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Upper ball joint removal

uwss

Well-Known Member
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Sep 5, 2012
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Location
Dallas, Texas
Is there a DIY way to do this without buying a tool that only be used once ? 69 GTX.
 
see if any place around you rents or lets you borrow the tool.oreily and others lend tools.
 
Most all the big box auto parts stores now have 'loaner tool programs'. Give them a credit card number, they loan you the tool/ kit for a specific job. You return the tool when done (undamaged and all pieces accounted for) and they credit your card back.\ the full amount.
 
You're almost close enough to borrow mine. :) But I've seen people use pipe wrenches on them before. Not exactly the best way. Impact and the right socket is usually the best way. Clean all the dirt off and flood it with penetrating oil a couple of times before going at it.
 
gotta have the right socket, rent it , buy it, using a pipe wrench is asking for trouble, especially when trying to get the new ones in straight,
 
Agree with Cranky. Prop up the upper control arm and bathe the ball joint in penetrating oil. My opinion, the socket will save you a lot of aggravation. Well worth the 30 bucks.
 
Almost a must due in car, it is why I have a 3/4 inch rachet with a long handle.
 
.....just did mine, get the socket man
 
I'm with Cranky - I use a 1/2" impact with the correct socket.
 
hunt2elk where do you go elk hunting ? I have been to New MeXico and Colorado. took my first bear in Colorado.

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Napa had the socket and the 3/4 to 1/2 " adapter from precision engineering. I soaked it in penetrating oil and put the impact to it. It came right loose. thanks everyone who chimed in.

Question: The car shows about 60k miles on it. Do I need to replace the torsion bars ? Do I need to reinforce the lower Control Arm and replace the bushings along the strut rod ?

Next, does it matter what color you paint all the raw metal.. FYI, the NAPA spray paint remover is bad ***. Do not get it on your skin; it will burn right through it.
 
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No need to replace the torsion bars or stiffen the lca's. However if you are looking to beef up the front end some, lca stiffening plates are an inexpensive item and really help, as do bigger torsion bars. Depends on your budget I guess. While you have everything apart I'd go ahead and replace all the bushings, they aren't a lot of money
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/products.asp?cat=7997
 
hunt2elk where do you go elk hunting ? I have been to New MeXico and Colorado. took my first bear in Colorado.

- - - Updated - - -

Napa had the socket and the 3/4 to 1/2 " adapter from precision engineering. I soaked it in penetrating oil and put the impact to it. It came right loose. thanks everyone who chimed in.

Question: The car shows about 60k miles on it. Do I need to replace the torsion bars ? Do I need to reinforce the lower Control Arm and replace the bushings along the strut rod ?

Next, does it matter what color you paint all the raw metal.. FYI, the NAPA spray paint remover is bad ***. Do not get it on your skin; it will burn right through it.
If you plan on autocrossing your car, it would be wise to stiffen your parts. It'll help reduce flex. I've never done any of mine and have never bent anything and many of my cars have taken flight and more than a few times but I was never real serious about max performance in cornering. As for color....if you are not concerned about a numbers matching as it came from the factory car....it doesn't matter.
 
hunt2elk where do you go elk hunting ?

I haven't gone for a few years now - my body is having a hard time climbing the hills out West the older I get lol. I was to several different places on the Western side of the Rockies in Colorado, but the last 8 times I was in the Missouri Breaks area of Montana. Always bowhunting.
 
If you plan on autocrossing your car, it would be wise to stiffen your parts. It'll help reduce flex. I've never done any of mine and have never bent anything and many of my cars have taken flight and more than a few times but I was never real serious about max performance in cornering. As for color....if you are not concerned about a numbers matching as it came from the factory car....it doesn't matter.

So If I understand everyones advice; replace the rubber and bushings in the torsion bars and LCA and add stiffening plate on bottom. Replace all the bushings.

I'll paint the upper control arm black and all other parts satin nickel.

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IS THE foam splash shield gasket necessary on the drum brakes ? and where the heck can you get one ?
 
Hello,
I just removed the ball joints from my upper controll arm. I welded a tube to the top of the ball joint. It will die anyway. Now you have a one meter arm and it will not skid off.

upper-controll-arm-remove.jpg

Loose the fist half turn counter clockwise than cut off the now needless 95 centimeter of the pipe.

upper-controll-arm-remove_2.jpg

Take a smaller pipe and with some back andt forth and a bath of of Mos2 the ball joint will come out.

upper-controll-arm-remove_3.jpg

The winding is still intact.

upper-controll-arm-remove_4.jpg

best
caspar
 
With a little bit of heat it will pop out by itself.

upper-controll-arm-remove_5.jpg
 
....shoot, never thought to pull one apart that way, but I did microwave a can of Hormel chilli once with the lid on.....
 
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