1970 Satellite 4-Speed Conversion...

[Lighthorseman]

Well, I have been following NJRR's thread on his conversion from an automatic to a 4-speed, found here: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?70157-70-rr-4-speed-conversion-update

I figured maybe I should start one of my own, since I'm doing almost the same thing to my '70 Satellite.

So - without further ado, here comes the CAVEAT...

I am a serious newbie, and really don't know what I'm doing. I am more in this for help than I am to tell anyone "How it's done".

That being said, I thought I'd document as I go along, and perhaps with the help of FBBO members, I won't screw it up.

One of the first things I found was the Dodgecharger.com thread on 4-speed conversions here: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95764.0.html
It's a fantastic thread, but I find that it still assumes you know what you're doing. I found many references confusing, didn't know half of what they were talking about, and wound up having to dig up information all over the place.

Here is what I have to start with:

Some basics - it's a factory 383 / auto, column shifted, bench seat car with power brakes, windows and air. Yes, I put a Road Runner bird on it. Sue me. It's my car.

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So, I mentioned the idea of a 4-speed swap, and my wife said two things immediately came to mind. Firstly, it would be really cool as a 4-speed. Secondly, she said with a chuckle, it's going to take you three years to do it. I told her I could do it in two or less.

Not too long after, she handed me this:

"If you're going to see it through, I want this to go on last", she said, as she handed it over. Challenge accepted!

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So, I got to looking around, and found a guy in the 'States who sold 4-speed conversion sets, consisting of virtually everything needed. As I go along, I am finding that there are always little bits and pieces that are either the wrong size, or are just not there.

Anyhow, as summer came to a close, my 4-speed "crate of goodies" showed up, including:

The transmission, bellhousing, pedals, Hurst pistol grip shifter and rods, 4-speed hump, tourque bar, flywheel, and more. Pretty much the only thing I was missing was a clutch, which I wanted to get separately anyway. There were a few small things missing, but more on that later.

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So, I have an engine stand, and a friend has a hoist. We switch off back and forth as needed, so I gave him a call, and picked up the hoist. He had just finished using my engine stand for his Mustang, so I had both at my disposal.

So, never having done this before, I took as many pictures as I could, kept safety first and foremost, and moved forward.

Most of you can likely yank an engine in a matter of a few hours - or less, but it took me quite a lot longer. Finally...

...and yes - I have since moved the hood around so it's not sitting on the corners.

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Once the engine was out, I dropped the 727, and here we are:

I got in there with spray-nine, windex, etc. and cleaned up as best I could whenever I had free time.

 

[GTX MATT]

Its pretty straight forward. My advice here - WHEN YOU CUT THE FLOOR PLAN FOR THE HUMP, DO NOT, and I repeat, DO NOT cut the sheet metal over the torsion bar cross member to follow the hump. Just cut around the cross member, it is supposed to form a "shelf" so to speak. DAMHIK.

Nice looking Satellrunner by the way :icon_thumright:

 

[Canadian1968CoronetR/T]

I too would like to do what you are doing I have got as far as buying a 18 spline trans, need every thing else, my car was originally a four speed from factory, so it has the z bar holder on frame. Do you have the email address of the fellow who sold you the conversion kit? I also have limited knowledge but would like to do it under a expert?

 

[440+6]

Beautiful car you have (I want a 70 Satty or road runner convert), the four speed will be fun for sure

 

[Lighthorseman]

See? I quote: "WHEN YOU CUT THE FLOOR PLAN FOR THE HUMP, DO NOT, and I repeat, DO NOT cut the sheet metal over the torsion bar cross member to follow the hump. Just cut around the cross member, it is supposed to form a "shelf" so to speak. "...

I had no idea. I haven't gotten there yet, so this is something I will be watching out for! There's a newbie mistake I won't make. Thanks, Mr. GTXMatt!

...and 68 Coronet guy, I will try to dig it up and PM you.

 

[NJRR]

Thanks for that tip too. I will def keep it in mind when I get that far.

Its pretty straight forward. My advice here - WHEN YOU CUT THE FLOOR PLAN FOR THE HUMP, DO NOT, and I repeat, DO NOT cut the sheet metal over the torsion bar cross member to follow the hump. Just cut around the cross member, it is supposed to form a "shelf" so to speak. DAMHIK.

Nice looking Satellrunner by the way :icon_thumright:

 

[bigblock]

I've done several. Keep posting pics of that gorgeous car! If you can find another 4 speed car,look under it to get a better idea of where to cut the floor out. You will have to weld on a frame side bracket for the torque rod(Z bar) then you get to clean and paint around it. LOL.

 

[GTX MATT]

See? I quote: "WHEN YOU CUT THE FLOOR PLAN FOR THE HUMP, DO NOT, and I repeat, DO NOT cut the sheet metal over the torsion bar cross member to follow the hump. Just cut around the cross member, it is supposed to form a "shelf" so to speak. "...

I had no idea. I haven't gotten there yet, so this is something I will be watching out for! There's a newbie mistake I won't make. Thanks, Mr. GTXMatt!

...and 68 Coronet guy, I will try to dig it up and PM you.

No problem, its easier to go around it to, but sometimes when you trace something and cut it out you get too focused on it.

68CoronetGuy, you will need:

A pedal assembly, make sure it has the over-center spring and its retainer pin if you plan to use a Borg and Beck 3 finger clutch
Clutch pedal pushrod
Z bar (or torque shaft)
The ball studs that bolt to the frame bracket and bellhousing
The plastic bushings that go over the ball studs and the wire retaining clip that holds the outer one in place on the Z bar
A bellhousing
A clutch fork and boot (make sure you have a pivot for it in the bellhousing also)
A clutch
A flywheel
A throw out bearing
A clutch fork pushrod, adjusting lock nut, and the washer and bushing that pops in the clutch fork
Shift rods
A shifter
A top and bottom shift boot, as well as the retainer ring and a chrome bezel if you're not running a console.
The clips plastic washers (3) that hold the clutch pushrod to the clutch pedal and the z bar, and the clutch fork pushrod to the z bar.

That should be almost everything. If you guys have any questions feel free to PM me I just finished converting my car.

 

[tallhair]

No problem, its easier to go around it to, but sometimes when you trace something and cut it out you get too focused on it.

68CoronetGuy, you will need:

A pedal assembly, make sure it has the over-center spring and its retainer pin if you plan to use a Borg and Beck 3 finger clutch
Clutch pedal pushrod
Z bar (or torque shaft)
The ball studs that bolt to the frame bracket and bellhousing
The plastic bushings that go over the ball studs and the wire retaining clip that holds the outer one in place on the Z bar
A bellhousing
A clutch fork and boot (make sure you have a pivot for it in the bellhousing also)
A clutch
A flywheel
A throw out bearing
A clutch fork pushrod, adjusting lock nut, and the washer and bushing that pops in the clutch fork
Shift rods
A shifter
A top and bottom shift boot, as well as the retainer ring and a chrome bezel if you're not running a console.
The clips plastic washers (3) that hold the clutch pushrod to the clutch pedal and the z bar, and the clutch fork pushrod to the z bar.

That should be almost everything. If you guys have any questions feel free to PM me I just finished converting my car.

Nice job Matt .. and one more thing

Also you need the retainer ring for the bottom boot even if your are running a console

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Well, I have been following NJRR's thread on his conversion from an automatic to a 4-speed, found here: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?70157-70-rr-4-speed-conversion-update

I love you car lighthorse and am looking forward to your conversion .. .love me some 70 Plymouth's and B body converts in general hehehe. I bought one of the emblems myself from YO on my last order View attachment 180747

 

[GTX MATT]

Also you need the retainer ring for the bottom boot even if your are running a console

Affirmative, what I meant to say was the chrome ring is only required for non-consoles :headbang:

 

[440+6]

No problem, its easier to go around it to, but sometimes when you trace something and cut it out you get too focused on it.

68CoronetGuy, you will need:

A pedal assembly, make sure it has the over-center spring and its retainer pin if you plan to use a Borg and Beck 3 finger clutch
Clutch pedal pushrod
Z bar (or torque shaft)
The ball studs that bolt to the frame bracket and bellhousing
The plastic bushings that go over the ball studs and the wire retaining clip that holds the outer one in place on the Z bar
A bellhousing
A clutch fork and boot (make sure you have a pivot for it in the bellhousing also)
A clutch
A flywheel
A throw out bearing
A clutch fork pushrod, adjusting lock nut, and the washer and bushing that pops in the clutch fork
Shift rods
A shifter
A top and bottom shift boot, as well as the retainer ring and a chrome bezel if you're not running a console.
The clips plastic washers (3) that hold the clutch pushrod to the clutch pedal and the z bar, and the clutch fork pushrod to the z bar.

That should be almost everything. If you guys have any questions feel free to PM me I just finished converting my car.

Driveshaft?

 

[tallhair]

Driveshaft?

The driveshaft is the same for 727 and A833 ...

 

[GTX MATT]

The driveshaft is the same for 727 and A833 ...

I agree, same driveshaft

 

[pistol_grip_polara]

I did a four speed conversion in my '64 and will be taking it all out and putting in my '63.. Best place to get parts you need or any advice is here ---> http://www.brewersperformance.com/

Good luck with the conversion and well worth it in my opinion..

 

[Lighthorseman]

I did a four speed conversion in my '64 and will be taking it all out and putting in my '63.. Best place to get parts you need or any advice is here ---> http://www.brewersperformance.com/

Good luck with the conversion and well worth it in my opinion..

I'd have to agree. I needed the ballstuds and frame bracket, as well as the clutch pedal firewall-bracket thingy. They got it out to me quickly. Those seem to be the only parts I needed that weren't included in the kit.

I have a couple of days off this week - I work out of town - and hope to update. I'd like to put the 4 speed and bellhousing in, and find out just where the frame bracket goes.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

You have been good information as for parts needed, And using Brewer Performance online store which is a wealth of information on correct parts. Correct parts are important for clutch linkage geometry IMO. I might add, be sure you have the correct clutch fork AND the correct pivot inside the bellhouse for the clutch fork. Not having that correct pivot was a real stumbling block for me. ..................................................MO

 

[old_skool]

Has anybody ever tried to adapt one of our oem tranny's to a cable or slave cylinder setup?

 

[NJRR]

When I picked up my 833 from Jamie Passon this past weekend, one of the things we discussed was the welding in of the ballstud frame bracket. That positioning is critical for correct alignment of the torque shaft (z-bar). He mentioned that some frames had a notch in them where the bracket gets welded in and that there was also an opening in the wheel well to get to the ballstud nut, which will help in the correct positioning.

I'd have to agree. I needed the ballstuds and frame bracket, as well as the clutch pedal firewall-bracket thingy. They got it out to me quickly. Those seem to be the only parts I needed that weren't included in the kit.

I have a couple of days off this week - I work out of town - and hope to update. I'd like to put the 4 speed and bellhousing in, and find out just where the frame bracket goes.

 

[GTX MATT]

Has anybody ever tried to adapt one of our oem tranny's to a cable or slave cylinder setup?

I don't know for sure but I believe there is a hydraulic throw out bearing available, I.E. it sits where the stock TOB does on the tranny shaft and its a hydraulic mechanism that presses the fingers on the clutch. Then you rig the clutch master to operate off of the clutch pedal.

 

[Lighthorseman]

So, life in general has gotten in the way as it usually does, but I have had time to make a little forward progress. I unbolted and moved the seat out, then pulled up the carpet. I test-fitted the 4-speed hump and was really happy to see that it just drops right into place.

I didn't get any of the ballstuds and brackets with the "kit" I found, so I ordered some, and they arrived soon enough.

While I was waiting for them to show up, I pulled the original pedals and after a fair bit of tinkering, I got them in. One problem I had was trying to figure out the whole over-centre spring installation. I had everything all backward, then thanks to someone's help, got it all sorted out. Here's a shot of how the setup looks:

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Next, I found the locating dimples in the firewall and drilled holes for the extra brace where the clutch pedal attaches to the floor.

Once that was done, it was just down to an endlessly tedious operation of re-bolting the pedals in...

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Then came time for the ballstud bracket installation. Searching the Internet, I found some great pictures showing just where it's supposed to go. A friend who is an accomplished welder dropped by and welded it all up for me. Here's the initial result...

...and after I cleaned it up and gave it a quick shot of rust paint...

I did NOT want to mess with a weld as important as the ballstud bracket, but did try my luck tacking in the 4-speed hump. Here's what I did - under close supervision.

After that, it was down to a quick cleaning, and voila!

Now, I'd just like to add that I did cut a hole in the floor for the shifter, but forgot to take a picture. At this point, I want to thank GTX Matt once more for the "do not cut the torsion bar crossmember" information. I was careful to avoid it, and had I not known, would likely have made a bloody great mess. Thanks again.