4-speed conversion 67 Coronet
- Thread starter 69Runner
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No real glamor shots, just dirty work cleaning up the yoke and driveshaft. We took some 100 grit and knocked off the surface rust on the d/s. Then it will get some fresh cast iron paint.
Yoke will clean up, no deep grooves. Used 100 grit by hand here, but I will polish it more before returning to duty. Currently bathing in evap-o-rust.
Inside is pretty - look Ma no cavities. Or noticeable pitting/damage.
Why it's a good reason to replace the U-joints...
U-joints are Detroit 7260, these Moogs should hold up. 7290 would be more common behind a HP 440 or 383.
All that's left is to remove the inspection cover, unbolt the torque converter, support the transmission and engine, remove the speedo cable...
Yoke will clean up, no deep grooves. Used 100 grit by hand here, but I will polish it more before returning to duty. Currently bathing in evap-o-rust.
Inside is pretty - look Ma no cavities. Or noticeable pitting/damage.
Why it's a good reason to replace the U-joints...
U-joints are Detroit 7260, these Moogs should hold up. 7290 would be more common behind a HP 440 or 383.
All that's left is to remove the inspection cover, unbolt the torque converter, support the transmission and engine, remove the speedo cable...
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The car is officially a NO speed - the 727 is out. We supported the tail with one jack, the engine with a piece of 2x6 on a scissor jack, and a third jack underneath the pan. With all the bolts out, it separated from the engine easily and started to rotate a bit. We steadied it and lowered the bell onto a 2x4 stud supported by 2 paint cans. Then it was just a matter of smoothly lowering it to the floor. Fortunately the car was high enough on the wheel ramps and the beast slid right out.
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Good news, the crank has been pre-drilled for the pilot bushing. It sure looked like a steel crank damper but it's nice to finally confirm the flywheel and standard pilot bushing will work. The 440 block has a 1976 casting date but somehow a steel crank ended up inside.
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Phil McGrath
Well-Known Member
Double check the pilot hole is deep enough, sometimes there started but not always drilled too the correct depth. Ask me how I found out....
You must have found out when you had several hundred pounds of transmission that would not butt up against the bellhousing, right? Thanks, I will add that to my checklist!
The back of the block is clean, thanks to gunk, simple green, water and a light coating of wd-40. Threads are chased and all the bolts are cleaned up. While checking things over I noticed what looks like a windage tray sandwiched between 2 gaskets - not sure if that would have been stock but another nice surprise.
It's time to install the flywheel and bellhousing to check the runout. If I don't need any offset dowels then we can probably get the driveline in this weekend. What are the chances everything will line up? I wonder if the runout was checked on the assembly line back in the day?
The underside has been preserved by a combination of undercoating, transmission fluid (rear seal), Georgia clay and the odd mud dauber nest.
It's time to install the flywheel and bellhousing to check the runout. If I don't need any offset dowels then we can probably get the driveline in this weekend. What are the chances everything will line up? I wonder if the runout was checked on the assembly line back in the day?
The underside has been preserved by a combination of undercoating, transmission fluid (rear seal), Georgia clay and the odd mud dauber nest.
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Getting ready to test runout, unfortunately the mag base of my dial indicator slides down when clamped vertically in the center of the flywheel. Maybe everyone who complains about the same thing has a cheapo $30 setup like mine. Or it's a common problem even with more expensive bases.
Anyhow I'm going to try this tomorrow morning - a steel plate bolted on the end of the crank with some 7/16-20 screws. It feels secure with more surface for the magnet. At least we won't risk scratching the flywheel if it all falls off.
Anyhow I'm going to try this tomorrow morning - a steel plate bolted on the end of the crank with some 7/16-20 screws. It feels secure with more surface for the magnet. At least we won't risk scratching the flywheel if it all falls off.
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This morning we checked bellhousing runout. I pulled the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft. The mag-base mounting plate plate worked well, and we found the bellhousing to be high and to the left. Good thing we checked, but now I need some 14 thou offset dowels.
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We pulled out the front seats and carpet and traced the pattern for the floor hump. Since we're stalled on the bellhousing until the offset dowels come in we will probably be able to get the pedals and column swapped over during the week. I have been wondering what the specific differences are between the 67 and 68-69 columns. Now it's time to figure that out.
Phil McGrath
Well-Known Member
Orange bell housing on a blue painted engine, what's wrong with you? Paint it so its all match's will ya..
64SF
Well-Known Member
Have subscribed to your thread. I'll be doing a conversion shortly on my 64 Sport Fury.
This may be a dumb question but if offset dowels are installed does it create any problems with bolting the housing to the engine. If you don't install the dolwels what effects will it have on the transmission and other components?
Good questions. From what I have observed there is enough play in the bolt holes of the bellhousing to allow the offset dowels to do their job. They come in 7, 14 and 21 thou increments (for whatever reason). Even 21 is a small amount, half a millimeter, so you're not really moving it very much.
That same small amount matters more and more when you get into the higher rpms like 5000 or 6000 rpm. My goal is to be within 0.005" or 5 thou. This keeps the crankshaft aligned with the input shaft of the transmission. Since I have it all apart and I have acquired parts from various sources it was just peace of mind to check the runout.
If you think about it misalignment will cause premature wear on the input bearing and potential failure of the input bearing retainer (where the throwout bearing lives).
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Haha. It never even occurred to me! Was it even supposed to be painted? Crap, now that's going to bug me.
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For anyone interested here's the difference between the upper collars, looking from the back. 68-9 on the left and 67 on the right. The 67 steering column flares out at the top, so the 2 goofy attachment screws will not engage if you try to interchange years.
Other than this difference, the 2 columns look very similar. I will test-fit the 68-9 column, and if it checks out then I will use that one and leave the 1967 column-shift intact.
Other than this difference, the 2 columns look very similar. I will test-fit the 68-9 column, and if it checks out then I will use that one and leave the 1967 column-shift intact.
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Daves69
Well-Known Member
IMO, Looks deep enough in the post 27 picture. Maybe not at finish diameter for a pressed bushing. Moot point if you go with the bearing.
Agreed, the clutch alignment tool went all the way in (so the depth is there) but I was thinking the same thing - could I press in the smaller bushing? Thanks for confirming. I will use the larger bushing instead.
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If anyone is wondering how the 1967 brake pedal bracket differs from later years, here it is. Overall it looks very similar, with 2 exceptions. The large hole in the 67 is round for the duct, and there are some stand-offs stamped into the dash mounting flange (67 on the left). Bottom picture is looking up and back at the speedo from behind - you can see the standoffs to the right. So I will clean up the 67 assembly and move the clutch pedal over to avoid any other surprises.
With the steering column out I can also reach a few instrument panel bulbs that were burned out - bonus!
With the steering column out I can also reach a few instrument panel bulbs that were burned out - bonus!
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Sixtynine_Bird
Well-Known Member
What is that liquid? Is that homemade?
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