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Anyone Replace a Wiring Harnesses/fuse block With One Of the New After Market Kits?

soundhd

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Have a 70 RR convertible that I would like to replace the main wiring harnesses and fuse block with one of the new aftermarket kits (Painless/Ron Francis, etc...) it already has factory A/C. Want to add power windows/locks, nice sound system, alarm, electric fans, etc...and would need more circuits to do it right. Just wondering if anyone has done this.....fuse panel is next to the glove box and it is pretty small.....would need to place the fuse panel somewhere else.........any suggestions/advice would be appreciated.

thanks
 
I replaced everywire in my car with a ron francais kit. I had a mate who is a sparky to help me as I did not feel confident doing wiring, but if I sat down and thought about it I think it is accomplishable. every wire marked with what it goes to, detailed instructions etc. and I think I bought my full rewire kit with all relays and some other aftermarket bits for around $500
 
I rewired my car with a universal American Autowire kit, the universal kit's are way cheaper and allow for custom wiring. Like Benno said all the wires have what they go to printed right on them so it makes it really easy. I did mine by myself and thought it was fairly easy and would do it all over again to be rid of that antique harness and it's many flaws. Just do your homework and use relays for heavy draw items and you'll be alright.
 
I'm a sucker and bought all year one stuff, but only when it was 30% off
 
I'm a sucker and bought all year one stuff, but only when it was 30% off

I did the same on my '66 Ply Sat build. I didn't however get the discount so it was pricey. Still prefer the M&H one that Year One offers over say Ron Francis or Painless. Both of them are way too expensive for what they offer compared to the M&H and a royal *** Pain to work with. American Autowire and EZ are great upgrades and the price is really nice on the old bill fold. Still I prefer the original setup as opposed to the new because of the replication they have in them. Evans is another alternative but be careful as they are known to mess up really bad in their offerings but will correct it once they have you return the harness. M&H is really pricey but if you are going to do something right then the cost is moot...IMHFO...cr8crshr/Tuck:headbang::headbang:
 
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I did the same on my '66 Ply Sat build. I didn't however get the discount so it was pricey. Still prefer that M&H the Year One offers over say Ron Francis or Painless. Both of them are way too expensive for what they offer compared to the M&H and a royal *** Pain to work with. American Autowire and EZ are great upgrades and the price is really nice on the old bill fold. Still I prefer the original setup as opposed to the new because of the replication they have in them. Evans is another alternative but be careful as they are known to mess up really bad in their offerings but will correct it once they have you return the harness. M&H is really pricey but if you are going to do something right then the cost is moot...IMHFO...cr8crshr/Tuck:headbang::headbang:

I did the same and went with YearOne M&H wiring, the best thing I did for my car.
 
Weather proof relays for lights, horn, ignition-choke and the regular kind in the cabin for the heater and wipers and accessories-lighter.... make all the switches actuators for the relays but the turn stop and marker lights... use a tinned marine wire and dielectric grease everything... it's a tedious job... but in the end it makes the car.
 
I used painless mopar 10127, it was ok to install. I had to configure up graded alternator and regulator, msd box ect. I think I would go with something a little cheaper, but on the other hand painless came with all the correct electrical connectors for lights, switchs, ect. one thing I did was weld in a plate where the stock bulk head connectors go through the firewall for a clean look. 10127 doesn't have wiring for a bunch on modern components.
 
I also rewired my entire car (70 Road Runner) with the Year one M&H wiring harness. I also waited for the 30% off sale.

In my experience, the wiring fit perfectly and went on very nicely. Everything in my car worked right off the bat, so it worked out great. As others have said, don't do this job without documenting exactly how everything came off. Also, X2 on dielectric grease on exterior connections to keep them clean.

I use my cell phone camera constantly. I have found the pictures to be extremely helpful when I put stuff back together. Take lots of pictures when you disassemble and you will be fine.

Good Luck.

Hawk
 
Year One sucks!!! Way too many problems with their orders and customer service. I would never do business with this rag !!!!!!! The issues with this company go on and on. If you dare to complain, then they hang up on you. Terrible service. Would not put one dime in their pockets.
 
It appears Vans Auto is selling M@H wiring now. I have seen in on their Ebay site.
 
Year One sucks!!! Way too many problems with their orders and customer service. I would never do business with this rag !!!!!!! The issues with this company go on and on. If you dare to complain, then they hang up on you. Terrible service. Would not put one dime in their pockets.
I know their shipping is high, being a small company though, it could be worst. Their customer service, that is top notch. I bought a U.S. Radiator through them, installed four years later and it leaked. Yearone paid the repair cost and reinstall.

U.S. Radiator sucks.
 
I am getting ready to install an American Autowire B-Body Restomod kit. It is a real nice kit with some nice flexibility..
 
Rewired complete dash with fuse panel and new switch panel. All Painless gear. Nice gear and would use again.
 
I did a Ron Francis kit and it went well. They also have a convenient mounting bracket that swings out from under the dash. The biggest piece of advice I could give is start all your connections at the fuse box and take them to where they go but don't put ends on anything until you are sure everything is routed exactly as you want it. What seems like the best routing initially sometimes changes as more wires are run later on.
 
I did a Ron Francis kit and it went well. They also have a convenient mounting bracket that swings out from under the dash. The biggest piece of advice I could give is start all your connections at the fuse box and take them to where they go but don't put ends on anything until you are sure everything is routed exactly as you want it. What seems like the best routing initially sometimes changes as more wires are run later on.
Great advice
 
I'm using Ron Francis on mine too. They can change some of it for you at no extra charge when you order direct. I had the charge circuit changed around as I'm using a 136a alternator and the battery is in the trunk.
 
I also rewired my entire car (70 Road Runner) with the Year one M&H wiring harness. I also waited for the 30% off sale.

In my experience, the wiring fit perfectly and went on very nicely. Everything in my car worked right off the bat, so it worked out great. As others have said, don't do this job without documenting exactly how everything came off. Also, X2 on dielectric grease on exterior connections to keep them clean.

I use my cell phone camera constantly. I have found the pictures to be extremely helpful when I put stuff back together. Take lots of pictures when you disassemble and you will be fine.

Good Luck.

Hawk

no need - I already did all that for us!

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...icture-guide-1971-plymouth-dodge-bbody.86051/
 
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