440 won't stay running

[Paul Cotton]

I have a 65 Belvedere II with a 440 engine in it. The engine has a Bullet cam, Edelbrock intake and carburetor, headers and flow master exhaust. The ignition has been upgraded to the Mopar electronic ignition and has run solidly with no trouble. Without any warning I suddenly have a problem where the engine will not stay running unless you hold the ignition key over into the start position. I have run a jumper between the + terminal of the coil and the battery. When I do this, the engine will start and continue to run until the strap is removed. Any suggestions as to the next step/steps?

 

[69Runner]

Based on what you describe it sounds like the key/ignition switch itself, if you are losing the 12V in RUN. Do you have 12V at the bulkhead? With the key in START the starter should engage and if it is not then that doesn't make sense. Jiggle the key in RUN and see what happens.

BTW, you might want to re-post in another area to get more replies, once this post moves down the list.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/forums/electrical-ignition.23/

 

[terzmo]

ballast

 

[747mopar]

If it's got a ballast then I agree (post was vague on the ignition setup).

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

ballast

Or wiring at the ballast. I've seen a lot of shoddy wiring repairs/splices on these cars over the years.

 

[polywideblock]

welcome
if not the ballast its the ignition switch ,I've had the same problem replaced everything and then found it was the switch . easy way to find out ,rub a clip lead from + bat terminal to the powered side of ballast if runs its the switch if it don't clip to other side of ballast if it runs its the ballast

 

[jimt1971rr]

A real quick way to verify a ballast problem is to take the two electrical connectors off of the ballast resistor and plug an opened up paper clip into the connectors as a bypass. If it starts and runs, it's the ballast. Don't run the car for more than a few minutes like this but is a cheap and easy way to check it.

 

[Budnicks]

Welcome to FBBO from hot & dry NorCal

maybe post the questions in the general discussion or appr. forum section
you'll get far more responses...
this is just the welcome wagon not really a tech or Q&A section
nowhere near as many viewers either...

good luck you have some great answers already

 

[PurpleBeeper]

These guys are all on the right track. In my '70, there's a blue wire that goes through the ballast resistor that is 12V when "on" (less 5V or 7V? coming out of ballast resistor). There's also a brown wire that is 12V when "start" that goes to the "outgoing end" of the ballast resistor so that you momentarily get the full 12V to your ignition during starting only, then it goes dead once the key springs back into the "on" position after starting.

Based upon your description (& the wiring in my '70), you're getting 12V through the brown wire during "start", but the blue wire is NOT giving you 12V when the key is in "on". That is confirmed by it running when you run a lead from the + of the battery to the + of the coil (basically making your own blue wire). So....your choices are:
1. Ignition switch bad
2. Ballast resistor burned out (most likely problem - very common)
3. Blue "12V when On" wire bad

 

[Paul Cotton]

Thanks Everyone for your input. I did find the problem, it turned out the previous owner had installed a fuse link in the blue J-2 lead between the ignition switch and the ballast resistor. I replaced the fuse and it starts and runs fine.

 

[Paul Cotton]

These guys are all on the right track. In my '70, there's a blue wire that goes through the ballast resistor that is 12V when "on" (less 5V or 7V? coming out of ballast resistor). There's also a brown wire that is 12V when "start" that goes to the "outgoing end" of the ballast resistor so that you momentarily get the full 12V to your ignition during starting only, then it goes dead once the key springs back into the "on" position after starting.

Based upon your description (& the wiring in my '70), you're getting 12V through the brown wire during "start", but the blue wire is NOT giving you 12V when the key is in "on". That is confirmed by it running when you run a lead from the + of the battery to the + of the coil (basically making your own blue wire). So....your choices are:
1. Ignition switch bad
2. Ballast resistor burned out (most likely problem - very common)
3. Blue "12V when On" wire bad

Your post nailed it. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks Everyone for your input. I did find the problem, it turned out the previous owner had installed a fuse link in the blue J-2 lead between the ignition switch and the ballast resistor. I replaced the fuse and it starts and runs fine.

 

[super-bee_ski]

Welcome aboard!

 

[super-bee_ski]

These guys are all on the right track. In my '70, there's a blue wire that goes through the ballast resistor that is 12V when "on" (less 5V or 7V? coming out of ballast resistor). There's also a brown wire that is 12V when "start" that goes to the "outgoing end" of the ballast resistor so that you momentarily get the full 12V to your ignition during starting only, then it goes dead once the key springs back into the "on" position after starting.

Based upon your description (& the wiring in my '70), you're getting 12V through the brown wire during "start", but the blue wire is NOT giving you 12V when the key is in "on". That is confirmed by it running when you run a lead from the + of the battery to the + of the coil (basically making your own blue wire). So....your choices are:
1. Ignition switch bad
2. Ballast resistor burned out (most likely problem - very common)
3. Blue "12V when On" wire bad

GREAT POST!