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re: 1969 Plymouth GTX rear suspension

uwss

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Question: I have a 4:10 dana60 ; I removed the air shocks and installed Viking shocks. I added air bags attached from the leaf springs to the frame. I have since added an Addco rear sway bar. ( I know Addco isn't the best but the price was very reasonable not to ) When I get on it, I can feel the rear lifting, is this typical ? I was hoping the rear end would be more solid. I, also, have caltracs, too.

air bags have about 70 psi in them

4 speed, 440 stroker 512 700 horses.
 
sounds like you have alot of counter productive stuff going on. yes with caltracs you should have some separation. what are you trying to do? i sure wouldn't have caltracs on something i want to do corning with (or ride quality). vise versa i wouldn't have all the other stuff if i was going is a straight line.
 
The air bags are supposed to keep the rear end level so more power is transferred to the ground. The old air shocks were worn out and I decided to go with the Viking shock since they are adjustable and rebuildable. Caltracs are supposed help transfer power to the wheels; eliminating leaf springs bending at the weakest point and help with axle wrap.
 
i know what caltracs do and how to make them work. this is my car. doesn't need air bags or a rear sway bar. those are best used on chevelles and mustangs.

_MBK6704-1.jpg
 
Good looking car!!!

thanks! so yes you the rear end will rise for the caltracs to work correctly. as you can see my car lifts a pretty good amount in the rear.

this is how it normally sits.
DSC_0226.jpg
 
Question: I have a 4:10 dana60 ; I removed the air shocks and installed Viking shocks. I added air bags attached from the leaf springs to the frame. I have since added an Addco rear sway bar. ( I know Addco isn't the best but the price was very reasonable not to ) When I get on it, I can feel the rear lifting, is this typical ? I was hoping the rear end would be more solid. I, also, have caltracs, too.

air bags have about 70 psi in them

4 speed, 440 stroker 512 700 horses.

UWSS,
I have to agree with 68 Hemi GTS. Unless you are going after a factory appearing car I would go Cal Tracs. No ifs, ands, or buts. I have been working on the rear suspension of my 66' Sat. My vision for my car is a factory appearing 1966 Plymouth Satellite which will be street driven with an occasional trip to the track. I to have a 440/512 that will make close to 600hp and 650tq.
Rear Suspension: MP XHD leaf springs, MP shackle kit, AR Engineering front hangers and reinforcement plates, ADDCO 7/8" sway bar, Rancho RS9000 shocks (9-way adjustable), MP shim kit, Mancini replacement U-bolts, and Mancini Racing adjustable pinion snubber. View attachment 183009
 
IMG_0642.jpgrobinsonwr, my setup is pretty much the same including the snubber. However, I added the airbags over the axle to keep the left and right side stable during a power take off. I have rebuild the 4 speed and I am in the process of rebuilding the front end. I am adding a front strut over the shock tower; all new ball joints. I do have one question ; do torsion bars go bad and do I need to replace them ? I am keeping the 11 inch front brakes for now. I am doing the 512 stroker; eagle 4340 crank with 4340 H rods, ATI balancer, haven't decided on rockers, cam, yet. I have a 6 pack setup but I am thinking of going with the single plane intake and a 950 carb.
 
View attachment 183280robinsonwr, my setup is pretty much the same including the snubber. However, I added the airbags over the axle to keep the left and right side stable during a power take off. I have rebuild the 4 speed and I am in the process of rebuilding the front end. I am adding a front strut over the shock tower; all new ball joints. I do have one question ; do torsion bars go bad and do I need to replace them ? I am keeping the 11 inch front brakes for now. I am doing the 512 stroker; eagle 4340 crank with 4340 H rods, ATI balancer, haven't decided on rockers, cam, yet. I have a 6 pack setup but I am thinking of going with the single plane intake and a 950 carb.

That is absolutely beautiful car. So far these are the components I am using for my 512 build:
Block: 1971 nonhp .060 overbore
Crank: Eagle 4.25 stroke (2.20 rod journals)
Rods: Eagle 7.1 h-beam (.990 pin)
Pistons: SRP
Compression: 10.5-11:1
Balancer: Professional Products 90013
Intake: Indy 4150 dual plane
Water Pump: (Housing)MP Performance Aluminum, (Pump) Milodon Aluminum
Oil Pan: Moroso 7 quart with pick up
Heads: 440 Source Stealth (929-16 springs, 741-16 retainers, 611-16 locks), ported 290cfm @ 600.
Camshaft: Hydraulic Roller, Comp Cam custom grind (ADV Duration 281-287,@ .050 230-236, lift 622I & 625E w/1.6 rockers. GRIND #: CRB3 3194 /3196 HR111.
Rocker Arms: Crane Cams Gold 1.6 (MP rocker hold downs)
lifters: Comp Cam 8921-16
Push Rods: Smith Bros. Custom
Carb: 950 CFM holley
Exhaust: 1968 HP Manifolds or Hooker 2" primary's
 
Why hydraulic roller vs solid roller on the camshaft ? Do torsion bars go bad ? Thanks for thumbs up on the picture. I am leaning towards a 11:1 compression. I have a 74 block that checked out ok. I am doing 30 over with the 512 stroker.

- - - Updated - - -

So whats the best setup for both worlds ? street and track.
 
Why hydraulic roller vs solid roller on the camshaft ? Do torsion bars go bad ? Thanks for thumbs up on the picture. I am leaning towards a 11:1 compression. I have a 74 block that checked out ok. I am doing 30 over with the 512 stroker.

- - - Updated - - -

So whats the best setup for both worlds ? street and track.

UWSS,
I love solid rollers but just wanted to try something different. I am hoping at the end of the day it will be a little more maintenance free than a solid roller. My car is a designated street car with the occasional 1320 in its future. I would suppose torsion bars react much like leaf springs in the fact that age will deteriorate the performance. I will change mine when I do the front suspension. Yes I want the best of both worlds but lean heavier towards streetability and drivability than all out performance.
 
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