Burnt up another starter relay

[Darthomas]

Ignition switch new or old?

 

[mikeyfrano]

Ignition switch new or old?

New

 

[mikeyfrano]

I hope it's not that everything on my car was new just 3 yrs ago

I'll try the new blast n let you know what happens
Thanks for your help

 

[Darthomas]

Unseat and reattach the bulkhead connectors and try again, or just wiggle them with authority and try it.

 

[383man]

Once the car starts the starter relay has nothing to do with how the car runs. Sounds like you have an ign or fuel problem. As long as the car cranks the starter relay is working. Ron

 

[747mopar]

Could a bad balast cause t

I'll try a new blast tomarrow after work. Maybe the blast that I barrowed wasn't any good. They are cheap enough that I'll try a new one. But it still doesn't make sense to me that a new starter real can make it run

Just put a jumper across the ballast, if that allows it to keep running then it's the ballast.

 

[747mopar]

Looking at this diagram you can see how the start position of the ignition provides direct voltage to the coil but in run it has to go threw the ballast. Chrysler did this to provide a hotter spark for start ups but then reduce voltage after starting. Jumping the run to the start terminal will tell you if its bad, putting a voltmeter on the run terminal with the ignition in run will tell you if it's the ignition switch.

 

[mikeyfrano]

Unseat and reattach the bulkhead connectors and try again, or just wiggle them with authority and try it.

I finally got home and put the new balast the wires on. It was a no go. But when I wiggled

Unseat and reattach the bulkhead connectors and try again, or just wiggle them with authority and try it.

I got home and put on the new balast, it was a no go. Then I wiggled the little pos wire that goes to the relay swicth along with the bulkhead connector it started and kept running

 

[mikeyfrano]

I finally got home and put the new balast the wires on. It was a no go. But when I wiggled

I got home and put on the new balast, it was a no go. Then I wiggled the little pos wire that goes to the relay swicth along with the bulkhead connector it started and kept running

Thank you for your help everyone

 

[Joeyt66]

I have to agree with Darthomas, in my younger days I worked at a repair shop and we saw this a lot. Some of my regular customers carried an extra resistor in the glove box. We tried OEM and different brands, but none seemed better than any other one. Years later I bought that shop an spent 45 years in the auto repair business. I'm retired now and I miss it.

 

[dhd76]

Unseat and reattach the bulkhead connectors and try again, or just wiggle them with authority and try it.

Hey guys, I'm new here but I have solved a few problems with my 1969 GTX by reading here. I recently retired, when I was a kid, I was a hot-rodder, but many years have passed since those days.

I am having this start then stop immediately problem. I am able to make the car start and run by "wiggling the bulkhead connector with authority..." That works for a start or two and then back to the same problem until I wiggle that connector again. What is the permanent fix for this? Is that connector replaceable? I have not been able to unplug and re-seat it, so I need some advice. Will it actually unplug?

Thanks in advance,

David

 

[Fran Blacker]

You have a bad connection with that wire. Need clean both engine compartment side and in bulk head . Look for burnt wires.
If you have other questions go to forums and start a thread. The place for this problem would be in "Electrical & Ignition". In upper right corner you'll see "Post a new thread" click on that. Tell what your problem is and put in what car engine info and a description of problem.

 

[Ranger16]

Will it actually unplug?

Yes, there is a retainer clip on each side of each of the 3 pugs. The picture below shows the clips pretty clearly. A long thin screwdriver in the slot at the base of the clip will help to pop them loose.

I had a similar problem, but just the opposite of yours. It would not start til I released the key. I knew it was with the ballast resistor bypass circuit. Long story short, I finally pulled the bulkhead connector and used a small screwdriver to just slightly bend the contacts on that wire for a more positive contact. Problem solved. Sounds like you MIGHT have the same problem, just on the run wire instead of the bypass wire. If that doesn't help, it might be the ignition switch. In my case, that tested good before I went to the bulkhead connector. Another possibility could be a bad ballast resistor.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Hey guys, I'm new here but I have solved a few problems with my 1969 GTX by reading here. I recently retired, when I was a kid, I was a hot-rodder, but many years have passed since those days.

I am having this start then stop immediately problem. I am able to make the car start and run by "wiggling the bulkhead connector with authority..." That works for a start or two and then back to the same problem until I wiggle that connector again. What is the permanent fix for this? Is that connector replaceable? I have not been able to unplug and re-seat it, so I need some advice. Will it actually unplug?

Thanks in advance,

David

Should stop in the welcome wagon and introduce yourself.Where's yer manors?

 

[dhd76]

Well, I guess I missed that part! I will drop by tomorrow!
Thanks to all for your good advice.

 

[dhd76]

Yes, there is a retainer clip on each side of each of the 3 pugs. The picture below shows the clips pretty clearly. A long thin screwdriver in the slot at the base of the clip will help to pop them loose.
View attachment 939685
I had a similar problem, but just the opposite of yours. It would not start til I released the key. I knew it was with the ballast resistor bypass circuit. Long story short, I finally pulled the bulkhead connector and used a small screwdriver to just slightly bend the contacts on that wire for a more positive contact. Problem solved. Sounds like you MIGHT have the same problem, just on the run wire instead of the bypass wire. If that doesn't help, it might be the ignition switch. In my case, that tested good before I went to the bulkhead connector. Another possibility could be a bad ballast resistor.

Ranger and all the rest of you guys,

I took those plugs out and cleaned them up, hit the key and she roared to life. Who would have figured something so simple. To say that I appreciate your help seems pretty lame, but anyway appreciate your help! Life is better when the GTX runs smoothly! Now if the love bug season will just end, I will get her out on the road.
Best of luck to you all.

 

[Ranger16]

 

[Should be playing golf]

There is a brown wire that runs from the ballast resistor to the center clip of the bulkhead connector that is probably loose. If that wire disconnects somehow, the car will never run. Check the connection at the ballast resistor and look to see if that brown wire (center of the three clips, bottom row, second wire from the right) is fully inserted in the black bulkhead clip. Push it in hard!

 

[Should be playing golf]

That loose brown wire cost me a AAA flatbed ride.