check with Jeff at 521, he's great.

 

[99ss]

I'm gonna get some pics of the used full rail from wildcat... they are 250 and are local to me.. the ebay half rails are 212 shipped
It kind of makes more sense to get them and either replace the whole rail or cut them and sell the half I don't need.

Wildcat has this piece for 400 but it looks almost as bad as what I just cut off, maybe its just the pictures but, it sure looks like some serious rot on there not just surface rust


I can get that 5 pieces lower cross base unit new for 235 shipped and the lower light bar is 202... and then the frame rails come in at 500...
I guess I need to check that section out and see if it is rot or I can use it. It would save 500... but it looks to be not a great looking piece

 

[wannadrag]

Some serious issues:
View attachment 142657View attachment 142658
The frame rail ends are rotted I need the last 2 feet or so of them and the don't make patches for it. You have to buy the whole rails at $399 each or find donors. I am looking for donors or specs so I can fab my own

This is a major issue with no money...LOL I need $1000 worth of sheet-metal to finish the body not counting a fender and deck lid.

IF someone needs frame rails but not the whole thing let me know and we can work a deal on a set


Found used rails at Wildcat for 250/piece .. which is better but I hate to cut a good rail for only 2 feet of them and its still $500 more than I have

New rear rails from mid hump back $175 each and they do fit as I used one for the GTX I did.They sell all brands of sheet metal.

http://cooltruckparts.com/263.aspx

 

[Budnicks]

I hit them with a pick end of a hammer all up and down to look for weak spots and didn't find any....

Thanks Roger is if you find the contact info let me know. 250 a rail isn't as bad as $399 but if I can get out cheaper than that it would be great ! I supposed I could replace both rails as well as it doesnt look that hard to do at this point anyway. I'm waiting to hear back from Wildcat though, they might have a whole back half for me. They wont cut a good rail but might have the section I need with a bad front section so we'll see on that too
thx for the help guys

I'd wait & save a little more $$$ & I'd go with the new or repop stuff, see if you can get dimensions, thicknesses & reference them with the AMD or 521restoration stuff parts suppliers, over a rusty old part from a wrecker, the cheaper price isn't really worth it, you'll be starting with a much better product, unless you dead set on prepping, drilling, cleaning, grinding, scraping, blasting sanding, then priming & painting etc., the old rusty original style junk yard frame rails, that have been exposed to weather/corrosion & rust for the last 44 years... I think you'll be way ahead, with the new stuff, even if it's a little more money... my $0.02 cents

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it seems as though nobody likes green until they see metallic ivy green, then its like "I love that color of green!"

I love all the Mopar greens myself...

 

[Basket case]

I love all the Mopar greens myself...[/QUOTE]


Xs 2!

 

[99ss]

$238/shipped ...on da way



6 major things left to purchase all AMD: 2 1/4 skins., 2 trunk floor extensions/drop downs, 1 lower light panel, 1 tail light mount.

Maybe a side floor brace for the back floor on the passengers side .. .. Its just money..LOL

The BMW is up for sale for 3k.. that should get me the sheet-metal and various odds and ends and maybe a running 383

 

[Ron 73]

Got to love a all in one deal! Good find, hope it all fits on the spot for you!

 

[99ss]

Thanx Ron, The whole rest of everything is being replace back there so there will be some wiggle room.
The guy who sells them said he has sold 10 of them recently and no one has complained at all which is unusual...LOL He gets complaints most of the time it doesn't matter if its an American stamped piece or AMD.. people complain but he hasn't had any complaints about the brace so I'm, hopefull...LOL
I am going to use AMD though for the rest of it though.. the skins and dropdowns and light bar

 

[99ss]

I was framed !

It was like Christmas here today as a couple of big pieces came in. Slowly acquiring the parts to put it back together.

I do have a question though as to how it goes together.


They looks to be decent pieces

( side note.. That's an 18" wheel on the Camaro... look at the massive brake rotor...LOL)

Took a measurement on center so I get them back in the same spot


This is an issue though. I'm guess this cross brace sits flat on the rail ends?



I figure to splice in the new rail right about here. I dotn want to ruin the cross brace trying to free it from the rail and the rail is fine. I only really need like 15% of the new piece but might as well use what easy to install.



I am going to get new leaf spring perches for the back as well, they will be compromised by me removing them from the frame so I'll need to replace them as well....

 

[747mopar]

Looks to me like that ear is just oversized and may need trimmed (not uncommon to have to trim). If you spice them together I'd be sure to check they're compatability before cutting the new ones "might not be a perfect match". I'd also cut the old ones and get a look up into the rails to be sure they aren't rough up further. Good luck

 

[99ss]

Floored

Got busy drilling out the spot welds and popping the floor up.



Found that if I drive a piece of plywood in between the rail and floor I can pop whats left of the weld without mangling the floor to much as I was doing with the prybar.






Just need to measure and then mark and cut the rails and its welding time. I almost want to replace the whole trunk floor but 78% of it is fine and they done sell front and back only left and right so...... I'll be patching some of the trunk floor.

I need to get my big jackstand from my friend so I can put the car up and drop the leaf mount/brackets.. Might be able to save them after all

 

[Ron 73]

I have to ask Chris, wouldn't it be easier to take the shock tower off and use the 1/2 rails into the existing front, im not understanding how you plan to cut the rails and weld them onto whats left i just thought it might be easier is all with the tabs that gos into the front section of your rails up in the hump area..

 

[99ss]

I thought about that but removing the shock brace .. could mess it up and then I have to buy a new one at 248. Believe me if the money was there it would be a lot easier to do the whole trunk floor and rails and shock tower brace all at once but that's another $600 and most of whats there is fine. Just some surface rust on it. That shock tower brace doesn't look to easy to pull out either and I'm afraid I'm getting in over my head.

But I would do the cut before the trunk floor cross brace

 

[Ron 73]

I certainly can relate to the money part of this, as far as taking it off, its not to hard with the splatter welds the factory used underneath, i used a grinder to get them off and above there is i believe two spot welds on each side, on a lip thats on the rail itself, the lip im talking about isint on your new rails you have to put those on yourself.. The price for one is something, and then the shipping thats crazy if you would have to have a new one.. I can see your point, actually maybe you could make the same kind of tabs and weld them on the rail where you cut it so it slides in the same way it would up in the hump into the original rail where you cut it. Or going to cut it and then you can weld inside and outside just as it would be using the whole thing.