Removing motor with trans in car - any tips?

[440beep]

I'm pulling the 440 motor out of my 69' Super Bee and it has a GearVendor OD ("GV") unit on the 727 so the trans is much longer than a stock 727. Therefore, I can't pull the motor and trans out together.

Consulting the FS manual and Six Pack Handbook, it looks to be easy enough (I doubt this) to separate the trans from the motor while in the car, and just pull the motor and leave trans in car. Thought I may look and see if I can separate the GV tailshaft from the 727 body.

Is it really trouble free to separate the trans from the motor while in the car? Any tips please? Both for removing and putting motor back in and aligning with the trans? I don't have a lift so will be doing this with engine hoist, floor jacks and laying on floor.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Have done it in the back yard with a chain hoist hanging from a tree. Pulling the engine alone is not a problem.

 

[khryslerkid]

You'll need to support the rear of the engine when you separate the trans from it. You can let it rest on the center link, maybe have a thin piece of wood to place between the pan and center link. It is better to use a jack of some kind to support it.

A transmission jack with a strap to secure it from falling off, is good to have. If removing it with the car on well made jack stands, they make low profile trans jacks. Good luck!

When you unbolt the torque converter, push it back into the transmission. Maybe only a half an inch but it's not as likely to fall out as easily. It doesn't take much for it to fall off the shaft. Securing the TQ as soon as possible is a good practice.

 

[440beep]

I was going to support the motor via engine hoist from the top as I try and separate the two. Do I just unbolt the trans/flywheel and slide it back away from the motor?

You'll need to support the rear of the engine when you separate the trans from it. You can let it rest on the center link, maybe have a thin piece of wood to place between the pan and center link. It is better to use a jack of some kind to support it.

A transmission jack with a strap to secure it from falling off, is good to have. If removing it with the car on well made jack stands, they make low profile trans jacks. Good luck!

 

[khryslerkid]

I was going to support the motor via engine hoist from the top as I try and separate the two. Do I just unbolt the trans/flywheel and slide it back away from the motor?

You can support the engine by the engine hoist, might have to re-adjust it after you remove the trans.

You want to remove the inspection cover, then the torque converter bolts, then the bell housing bolts. You'll leave the flywheel or flexplate on the engine. Of course you'll already have the starter removed, trans linkages, speedometer cable, ect. ect.

 

[gdrill]

You will have to lift the engine high enough to clear the engine mounts on the crossmember in order to separate it from the trans. You do not have to slide the trans back, leave it's mount attached. Unbolt all your upper bellhousing bolts before you raise it. (no hand room once it's up!) Leave the bottom two in to keep them together at this point. Now you can go under and undo all the torque converter bolts and rotate and slide the converter back into the trans. Get a small floor jack under the trans. Now remove the engine mount bolts and raise it up above the mounts, your bellhousing will likely be touching the tunnel now, or close to it. Put your floor jack under the trans pan to support it at this height. I use a piece of wood as wide as the pan to disperse the weight evenly. Take just a little weight with the jack. This is the height you will reinstall the engine at so don't let it down. Now undo your last two bellhousing bolts and wiggle it ahead. Should slide right off. It helps if you have a leveling unit for the engine so it will be on the right angle. Otherwise you will want to set the chain to hang a little lower on the back end.
Hope this makes sense!

 

[khryslerkid]

I'm thinking he was removing the trans first! (Senior moment!)

Do what gdrill said...

 

[66Satellite47]

The Gdrill approach is pretty much what I've done. Support the trans, hold the motor up, unbolt the tork converter bolts, lift the motor out, making sure the trans is firmly supported. My 727 right now is held up by a small ratchet strap.

 

[moparwacko]

Gdrill'so got ya covered. Here's the transmission holderupperapparatusthingamagiggy you're gonna need. Can't remember the Snap on catalog # tho

there may be patent infringements so copy at your own risk.

 

[440beep]

Yea, this is going to be a real PIA. But really appreciating the advice and tips.

 

[moparwacko]

Yea, this is going to be a real PIA. But really appreciating the advice and tips.

It's really not that bad. I find the most difficult thing anymore is getting the hood off. Other than that I do the rest myself, in a 2 car garage with just an engine crane/with leveler and what you have. I find it easier to jack the front end up on 4" blocks (under tires) so crane has unobstructed rolling, then the rear high up on stands to get room to crawl under. It's more of a PITA unhooking/removing everything - mark stuff with masking tape if you need to.
Good luck n be safe under there

 

[mopar 3 B]

No need to disconect anything but kickdown linkage, starter, dust shield, flex to converter bolts and bellhouseing bolts from trans. Jachet straps work great.

 

[oldbee]

When you start picking up engine you could also remove mtr mounts from block, gives u a little more room.Little bit of grease smeared on snout of converter will help when going back together, sometimes it gets a little rusty & sticks to crank.

 

[mopar 3 B]

When you start picking up engine you could also remove mtr mounts from block, gives u a little more room.Little bit of grease smeared on snout of converter will help when going back together, sometimes it gets a little rusty & sticks to crank.

I use a extra deep 7 qt pan. Motor mount clearence has never been a problem.

 

[440beep]

Yes, will definitely smear some grease on converter snout, and last time I installed the current I had the motor mounts on and it wasn't a problem. Also have a 7qt pan which didn't create a problem when installing the motor.

I'm starting to not feel so bad about yanking the motor, and I really like the idea of being able to leave all the shifter linkage installed this time.

When you start picking up engine you could also remove mtr mounts from block, gives u a little more room.Little bit of grease smeared on snout of converter will help when going back together, sometimes it gets a little rusty & sticks to crank.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Yes, will definitely smear some grease on converter snout, and last time I installed the current I had the motor mounts on and it wasn't a problem. Also have a 7qt pan which didn't create a problem when installing the motor.

I'm starting to not feel so bad about yanking the motor, and I really like the idea of being able to leave all the shifter linkage installed this time.

Even with a manual trans car it works but makes it way more exciting.

 

[SlinktRR]

As someone who has done both I prefer installing and removing the whole drivetrain as one. Don't know how hard it is to take the GV off but I would consider anything that makes that happen.

Laying on your back fighting flexplate and bellhousing bolts with limited space leads to lots of cursing and busted knuckles. A lift makes things easy, sometimes people rent time on them using craigslist.

One of my favorite tasks with the last motor and trans install I did was calmly bolting the trans to the engine as it was suspended from the crane all while standing up and drinking beer. Then tilting the whole thing back into the engine bay.

 

[440beep]

Oh I hear you. The first time I installed this motor was before I had the GV, and it was way easier installing motor and trans as one piece. I'm considering buying a lift so this is easier as you say. As for the GV, I'm thinking I just need to separate the tailshaft and OD unit from the trans, then it can be yanked as one unit.

As someone who has done both I prefer installing and removing the whole drivetrain as one. Don't know how hard it is to take the GV off but I would consider anything that makes that happen.

Laying on your back fighting flexplate and bellhousing bolts with limited space leads to lots of cursing and busted knuckles. A lift makes things easy, sometimes people rent time on them using craigslist.

One of my favorite tasks with the last motor and trans install I did was calmly bolting the trans to the engine as it was suspended from the crane all while standing up and drinking beer. Then tilting the whole thing back into the engine bay.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I have tried pulling everything complete with the deep pan 1 time and will never do it again in a B body. Had to almost tilt everything vertical to get it out an 8 ft ceiling will not allow it.

 

[gdrill]

It's really not that bad. I just did my runner a few days ago. It is a 4spd, so it did take a little more effort to get the input shaft lined up correctly going back in, but way quicker than undoing everything else attached and pulling it all. Auto is much simpler. And I was on my back on the floor!