K-frame damage, what are my options?

[funknut]

Hello -

I've disassembled the front suspension on my '68 Charger to replace bushings and shocks, and upgrade UCAs and strut rods. In the process I've found damage to the k-frame and sway bar. It looks like it's taken quite a good hit at some point over the years, and I'm wondering your opinions on next steps. The spot that concerns me most is the strut rod attachment point, as it's not completely square and the strut rods I'm installing are the QA1s with the solid aluminum end. No rubber bushing to conform to the distorted k-frame.

This looks like a point of impact:

And a couple side shots of the strut rod mount location. It looks like it's about 1/4" to maybe 3/8" off. I'm guessing the wheel or LCA caught something and pulled on the strut rod.

Any thoughts on how I should address this? I don't think the crumple in the first pic can be addressed without some serious surgery, but what's the best way to massage the strut rod mount back to square?

Is this something that could be done with a frame puller?

Any ideas welcome.

 

[66Satellite47]

Gee, see if you can find another at a local salvage yard.

 

[Dako]

If you are fortunate enough to live in an area with a frame shop, I would stop in and show them your photos. If it's fixable, they will be the ones to do it.

 

[dla4567]

If you want to replace it I may have one. (Shipping would be from Pittsburgh)

 

[Moparparts]

I have a 69 dated one from a Road Runner in good used condition other then some typical jacking dents on the bottom . Message me if interested

 

[funknut]

Ok, thanks everyone for the input. I may see about swapping it out, then.

This all started as a simple disc brake conversion, and now I'm definitely in deep!

I have all the suspension off, so it seems simplest to disconnect the steering column, support the motor from underneath (using a combination of jack stands and wood blocks) and drop the k-frame. Then swap over the steering box and idler arm and reinstall the new one.

I've seen threads where people will put a support across the inner fenders and/or shock towers and hang the motor from there, but that seems to be an awful lot of weight...

 

[66Satellite47]

It's probably just as easy to pull the motor out & have an easy k member removal. It's been a long time since I went through this process, but we pulled the motor, took all the parts off & put in the new K member. But that was when the parts were readily available and a good frame shop was close at hand. New K member good frame straightening, all great.

 

[kiwigtx]

I would not waste my time trying to straighten that one...get a good replacement from FBBO or a salvage yard.

 

[wsutard]

Here is a thought. Get the QA1 tube K frame!

 

[funknut]

Here is a thought. Get the QA1 tube K frame!

I am also considering that option as well. The used ones I'm seeing on ebay are $250-$300 plus $100 shipping.

The QA1 is $560 shipped from Summit (arrives in 2 days) and includes $55 Summit bucks (as good as cash to me lately) and you get a known-new, powder coated unit.

If I can't find a cheaper option soon, or something local, the QA1 is very compelling.

 

[WileE]

That is a very common condition caused by a road/pothole collision... just get a replacement

 

[eldubb440]

This all started as a simple disc brake conversion, and now I'm definitely in deep!

.

not yet, but you are trending in that direction

 

[rrTor-Red]

not yet, but you are trending in that direction

Whether or not you get a used/different K or even the QA1. I would pull the torsion bars, disconnect everything, and drop the whole dang thing out as a whole unit. That way, you can look at the motor mounts and all suspension stuff that might need replaced. Do it right, now, or pay the piper later then you will be cussing, if that happens..IMOP

 

[wsutard]

Newb question here. Is there a way to pull the K-Frame without also pulling the motor?

 

[rrTor-Red]

Newb question here. Is there a way to pull the K-Frame without also pulling the motor?

IMOP, yea if you take all necessary precautions BUT I think you'll be asking for trouble. Too many things can go wrong and you can possibly get hurt in the process. Read my post #13 above

 

[eldubb440]

Newb question here. Is there a way to pull the K-Frame without also pulling the motor?

69.95 at harbor freight....... holds 1000 pounds........there may be heavier units available, but would probably work just fine

• Home
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• 1000 lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar

 

[wsutard]

Funknut, what was the conclusion here?

 

[MarPar]

 

[funknut]

I ended up going with the QA1 k-frame and the QA1 LCAs.

To install it I built a cradle out of 2x4 and 2x6 lumber that supported the motor on the oil pan rails, jacked it up and stacked 4x4s underneath. It was a bit fiddly to get the height right so it rested comfortably, but worked just fine. It wasn't going anywhere, but to be extra sure, I borrowed an engine hoist to support it from the top, just in case.

The actual k-frame swap was quicker than I expected, probably only took me 60-75 mins solo.

 

[wsutard]

Did you keep the stock upper controll arms? Anything else stock bolted to the k frame?