issue or not?

[coronet340]

i have finally started taking the 40+ years of paint of the ol gal and found this.
being that this is the first time i've ever even messed with body stuff i would like to know if this is an issue. major or minor?
i know the correct answer "the Donny" answer is to have it sand blasted. lol. but i'm not in a position to pull this car apart and just want a clean driver for the time being. but is there a way to remove it or should i just let it ride? i hit with the wire wheel after i used it to remove the paint but it was pretty stubborn. and being that its on a corner i was afraid to overwork the area and create a flat spot. some mild steel wool did not address the issue either.
thanks in advance!!





ps being that i have just started on this section i am kind of assuming the rest of the body is going to have a similar issue
pps sorry my camera sucks on my phone. i can get better pictures in the morning.

 

[Jonnyuma]

I'm looking at your pictures on a tiny 2" screen so its hard to tell exactly what the issue/remedy is. But, if you want to sandblast a small area there are spot blasters available and believe me, they are VERY handy to have around.

 

[cwhubb]

weird little stain, if it never bled through the original paint job i wouldn't worry unless its pitted. like johnny said spot blast works good, if you ever have to blast a large body panel be careful not to warp it.

 

[Propwash]

That's black oxidation...aka rust. Yes, blasting would cure that, but if that's not an option you need to remove or at least neutralize it. It will come back to haunt you if you don't. Honestly, I would either take a heavier grit sander disc or flapper wheel and hit it till it was gone. It would probably require a skim coat over that area to level it all back out. If you really don't feel like digging into it, I would at least neutralize it with some sort of acid based rust dissolver. You could also use an encapsulator to seal it as well... Again, blasting would be the best route. Next to that would be sanding or grinding out. Next down the list would be the rust dissolver and encapsulator.

If you have rust there, without a doubt it's hiding under your paint, and waiting to pop out in other areas as well. Good luck which ever route you go.

 

[coronet340]

That's black oxidation...aka rust. Yes, blasting would cure that, but if that's not an option you need to remove or at least neutralize it. It will come back to haunt you if you don't. Honestly, I would either take a heavier grit sander disc or flapper wheel and hit it till it was gone. It would probably require a skim coat over that area to level it all back out. If you really don't feel like digging into it, I would at least neutralize it with some sort of acid based rust dissolver. You could also use an encapsulator to seal it as well... Again, blasting would be the best route. Next to that would be sanding or grinding out. Next down the list would be the rust dissolver and encapsulator.

If you have rust there, without a doubt it's hiding under your paint, and waiting to pop out in other areas as well. Good luck which ever route you go.

well if i have to dig it out i'd rather just get spot blaster like JONNYUMA said. and i am really thinking that the whole car is going to look like it has AIDS with black legions everywhere unless i just started in the worst spot. damn time to get a new toy. shucks. lol

 

[eric383]

Any idea if that was under the original paint? If it was it's kinda weird that it didn't cause the paint to blister or pop. It's not pinholes through the metal is it? If there are no pinholes have you thought about hitting it with a rust converter like Ospho and after at least 1 day, scuffing the area and shooting it with epoxy primer. Here is some interesting reading. You will probably have to use some kinda glaze also to cover the imperfections.http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ospho-solution-rust-removal-175465.html

 

[coronet340]

Any idea if that was under the original paint? If it was it's kinda weird that it didn't cause the paint to blister or pop. It's not pinholes through the metal is it? If there are no pinholes have you thought about hitting it with a rust converter like Ospho and after at least 1 day, scuffing the area and shooting it with epoxy primer. Here is some interesting reading. You will probably have to use some kinda glaze also to cover the imperfections.http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/ospho-solution-rust-removal-175465.html

That was one of my two conclusion. My other being that since this car came for north Georgia where it sat under a pole barn. There are some pretty acidic leaves around there. But under the top layer of primer all the way through the factory yellow paint job that was in good shape bumper to bumper. And I have a hard time believing that leaf acid could sep (sp) through without messing the paint up. I think the piece may have been the beginning of a roll. Cool story anyways. lol
Like I said it looks like its at minimum all over that quarter panel. The whole car may look like that under the paint.

 

[eric383]

I guess it all depends on what type of paint job this is gonna be. Show quality or a nice driver paint job. If this paint hasn't popped and you don't have a bunch of layers of paint and you are looking for a nice driver then sand, primer, prep for color and shoot your color. If you have the time then strip it and go from there. Like an old timer once told me....if the original paint has no sign of losing adhesion after this long then use it for your base if you want to get it back on the road. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[dvw]

I was successful using metal prep and a scotch brite pad. Lay a wet soaked paper towel over the top and let it sit. Deep pits can be cleaned out with an Exacto knife. I even got brave with a small pointed carbide. I had some pitted rust where my body side moldings had rubbed through. It actually went fairly quick.
Doug

 

[coronet340]

I guess it all depends on what type of paint job this is gonna be. Show quality or a nice driver paint job. If this paint hasn't popped and you don't have a bunch of layers of paint and you are looking for a nice driver then sand, primer, prep for color and shoot your color. If you have the time then strip it and go from there. Like an old timer once told me....if the original paint has no sign of losing adhesion after this long then use it for your base if you want to get it back on the road. Just my 2 cents worth.

more then i'd like. original paint, plus a green paint job with a pretty heavy clear and then another layer of thick primer. i am not going to go for a show car for many years if ever. i want to build a pretty nice driver. but i will be painting the car myself but i have never painted anything this big. but i do have a bit of time to do this so i'm not too worried about it.

- - - Updated - - -

I was successful using metal prep and a scotch brite pad. Lay a wet soaked paper towel over the top and let it sit. Deep pits can be cleaned out with an Exacto knife. I even got brave with a small pointed carbide. I had some pitted rust where my body side moldings had rubbed through. It actually went fairly quick.
Doug

thanks a lot man. i'll give this a shot.

 

[eric383]

What I like to do with rust is sand it down and if there are any pits then Ospho. Let it sit for a day then scuff and use paint prep. Epoxy primer over that then filler, more epoxy primer, sand and if it's straight, color and clear or if I'm on a real budget some single stage. Just remember if the primer isn't smooth it will telegraph through the paint. If moisture and oxygen can't get to rust it will not grow.

 

[coronet340]

What I like to do with rust is sand it down and if there are any pits then Ospho. Let it sit for a day then scuff and use paint prep. Epoxy primer over that then filler, more epoxy primer, sand and if it's straight, color and clear or if I'm on a real budget some single stage. Just remember if the primer isn't smooth it will telegraph through the paint. If moisture and oxygen can't get to rust it will not grow.

thanks. got the go ahead from the accountant on a spot blaster. after i blast it if its clean should i still do a rust treatment?? so a layer of epoxy THEN filler? filler as in a filling primer? then epoxy again? i will probably drive it for a year or two with primer. so do a sealing primer after that correct?

 

[eric383]

If it looks clean after blasting I wouldn't bother with the Ospho. The SPI epoxy has great adhesion properties and follow the cleaning recommendations per the tech sheet. If there are small pits you can see after applying the epoxy you can use a finishing glaze like Evercoat Metal Glaze and more epoxy on top of that after blocking the filler out. If It's not that bad then apply the epoxy and drive it. When you are ready to put some color on it, then follow the tech sheets and apply your filler then.

 

[dvw]

thanks. got the go ahead from the accountant on a spot blaster. after i blast it if its clean should i still do a rust treatment?? so a layer of epoxy THEN filler? filler as in a filling primer? then epoxy again? i will probably drive it for a year or two with primer. so do a sealing primer after that correct?

Scary, Scary with the blaster. Been there done that. The panel will pull right towards the nozzle. I say NO NO NO. Take the time to clean it out by hand.
Doug

 

[coronet340]

?? that blaster will warp my car?

 

[eric383]

Is this the little hand held spot blaster? Hopefully your air comp is large enough to keep up with it. The biggest culprit of panel warp is high pressure, staying in one place too long and blasting straight on(90 degrees) instead of blasting at an angle(45 degrees). The pros can get by with their methods because of their experience and blasting materials. If you do go this route blast at an angle and get some black beauty for your blast media. I wouldn't use sand because of the danger of Silicosis(inhaling airborne sand is very dangerous). Whenever you blast always wear some kind of mask.