Scratching my head on this problem.

[66Satellite_in_NC]

Just installed a Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributor in my satellite and have a problem. I set the mark on the crank to 0 TDC and then checked the distributor rotor and made sure that it was pointing to the #1 cylinder on the cap. After removing the old dizzy I installed the new Pertronix and then tried to set timing to the recommended 10 BTDC. This thing first off wouldn't idle at 500RPM, I had to fiddle with it to get it idle but when I checked the timing was way off.

When I check the dwell with my meter, it shows it at 10 degrees where as the manual says it should be between 28-32 degrees @ 500RPM. The only way for me to get in that range is to kick in the fast idle and then it actually gets close to the dwell it should be at idle.

I've sent an e-mail to Pertronix but they won't answer my question until probably Tuesday or Wednesday. I received springs and metal tabs that the instructions said was for mechanical advance and advance limiters.

Did anyone who put a Pertronix on their Poly's have to do anything other than just plug and go?

Thanks Bill

 

[emore]

The Dwell angle is a term for dist. with points, not an electronic type of dist. And if you did have points and the dwell angle changed from 10-30 by increasing the idle, it would mean your dist is shot. Dwell was set by adjusting the points and should stay steady through out the rpm range.

 

[69Bee]

You didn't mention what part number you got, engine size, whether or not you are still using the factory ignition box or not.

The distributors I looked up are for high performance and racing according to them. The idle issue is more than likely due to too light of springs for the mechanical advance weights. The weights are all of the way out, and when you try to idle it down, the idle is too low for it to keep running.

As Emore pointed out, dwell is related to a point system. The dwell is the amount of crankshaft degrees that the points are closed. The loner they are closed (higher dwell), the more the coil charges, and thus produces a hotter spark. The dwell they refer to is the amount of time that a spark is being produced. This is akin to the MSD boxes; the boxes will produce a spark pulse, but upon higher RPM's, a longer 20 degree spark pulse is used to try to completely burn the entire charge. There was also something about multiple pulses, but without re-reading, I cannot remember completely.

You state that you just swapped the distributors, and tried to set the timing, but what I am reading on their site is that their ignition module replaces the complete ignition system. Did you do this, or just wire it into the existing system?

In my opinion, I do not like these gimmicky things. I once used a Mallry Hy-fire or some crap, and it fit in the distributor like this. It died in about 30 days, physically coming apart. After that, I If I wanted a hotter ignition box, I would use the tested and tried MSD 6AL box. I did, and it worked flawlessly. I also ran my setup so that I could unplug the MSD box, and plug the original orange Chrysler module back in if I ran into problems. I did have one issue with my first MSD box, and they replaced the entire setup without any questions asked. Never had an issue after that.

Hope this helps...

 

[66Satellite_in_NC]

You didn't mention what part number you got, engine size, whether or not you are still using the factory ignition box or not.

The distributors I looked up are for high performance and racing according to them. The idle issue is more than likely due to too light of springs for the mechanical advance weights. The weights are all of the way out, and when you try to idle it down, the idle is too low for it to keep running.

As Emore pointed out, dwell is related to a point system. The dwell is the amount of crankshaft degrees that the points are closed. The loner they are closed (higher dwell), the more the coil charges, and thus produces a hotter spark. The dwell they refer to is the amount of time that a spark is being produced. This is akin to the MSD boxes; the boxes will produce a spark pulse, but upon higher RPM's, a longer 20 degree spark pulse is used to try to completely burn the entire charge. There was also something about multiple pulses, but without re-reading, I cannot remember completely.

You state that you just swapped the distributors, and tried to set the timing, but what I am reading on their site is that their ignition module replaces the complete ignition system. Did you do this, or just wire it into the existing system?

In my opinion, I do not like these gimmicky things. I once used a Mallry Hy-fire or some crap, and it fit in the distributor like this. It died in about 30 days, physically coming apart. After that, I If I wanted a hotter ignition box, I would use the tested and tried MSD 6AL box. I did, and it worked flawlessly. I also ran my setup so that I could unplug the MSD box, and plug the original orange Chrysler module back in if I ran into problems. I did have one issue with my first MSD box, and they replaced the entire setup without any questions asked. Never had an issue after that.

Hope this helps...

Pertronix # D141700

I went to the Yahoo Poly forum and was told that I could use a LA318 distributor setup and it would drop right into my poly 318. I basically just removed my distributor w/points and installed the Pertronix Distributor. I wired up according to the instructions that was furnished. I am using my stock coil and by passed the ballast resistor. It won't idle for crap and can't get it timed properly.

 

[dryheat]

Since this is an electronic ignition there is no reason to check the dwell ... it's pointless ;-}.

If you bypassed the ballast then you should be using a non-stock coil ... like the flame thrower II.

 

[66Satellite_in_NC]

Since this is an electronic ignition there is no reason to check the dwell ... it's pointless ;-}.

If you bypassed the ballast then you should be using a non-stock coil ... like the flame thrower II.

LOL, I get your point. I jumped the gun and tried using it without the Flame thrower coil which is supposed to arrive on Tuesday. I hope that it takes care of my problem.

If I used the term dwell incorrectly, I apologize but I thought dwell was the term used for the amount of time that the points stay closed to allow the coil to energize and then when the trigger happens the coil field collapses? Wouldn't this still hold true even though the points were replaced with an electronic trigger instead?

 

[dryheat]

That is exactly what dwell means ... but here is some info from the Pertronix site ...

"A powerful micro controller with adaptive dwell algorithms allows the Ignitor II to adjust the dwell angle in order to maintain peak energy throughout the entire RPM range for increased high and low RPM performance."

It's auto-magic!

 

[66Satellite_in_NC]

I hear ya, By reading a lot of posts around the internet and the Pertronix site last night, I found that there are users who report that the OEM coil would be fine and others report that the Pertronix coil is needed due to the way that it can charge up in a smaller amount of time than an OEM one can. When the new coil shows up I'll find out and post back in the thread, I was just worried that there might be something wrong with the distributor or something else that needed to be done to it to get it to work properly.

I also heard from a member on the Yahoo forum that since my car is not a std option (poly 318 with 4 barrel) that I would need to set timing to around 15° ATDC or in that area to get the best performance. I was told something similar in another post here and well, my mind sometimes doesn't remember the little things.

 

[khryslerkid]

That is exactly what dwell means ... but here is some info from the Pertronix site ...

"A powerful micro controller with adaptive dwell algorithms allows the Ignitor II to adjust the dwell angle in order to maintain peak energy throughout the entire RPM range for increased high and low RPM performance."

It's auto-magic!

Is there a Misscombobulator in there somewhere?

 

[TekHousE]

"Illudium Q-36 Explosive Space Modulator"

 

[66Satellite_in_NC]

update....got the Pertronix coil and installed it, same problem with impossible idling, started checking for vacuum problems and found that after removing the carb spacer and installing the carb directly to the manifold that my problems have substantially cleared up. Why it decided to start leaking is still a head scratcher since I didn't have to touch the carb to install anything but glad that it showed up now and not out on the road somewhere.

The carb spacer has no name or markings on it and I was just trying to systematically check/change things after I plugged all of the vacuum ports on the carb and it would still not give me a good idle and the vacuum gauge I was using to test with was all over the place.

I'm pretty sure that the PO had the spacer installed due to some type of issue with percolation (Florida car). I can get it to idle down to 500RPM but still hear a slight vacuum hiss coming from the area around the carb and when I spray anything around the carb base I can hear it change idle. I ordered additional carb base gaskets because it looked good but I didn't have a spare, hopefully it will fix the problem.

I will more than likely be ordering the new SS poly intake and swap out the current intake manifold (cast iron?) and hopefully be done with that issue before the hot NC summers take root.

Thanks for the help, you guys are great in helping new members figure out their problems.

Bill