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Minimum rollbar requirement

Roughbird72

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What is the minimum rollbar requirement for cars from 10.00 - 11.49?
I remember seeing Stock Eliminator cars years ago with only a door bar on the drivers side, but i've been out of the loop for quite awhile.
 
Alll tubes 1 3/4" x min .125" in mild steel, ELW tube use .134", Chrome moly .083". Main hoop, shoulder bar within 6" of the drivers shoulders, 2 back support bars, 1 drivers side bar from the foot well that passes between the drivers shoulder and elbow. Attached to the frame or 6"x6" plates bolted or welded to the floor.
Doug
 
Basically thats a 5 point bar that Doug said. Most have a 6 or 8 point bar as myself I have a 6 point bar since I also have the pass side door bar which I felt helped strenthen the car a bit more since I feel my 6 point bar did more to strenthen my car then the frame connectors did. Since my car is a street car I dont want a full cage in it and it is leagal to 10.0 with the 6 point bar and a stock firewall. Ron
 
Ron, i will probably go with a 5 point when i do it. I want to keep the car as passenger friendly as possible. Not sure if i will be able to keep the stock driver's side seat & inner door panel, i may have to got to an aftermarket seat for room. The car has been quicker than 11.50 the last couple times to the track & i have a little more engine going in, in the future.
 
As you can see I still have my stock seats but I did remove the arm rest on the drivers and pass doors. I can understand to go 5 point if you have a pass ride in your car alot. My exwife always has a tuff time climing over the pass bar in my car. Ron

407583081.jpg
 
With your car getting faster you may want to consider the stiffening benefit of an 8, or more, point bar. Someone mentioned that full "cages" are actually more dangerous than safe in a car on the street if not wearing a helmet,(bare head to bar impact). So I bought a Jeg's 6/8 point "bar" kit for about $350 and added a couple more pieces to make it a 10 point that goes from shock towers to rear rails, with thicker than required mount plates welded to frame and frame connectors., and it all bolts in. Roll bars, and cages, add a huge amount of stiffening, if installed right., they work like the upper frame trusses on a bridge. Keep your inside door opener handle in mind when doing your door bar/s,.. I didn't and had a conflict, but worked it out thanks to dvw.
 
I actually planned to put it back in as I put my rear bars to go between the back seat back and seat cushion. Problem was after I welded the bar in the seat would not fit inbetween the bars to go back in. I considered cuting the seat frame and folding the seat to fit in but as my buddy said to me that I am aproaching 60 years old as my friends and non of us are going to climb back there so I just left it out and put carpet over it. And my friend was right as no one has ever even wanted to climb back there as I told my friends they could sit on the floor back there. It worked out ok for me. Ron

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When it comes time, i'm going to try to put the rear bars through the package tray if i can. A friend of mine has been installing bars & cages for a long time, he may be able to cut & bend what i need.
 
Does anybody sell a good kit for a B Body?
Considering a bar in mine but looking at options that are out there? Who to use and who to stay away from? Brands that is. Thanks.
 
With your car getting faster you may want to consider the stiffening benefit of an 8, or more, point bar. Someone mentioned that full "cages" are actually more dangerous than safe in a car on the street if not wearing a helmet,(bare head to bar impact). So I bought a Jeg's 6/8 point "bar" kit for about $350 and added a couple more pieces to make it a 10 point that goes from shock towers to rear rails, with thicker than required mount plates welded to frame and frame connectors., and it all bolts in. Roll bars, and cages, add a huge amount of stiffening, if installed right., they work like the upper frame trusses on a bridge. Keep your inside door opener handle in mind when doing your door bar/s,.. I didn't and had a conflict, but worked it out thanks to dvw.
Why I went with an 8 point cage. When I started to run mid 10's, I started to see wrinkles in my rear body panels near the B pillar. Actually added a longitudinal bar near the floor between the front down bars and hoop. Made a nice stuff box between the front and rear frame sections. No more wrinkles.cagey.jpg

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Talk to a tech guy at Jegs. They sell many different kits.
 
I have a 8.5 certified 8 pt and breakaway door bars. The cert expired in 2010 and the car is going back to the street. I want to remove my shoulder bar to make it safer for the kids in the back seat, they will be getting 4 pt harnesses in the rear....20141108_192253.jpgFB_IMG_1430761740248.jpg
 
My Volare street car has the rear bars hugging the roof as does my sons 62 Savoy. Both cars have back seats.
Doug
 
Does anybody sell a good kit for a B Body?
Considering a bar in mine but looking at options that are out there? Who to use and who to stay away from? Brands that is. Thanks.


My bar is an S & W kit and I installed it myself. Its a nice kit they make. I thought about going throught the pagage tray but since I installed it myself and have seen them with the rear bars at the seat back and cushion I knew that would be easier for me doing it myself.

Crizila do you drive your car on the street any with your rollcage setup and if you do is it close to your head at all ? Ron
 
Does anybody sell a good kit for a B Body?
Considering a bar in mine but looking at options that are out there? Who to use and who to stay away from? Brands that is. Thanks.

Jegs was a good kit for me, but it was my 1st time messing with roll bars. I only had to make cuts (no bending) since my rear bars go straight to the top of the rear rail humps. I can/may also add to them on back to the rear shackle area later. I made the cuts with a skill saw with a metal cutting disc in it and made the fish-mouths with my side grinder. I won't be needing the back seat.., but if someone ever wants to buy the car with the rear seat in I'll just unbolt and easily remove the bar system and install a rear seat. My rear seat was garbage anyway so that helped me decide to not have one, for now.
 
rollbar.jpgI went a the S&W kit & just ran the rear bars thru the back seat. Now i won't get dirty looks running low 11s with no roll bar. lol
 
I thought about putting a swing out bar, but i can actually get in fairly easy.
I just put my right leg in, hold the pillar & slide over the bar.
 
Looks real good Wookie. I was going to go with a swingout but I wanted to keep the bar as solid as I could as I thought it may be more solid without the swingout but it may not. The swingout is nice for a street car as you can just remove it when driving on the street as my buddy does. Ron
 
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