ammeter. which hot(red), which ground(black)

[Texas charger 73]

Is the driver side pin positive side side and passenger side negative. I'm fixing to do a dodge bypass on ammeter. Thank you.

 

[kiwigtx]

There is no combination of positive and negative on an ammeter - unless you like fireworks or arc-welding.

An Ammeter measures current flowing through a circuit - so you should have positive IN, and positive OUT.

A good wiring diagram is the first thing you should be studying for accurate information. They are available online, and probably by scouring the forums here you will find one for your car.

 

[Texas charger 73]

I got an excellent diagram. I just can't remember what i did with it

 

[Badvert65]

I just put both wires on the same stud and bolted it down. Worked like a charm (go figger).

 

[kiwigtx]

I just put both wires on the same stud and bolted it down. Worked like a charm (go figger).

That works fine if your Ammeter is toast. It does not help with the bypass of current away from the Bulkhead connector.
Check here for more info regarding upgrades;

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...ternator-and-Headlight-relay-upgrades-results

That link is from my upgrade work to date, and is not the only way to attack the problem by any means.

 

[Texas charger 73]

I'm not sure I got the skills to do all that. I have never soldered in my.life. and electrical not my thing for sure.

 

[Propwash]

Look at your picture......under one stud there is raised letter's that say "RED". That's the red wire coming in from your bulkhead connector under the dash, that leads out on the opposite side (under the hood), and has a fusible link and connects to the starter relay. Black isn't a ground per say.....it runs off to your fuse box and alternator. A simple bypass is just a matter of soldering the two wires together. Use an un-insulated butt-connector, crimp, solder and cover in heat shrink....you're done.

Here'a good tech article and steps to perform a little more in-depth and preferred method of bypass

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

 

[Nacho-RT74]

and keeping everything working like factory did:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

- - - Updated - - -

An Ammeter measures current flowing through a circuit - so you should have positive IN, and positive OUT.

actually neither that if you have sources on both sides ;) ( which is the case on our cars ). That statement is correct JUST if there is a source on just one side

 

[Texas charger 73]

I was explained by a member on Dodge charger. Com to run red 8g with 50 amp fusible link fromnstarter relay to amp meter and then connect factory black wire and an new black 8g on same stud and run new wire to alternator. Bulkhead problem solved and ammeter still usable. Is this correct?

So there will be an all new red wire run, not through bulkhead and then on other post will be two black wires. Factory for fuse panel and new onento alternator. Seems simple enough.

 

[Seax440Dodge]

I'll take Trick Questions for $100 Alex!

(the ammeter bypass, headlight relay and alternator wiring is next on my project list)

 

[Propwash]

Have you upgraded your alternator or added extra amp draw?

 

[Texas charger 73]

No stock alternator

 

[jenkins71]

The red wire goes under the stud marked "red."

 

[Texas charger 73]

Yeah i seen that after not was pointed out. I was tired and on medication from my fall.

 

[The Horvaths]

With stock alternator and no megawatt stereo or other high-power drains, having the ammeter in circuit and functional is not a bad thing. Is there a particular reason why you wish to bypass it?

As as stated above, it can be bypassed quite simply by fastening both wires to either one of the two studs. But, that will render it useless.

 

[Texas charger 73]

I Dont want to deal with a fire or melted harness later down the road. I Dont really want to bypasz,but reduce voltage. I got it wired up.

 

[The Horvaths]

OK, I'm glad that it's working for you. Ride on!


BTW: Our '67s both have factory AC. The bulkhead (and other "Fast-On") style connectors benefit greatly from a gentle cleansing and judicious application of "DeOxit" contact spray. I spray a little into a jar and paint it onto the contacts themselves with a tiny paint brush. It is the cat's meow when used on copper-bearing metal electrical contacts.