Battery relocation

[69clone]

How did youmake out with mad electrical and the remote solinoid?

I decided to just get a Ford solenoid and piece it together.

So I got the solenoid and some 8 gauge wire. Figured that should be enough to run from the alternator to killswitch and run a line up to the factory solenoid on the firewall to power everything else.

All I got done so far was mocking up the main cable. Now I'm just wondering do I bring it out of the clutch hole or drill a hole near the gas peddle to get a straight shot to the starter.
Ignore my nasty carpet... Don't live on dirt roads anymore but that fine dirt dust is just about in every crevice still.

 

[Crackedback]

Battery cable, I run it through the clutch hole, then use the speedo cable bracket on firewall to hold it. Either in the bracket or zip tie it.

 

[69clone]

I'm wondering what size fuse would you put for the wire going to power up front? On the other side for my alternator I'm guessing something around 60-75amp it's a denso 60amp.
Here's how I've got it mostly wired. Seem right?

 

[Crackedback]

The crimp on your battery cable should be redone. Ideally, you want the insulation right up against you terminal, no gaps.

The schematic is overly complicated. The ENTIRE reason to run a ford solenoid is to remove any starter loads from your cut off switch.

 

[snakeoil24]

I would use a fuseable link 4 wire sizes smaller then gauge your using..

 

[snakeoil24]

Why are you using 6 gauge to trigger mopar starter solenoid??

 

[69clone]

The crimp on your battery cable should be redone. Ideally, you want the insulation right up against you terminal, no gaps.

The schematic is overly complicated. The ENTIRE reason to run a ford solenoid is to remove any starter loads from your cut off switch.

Thanks Ill give it another shot. I was afraid to have it up against it and pull away when I crimped it.
I'm using the ford solenoid to keep the big unfused wire to the starter from being hot. The other two wires (one to power lights/accessories and the other is the alternator which runs to the kill switch).

Why are you using 6 gauge to trigger mopar starter solenoid??

Its what I had. I figure 10 or 8 would have worked but I got a good deal on 6 gauge weld cable. So I'm running it to the alternator and to power the rest of the car. Btw that's to supply battery power not trigger? All I did was remove the factory wire that went from that post to the battery and just running it to the trunk now.

 

[Crackedback]

Thanks Ill give it another shot. I was afraid to have it up against it and pull away when I crimped it.
I'm using the ford solenoid to keep the big unfused wire to the starter from being hot. The other two wires (one to power lights/accessories and the other is the alternator which runs to the kill switch).

The schematic show the wire going from battery to cut off switch then to ford relay. I would not do it that way. This show the starter load going through your cutoff switch.

Battery direct to one side of ford relay, drag whatever you want switched by the cut off from the upstream side of your ford relay.

Trigger the ford relay from your mopar relay with a 12ga wire.

Make darn sure the smaller post are capable of carrying the entire potential alternator load. I believe you need a jumper wire from the other small post to large post on battery side, Otherwise the alternator current has nowhere to go

 

[69clone]

The schematic show the wire going from battery to cut off switch then to ford relay. I would not do it that way. This show the starter load going through your cutoff switch.

Battery direct to one side of ford relay, drag whatever you want switched by the cut off from the upstream side of your ford relay.

Trigger the ford relay from your mopar relay with a 12ga wire.

Make darn sure the smaller post are capable of carrying the entire potential alternator load. I believe you need a jumper wire from the other small post to large post on battery side, Otherwise the alternator current has nowhere to go

Thank you, I see what you mean now. Never crossed my mind to do it like that. I know the switch is designed to take the full amps either way. 2,000 intermittent and 300 continuous. Doesn't say rating for alternator just super duty alternator post. But it's just a denso 60amp alt.

 

[snakeoil24]

You really want to solder all heavy terminals after they are crimped prior to installing heat shrink tubing. Also youse the heat shrink with built in sealer..

 

[69clone]

Hey snake oil. I went ahead and gave soldering them a try. From what I read I didn't want to cold solder so I placed the wire into the terminal 3/4th the way and heated them up as I added 40/60lead. Wasn't sure how much to put in as I didn't want it pouring out as I pressed the wire all the way in. Melted about 3" or alittle more then pressed the wire the remainder of the way in. Should I crimp it as well? Only issue I see is the end of the insulator burnt and flaking off

 

[snakeoil24]

First thing solder needs to be applied after crimp. The terminal needs to have solder feed from the terminal end. If it did not have a hole at that end drill one. then heat body of terminal and feed solder at terminal end.

 

[69clone]

Thanks had I read your previous post again I would have seen that oops. I'll drill a hole and try again here shortly.


Edit is there any kind of trick to getting the solder to flow down the hole and not puddle up at the top? I had one go perfect and the other didn't flow in just filled in the hole and then puddle on top. Tried just getting that hot hoping it would eventually go down but didn't.. Tried it out and tried again same thing...

 

[snakeoil24]

Yes you have to get the terminal hot enough, The one you did on right is a cold solider which won't conduct properly. make the hole a little bigger. Hold the iron at the bback near wire and when the terminal is hot enough it will run right through. make sure you lay it on it's side so it soaks in and doesn't drip straight down. When you use a solider gun make sure you pre heat tip before touching terminal. Be patient you are getting their..Also don't hold terminal in vise or it will soak up all the heat..

 

[69clone]

Thanks sorry I haven't gotten around to it Til today I bought some new solder and flux. It seems to be working a lot better. Not sure what my old solder was for but I picked up electrical solder. Flows like water running into the terminal not puddling up like the old stuff. Anyways I finished wiring the alternator cable with a fusible link wire on one end. What side would you place on the alternator? My only concern is if I put the fusible link on the alternator if it burns up the fuel lines are within inches of it.?

Yes you have to get the terminal hot enough, The one you did on right is a cold solider which won't conduct properly. make the hole a little bigger. Hold the iron at the bback near wire and when the terminal is hot enough it will run right through. make sure you lay it on it's side so it soaks in and doesn't drip straight down. When you use a solider gun make sure you pre heat tip before touching terminal. Be patient you are getting their..Also don't hold terminal in vise or it will soak up all the heat..

 

[snakeoil24]

The fuse able link is on battery side not on the alternator side. Remember if the field coil gets no power, alternators will not make power. But the battery can back feed into alternator. That i s why you use secondary Relay.

 

[69clone]

After reading your comment on the 5th I finished the wiring and installed everything. Today, I finally got some of the other things on the engine done so I pushed it outside flipped the kill switch, sat in the car, turned the key a couple times to get fuel through the lines then all of a sudden that damn ford solenoid gave out and my starter kept clicking I quickly hit the kill switch. I wasn't sure what had happened I actually thought the ignition wire shorted or something but it checked out prefectly fine as were the rest of the wires. Of course they were warm after trying to turn it over a couple times but I tested the post on the ford solenoid with everything unhooked and it still managed to be making contact internally.. So off to the parts store tomorrow going to see if there's a better more reliable brand... Pos was Chinese go figure.

 

[snakeoil24]

A cole Hersey is a far better solinoid. We mentioned that to you early on.