Help me save my 68 Charger

[Root2812]

I started a thread over in the restoration section but that section is pretty slow compared to this one. I was hoping I could use this thread to ask questions and get advice to help me.

I have three major problems. First I need to get the car to roll. I can manage the stuck front wheel but the rear leaf mounts are rusted away so the body is squatting bad as the leafs are in the trunk. I know I need to repair or replace the rear frame rails but they are solid until just behind the wheels. To get it rolling in the garage I was thinking of swapping the shocks for strong angle iron so the back end is raised up. Can anyone tell me what the length of the shock is at ride height? This is just to roll, I'd never drive it that way.

Once I solve issue one I need to get it running. It last ran in 1984. Questions will probably come when I get to that point.

Problem 3 will be repairing rust. I will need those frame rails, trunk floor, etc... It will also need roof repair thanks to a tree, floor patches, and a few other patches.

I do have one more question. I was in the car and wanted to flip the bucket seats up to get in the back. Are my seats installed on the wrong side? The lever to flip the seats over was in the middle of the car and not by the door. It felt weird.

Thanks for answering my questions.

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Threads are worthless without pics so here are a few of my car.

 

[HawkRod]

Hi Root,

So with your rusted rear leaf mounts, I think you need to just remove the rear axle and leaf springs to get it to roll. There are kits that you can buy that will allow you to move a car around that has no front or rear suspension. For example, try US Car Tool, but there are many others. These are basically metal bars with a caster wheel on the end that bolt into the front spring mount.

With the rust repairs you have, I wouldn't worry about getting it running. It can't put any power to the ground with rusted spring perches. You have extensive body repairs to do; I think you need to consider stripping the car to fix the body issues - they will be extensive.

Finally, with the seats - yes, it sounds like they are mounted on the wrong side.

Good Luck

 

[Root2812]

I definitely don't plan on driving it until all the repairs are done. I just wanted to get it running just to know it runs and something to play with while I do the metal repairs.

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My idea to swap the shock for steel came from another build I am doing. The suspension kit I got for that build (1950 Chevy truck) came with these steel rods to take the place of the shock in the front to hold the truck at ride height while you place everything like the motor.

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As I was reading the forum: I came up with one more question. I am more familiar with the mid 70's fender tag so my 68 tag is new to me. I decoded it and everything matches the car but I didn't see a partial vin or anything. How can I confirm this is the tag for this car and know it hasn't been swapped?

 

[mopar vince]

just match the vin tag to the fender tag

Like this one (borrowed from the internet - I wish this were my hemi 500)




Beyond this there will be another on the radiator core support and the trunk gasket lip.
Obviously the motor would have the 6 digit vin # stamped on it along with the transmission if it were all matching,

Hope this helps.

 

[Chargerjase]

This is a great car and totally worthy of being saved. One thing I will say is you better have deep pockets. Stripping the paint will reveal a lot more rust issues that you can see at the moment. You have a lot of sheet metal to replace. My advice is to strip the car and fix the body first. Why tear down the engine and rebuild it when you have nothing to put it in? You are better off concentrating on getting the body rust free. Good luck with it which ever choice you make.

 

[furyus]

If the car is in the garage, why not get some of those Harbor freight casters to put under the tires. From what you've said, and looking at the pictures, you better be dedicated to the work and money and time this car is going to take.

 

[Root2812]

I'm sorry but I didn't mean to mislead you guys on my intentions with the car. I don't plan to fully restore the car. I actually like the patina it wears. I just want to get it mobile even if it looks like crap. My plan was to get the structure safe and solid and not really worry about the skin like quarters and fenders. I checked and all the cross members are solid and so are the front frame rails. I know there is going to be hidden rust I'll find but for now I am only worried about the rear rails and associated pieces. I just want to start in one place and work from there. If I start looking at the project as a whole it will become too intimidating. I definitely won't be stripping it to a bare shell. I plan to take the seats and carpet out to address some holes in the floor and also fix the back end. I understand true mopar lovers will scoff at the idea of just making it move or the idea of a ratty charger but I figure if I can get the structure fixed so it can yard drive and go up and down the dirt roads then I can always fix other stuff as I go over time.

I have it on the casters now to roll around but the back end squats way too low to get under the car, that's why I wanted to make something to get it up to ride height. If I put it on jack stands it can't roll and if I have it on casters I can't get under it. See the dilemma?

I also wasn't going to rebuild the engine. It turns now so I was just going to change all the fluids, give it a tune up, and see if it fires. If it run then great if not I'll go from there. If I can get the structure sound and make it run, a lot can be said for how nice it is to have your project move in and out of the garage under its own power.

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Like this one (borrowed from the internet - I wish this were my hemi 500)
View attachment 281505

View attachment 281506

Beyond this there will be another on the radiator core support and the trunk gasket lip.
Obviously the motor would have the 6 digit vin # stamped on it along with the transmission if it were all matching,

Hope this helps.

That fender tag doesn't look like the one on my 68, that looks like a later tag. The 68 tag has the alphabet across the top. I attached a picture of mine. But the 6 numbers on the bottom right aren't the same as the vin. What I saw online is that was an order number on the 68 tag. Its confusing.

 

[DougL]

I agree with everyone else that the car needs to be stripped to the shell to go after the frame, floor, and roof issues. I work in Coon Rapids if you need a hand pushing or dragging the car into the garage.

edit:
Looks like you posted while I was typing. Sounds like you have a plan and the car where you need it. Good luck with your project! Love 68 Chargers.

 

[Root2812]

I appreciate that Doug. Maybe I'll take you up on that. I was able to get it in the garage. If I have to go as far as gutting the whole car then I'll probably just get it rolling and running and then sell it. I want a charger but I don't have the ability to build it from scratch.

What exactly do you mean by to the shell? I can leave all the dash and wiring in place right?

 

[67 coronet]

if you still need the lifted back end thing,here is how you do it.just jack the car up to the height you want it and measure the distance between the shock bolts.take your ange iron,cut it off a bit longer then that and drill your holes.its that easy.have done it several times on basket case rides for moving around the yard.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Did someone jump out a window and land on the roof of the car?