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Battery relocation

69clone

69clone

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I ordered a Taylor aluminum battery box and now I need to think about cable. What size gauge is typical? I was going to have the positive cable hot all the time but I seen a thread on using a ford silonoid to prevent that. So my next question is what's the best setup? Safest too!
According to nhra rules I need a kill switch does the silonoid wiring cause any issues with that?
 
I always run "0" gauge copper-cable from the battery, forward. I've also had the Ford solenoid on most race-cars.
 
mmissile said:
I always run "0" gauge copper-cable from the battery, forward. I've also had the Ford solenoid on most race-cars.
Click to expand...
Thats what I am seeing most guys using 1, 0 or 1/0. Might have to order online.. I was hoping to find someone local but Napa was the only place I found today that sold it by the foot and the biggest they carry was 2g... I heard weld wire can break from the vibration of a car?
 
I used 1/0 copper cable for mine. Got the cable at a local surplus store. Make sure you measure how much cable you need and then add a little extra. The cable does not stretch if you are too short.
I installed a master shut off.
IMG_0512.JPG
 
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Here is who I am going to use. They will make it in custom lengths as well. I might go 2/0 on mine, but 1/0 is a good choice.
 
I would go to Mad electric and get their trunk solinoid kit. Then you only run the positive battery 0 gauge cable hot when you trigger the solinoid. Direct to the starter it goes hot only when you crank. Mark Hamilton is the owner. Located in california "mad Electric"
 
snakeoil24 said:
I would go to Mad electric and get their trunk solinoid kit. Then you only run the positive battery 0 gauge cable hot when you trigger the solinoid. Direct to the starter it goes hot only when you crank. Mark Hamilton is the owner. Located in california "mad Electric"
Click to expand...
Thanks for allowing me to rethink my whole power supply system.. Makes perfect sense..
 
I've learned some neat things off Marks site like making headlights brighter, who knew. So I've measured a few times I need about 20ft of cable...local supply shop wants almost 7 bucks a foot for 1 gauge iirc and its pink. I heard weld lead is cheap anyone gone that route? Seems like a lot of people have liked it.
I guess if I run a solenoid to keep the starter dead I'll have to run my msd back to the battery too.?
 
You can buy the cable on line way cheaper and you need "zero" gauge" Look on ebay for cable, fine stranded will flex easier. You will run a primary wire to trunk from alternator. Use 8 gauge or 10 gauge. You will set up a buss in the engine compartment for battery terminals and run the alternator wire and solenoid engagement wire to trunk.
 
I want to make sure I got this correctly and getting the right stuff because I am still a little confused.
So I have: Battery box, 1/0 gauge weld wire, 4 stud kill switch, and MAD solenoid kit. That should be everything to get me going?

The MAD kit solenoid will kill the starter wire when not cranking and I assume one of the wires off that goes to the factory solenoid up front to provide power to everything else? Then I just run the alternator back to the solenoid or small stud on the kill switch?
 
no put kill switch on negative side side of battery then after kill switch bolt to body. When kill switch is operated it will cut all current to alternator an everythiing else. make sure you run a ground from engine block to frame as well. Then take the 0 gauge wire and put on large terminal on starter. Take a jumper wire from large terminal and jmp to triger on solinoid up front. THE WIRE MIGHT BE 2 INCHES LONG. oR A PIECE OF COPPER PLATE CAN BE USED. After this run a ten gauge solidere ring terminal wire to a bus on firewall. From their run the tenn gauge wire to trunk. Connect this wire with fusable link to positive on battery. Finally take a trigger wire from key to front relay to positive trigger terminal on new solenoid in trunk. When key is turned to start position it will trigger starter. When you release skey from start position starter will be cold. Also run your coil to this point. Then a second wire from front solinoid to run position on coil so you excite coil while in run position.. If you need more info i can send diagrahm..
 
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Thanks Snakeoil24. I gotta say a lot of this is all new to me but I think I have a better understand after looking at a few diagrams. Don't know if yours is any different. I kinda came up with this. I have no idea if this will work though? Not sure about the alternator wiring but I figured as long as the msd ignition is killed the engine will die. The wire I marked for accessory has to go to the factory solenoid to power everything right?

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69clone- you'll be happy with the welding wire, much easier to fit around everything. Battery cable is way too stiff. Mine has been in car since early 80's, no problems. Just anchor down as often as you can.
 
Yup I got everything Friday now to just wire it lol I will need to get a piece of angle stock to mount the switch.

image.jpeg
 
Go buy a Jeep or 69 Ford Mustang starter solenoid. Same thing and cost under $20

I build these things all the time. Mad has some good things. I don't agree with his approach, primarily the wire around and headlight relays they use/wire sizing.

Welding wire is a PIA to solder ends on and still capture all the strands...

Think through your routing and it will be OK.

Here's what I do. Ford solenoid and a CD relay to kill the alt charge line. More work, but, nothing outside a 2' cube is hot when the cutoff switch is thrown. 2/0 battery cable and 4 gauge charge line

 
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