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My 69 Satellite pro-touring hopeful

The 69 Satty vert. looks great sweatnblood,
looks like it corners really flat too...

Thanks for sharing
 
Torkmnstr said:
Looking good man. Hey how does the gear vendor perform for you? What gears are you running and kind rpm do you see on the freeway? I have been thinking about one for my rr. Thanks
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I'm running a 3.55 and she hum's along about 80MPH 3K RPM..her happy spot
 
Hey grab, do you have any pics of your rear tires? I am looking at running the same setup on my 69 roadrunner, my inner fender is already rolled flat. I really want to run a 295 but on an 18x8 rim I'm not sure how it will look or perform...
 
That's a great looking ragtop. :thumbsup:
 
Torkmnstr said:
Hey grab, do you have any pics of your rear tires? I am looking at running the same setup on my 69 roadrunner, my inner fender is already rolled flat. I really want to run a 295 but on an 18x8 rim I'm not sure how it will look or perform...
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Here are a few. This is an 18x10" rim. My inner fenders are rolled because someone did it before I got the car.

This is "stock" rear height. I put stock in quotes because the leaf springs are 45 years old! I think a 295 will fit on the car without too much problem. I'm not sure you can put a 40 series 295 on an 8" rim.

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Here the car has new leaf springs and is lowered in back with a leveling block between the leaf spring and the axle. Front is a 2" dropped spindle.

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Pull the lowering blocks out, and put in a pair of sliders. The rear will be about a inch taller than with the blocks, the rear fender lip would be almost even with the rims lip. The rear springs will work like they should and the car will feel that much better.
 
Phil McGrath said:
Pull the lowering blocks out, and put in a pair of sliders. The rear will be about a inch taller than with the blocks, the rear fender lip would be almost even with the rims lip. The rear springs will work like they should and the car will feel that much better.
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I thought about that a couple years ago but I was worried about the welding. Now I have a welder and have been going to welding classes. Good idea!
 
Your cars sits just right! Looks great, I have been looking to the 295s. I have found some say fine and others say no, you. An run a 285 on an 8" rim so what sa little more with the 295 right? Mainly since the rims I want are only in an 18x8. What drop spindles are you running and what's the backspace?
 
Phil McGrath said:
Pull the lowering blocks out, and put in a pair of sliders. The rear will be about a inch taller than with the blocks, the rear fender lip would be almost even with the rims lip. The rear springs will work like they should and the car will feel that much better.
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What's a slider? Never heard of it before...
 
Checked out the slider, interesting, so that gives you a little bit of a drop to begin with? I see as the suspension cycles it moves around. Does that smooth out the ride too?
 
Torkmnstr said:
What size block did you put in?
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From the looks of the before and after I would guess about a 2in block too help maintain the slight forward rake of the car. Slider's help the rear springs travel in the same arc, because they roll with the rear end of the spring the spring can react faster. Sliders can't bind like the typical rear spring hanger does. The other side effect of sliders is that they lower the rear end a little bit and this helps lower the rears center of gravity so you also get better weight transfer, better weight transfer adds hook on the cars launch.

There is two ways you can mount the sliders, weld them on top of the frame where the spring eye is located about 1 1/2in forward. This will lower the ride height of the rear about a inch, if you pocket the slider the rear drops about another inch or more. I've seen both styles done and both are effective, pocketing them does require more fab work but it can be done cleanly and few people even look twice, however being a 4spd nut job myself, I prefer the pocketed slider this really helps with the cars weight transfer.

Ride quality is determined by the shock absorber. A soft shock will give a soft ride, a firm shock a firm ride. The Leaf Springs main function is too support the weight of the car and its passengers plus whatever is tossed in the trunk. Shocks can help with the violence of launch but that's not there main job, that's the springs job of controlling the axel housing.
 
Phil McGrath said:
From the looks of the before and after I would guess about a 2 in block too help maintain the slight forward rake of the car.
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Not a bad guess looking at the car from 1,100 miles away!

Hmmm... Replace with pocketed slider for the same 2" of drop. Someone give me permission to by a plasma cutter...
 
Sweet! yep one of Randy's spoilers is on my list of gets too. was around $129 now I think he up'ed his price. not much though.
 
Thanks guys for the info! Sorry Bud but NO Chebbie parts are even allowed in the garage, let alone on the car! Sorry if I offended any multi brand people.....
 
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