4-speed conversion 67 Coronet

[69Runner]

This will be a first for me, a full conversion. I rebuild the 4-speed in my Roadrunner a few years ago, so the process of removal and re-assembly is familiar. This is also a father-son(s) project so we're just having fun.

One obvious thing that needs to be addressed is welding in the ball stud frame bracket for the z-bar. That is probably my biggest concern. Not sure if it can be done with the brake booster and steering column in place. But I'm prepared to remove the column.

From several sources, a 1967 steering column differs in some way from the 68/9. And according to Brewer's their floor-shift conversion collar will not work with the 67. Reproductions of the 68/9 collar run around $130, and used ones pop up sometimes for 100.

Being the impatient but cheap type (bad combination) I went ahead and acquired a cheap 68/9 auto column and set about to convert the collar, instead of forking out the 100+. The other benefit is the steering column will be fully re-furbished ahead of time.

Turns out the collar diameter is the same as a large tomato can. So after grinding off the PRND window frame I fit in a piece from the can, screwed it in place, gobbed on some Quiksteel, sanded then primed. Presto a floor shift collar conversion for $5.

 

[HYRDGOON]

You know I'm going to be watching this thing come together!

 

[69Runner]

Thanks Mike, June can't come fast enough. Until then there's lots of little things that should keep me busy. Another mystery right now is if I need a pilot bushing for the crank, so I'll probably drop the 727 sometime in May.

 

[TxDon]

Sweat equity beats money every time, I'm subscribed.

 

[Phil McGrath]

After its painted, only you will know what once was... Well us too, clean job. When I did my 4spd I welded my bracket in my 69 RR, it had the square notch in the top of the frame too locate it, I had a buddy hold it from the bottom with gloves while I mig'd it from the top. Done in 5min, I was smaller then, than I am today.

 

[69Runner]

Well, the countdown begins until I pick up the 4-speed stuff from my Uncle's place. One month to go. Meanwhile I have been keeping busy with our daily-drivers. Anyhow here is the finished job on the collar. Rattle can semi-gloss black with satin cc. Not perfect, but when it's installed no one will notice.

And here's something I have always wanted, an air/fuel gauge. Reading an old thread from Kern Dog

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...with-jets-power-valves-and-an-o2-guage.66645/

I ordered this AEM 30-4110. It looks good with the SCII's. I fired it up and found the idle was very lean. This should be lots of fun.

 

[Scatransit]

Thanks Mike, June can't come fast enough. Until then there's lots of little things that should keep me busy. Another mystery right now is if I need a pilot bushing for the crank, so I'll probably drop the 727 sometime in May.

Back in the day I had to have a bushing custom made at my machine shop. Since then I became aware of a special bushing from Ma MOPAR. I believe the part number is 5300918AB. I have not personally used/installed one, but have heard it takes the headache out of the 4 speed conversion. You may want to check it out...good luck with it!

 

[69Runner]

Back in the day I had to have a bushing custom made at my machine shop. Since then I became aware of a special bushing from Ma MOPAR. I believe the part number is 5300918AB. I have not personally used/installed one, but have heard it takes the headache out of the 4 speed conversion. You may want to check it out...good luck with it!

Thanks for the part# - priceless!

 

[69Runner]

Shiny stuff underneath, but that deep pan will not be needed for very long...

 

[69Runner]

Everything is coming together slowly but surely. Plan A is to weld the bracket next weekend. The brake booster and lines make access to the location tricky but we'll give it a shot. Otherwise plan B is to take the column out for better access. My plan to tear into things earlier was interrupted by all this darn nice driving weather.

Anyhow I installed the clutch pedal onto a 68/9 assembly, and the floor-shift column is ready to go. When the 67 brake pedal assembly comes out I will document the differences between the 67 and the converted 68/9, and figure out what to do at that point.

After lots of reading I decided to go with Sta-Lube 85W90 API/GL-4. Evidently the limited slip additive found in GL-5 is undesirable/detrimental to the brass synchronizers. Red Line has an interesting looking synthetic GL-4 for MT but I'm sticking with dino-oil.

A gallon of the Sta-Lube was $30 on amazon.

 

[69Runner]

Here's the flywheel, all cleaned up.

 

[Mike67]

Runner you did a great job on the column! I'm not familiar with the bell cranks on mopars but if you are not worried about being exactly oem, I highly recommend the McCloed hydraulic set up if you change directions. We just installed one on a 67 Nova and a 55 t-bird.. They are small and actually look pretty trick for a resto-mod...pretty inexpensive too..

 

[69Runner]

Runner you did a great job on the column! I'm not familiar with the bell cranks on mopars but if you are not worried about being exactly oem, I highly recommend the McCloed hydraulic set up if you change directions. We just installed one on a 67 Nova and a 55 t-bird.. They are small and actually look pretty trick for a resto-mod...pretty inexpensive too..

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to be using a McLeod Street Pro clutch which came with a new throw-out bearing. You have definitely given me Plan C, hydraulic throw-out, if my attempts to get that bracket welded in are unsuccessful.

Brewer's has an interesting looking setup which uses the original throw-out bearing but replaces the Z-bar with a slave cylinder. But the McLeod kit looks simpler.

 

[69Runner]

WELDING IN THE BALLSTUD BRACKET:

This has to one of the least documented (on the internet) yet most critical steps in the 4-speed conversion process. Installing an hydraulic clutch is a slick work-around but I was determined to make the Z-bar work.

My plan was to drive the car to my welder, take as little of his time as possible, then drive it home. Obviously if you have a nice MIG welder in your garage then you can work at your own pace. But how do you accomplish this with the steering column, brake booster, brake lines and starter wires cluttering up the area?

Being careful not to cut anything on the opposite side, I made 2 cuts to the inner fender from the wheel well side, then folded the piece down. That provided a clear shot at the bracket from the wheel well, and also from the engine compartment where required. Mission accomplished!

 

[69Runner]

Here's a better picture of the welded bracket. It should stay in place.

 

[Phil McGrath]

Its a pain in the rear but yours came out cleaner than my did, Good Job!

 

[69Runner]

Here's my pilot bushing hack. I looked high and low for the infamous pilot bushing, p/n 4338876 or SKF B287. Well, it is discontinued/unavailable. The supply has dried up. It has been replaced by the needle bearing style. Many would argue the needle bearings are fine, but I prefer to use the bushing style.

So I procured the readily available needle bearing p/n 53009180 (referenced by Scatransit above) or P4876056AA. It is also known as FC69907.1, quite prominently stamped on the side!

Without too much effort, I pressed out the needle bearing, leaving only the outer sleeve which measured 1" ID, 1.8125" OD. Then I got my hands on a 0.75" ID, 1.003" OD oilite flanged bushing. (The pressed-out needle bearing measured 1.002" OD, so I figured 1.003 would provide enough interference to stay in place).

With the help of some dry ice (to shrink down the bushing) and an arbor, the bushing pressed nicely into the sleeve. No more needle bearing to worry about. Hadn't seen this done anywhere else so just thought I'd share.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

Nice job! ;)

 

[69Runner]

With a clutch pedal I have found the high beam switch is in the wrong spot - right where I like to rest my left foot. Relocation is simple, and there's nothing on the other side (in the wheel well) to worry about.

It doesn't hurt to take a look at the plug for cracking or damage. The one pictured has seen some heat but it's solid.

The 2 holes are 1-5/8" center-to-center. Use a 1/8" drill. Original screws are usually self-tapping.

From the original lower hole, here's where a screwdriver (handle pictured above) comes through into the wheel well:

Finished, with the switch now located 5" higher. Still easy to press when needed but it's out of the way. Since the carpet will be replaced the old hole is not an issue, but it is easy enough to patch.

 

[69Runner]

The time has come to get this started. We're obviously not trying to break any olympic records here, just having fun with the process. I'm sure it could be done in a weekend but we'll stretch it over a few.

These wheel ramps have finally proved useful, with some 2x4's anchored to the floor to keep them from sliding when driving up.

This throttle pressure linkage can go, now you see it...

Now you still see it, sealed in a bag so none of it gets lost. From what I gather many are using the lokar setup but somebody will probably need it.