'67 HP exhaust manifolds

[big_shmoop]

I've done a bit of digging and research but I can't seem to find any definitive answer so I thought I'd throw it up to see what you guys have to say.

Can anyone tell me besides the casting number what the difference is between the '67 HP manifolds and the '68+? Are they clocked differently?


In the pictures below it appears that the passenger side flange is at a different angle, is that true (angle of the photos are different makes it hard to tell)? If so, is the drivers side the same?

(Pics borrowed from Brewer's Performance)

'67

'68

Thanks.

 

[gkent]

I think the angle of the photo makes the flange look to be at a different angle. HOWEVER, if you look at the front cylinder bolt bosses on the '67 the second one is definitely a lot thicker than on the '68. The correct '67 manifolds are out there, you just need to keep looking. Two years ago at Carlisle they were going for around $350 a set.

 

[big_shmoop]

I think the angle of the photo makes the flange look to be at a different angle. HOWEVER, if you look at the front cylinder bolt bosses on the '67 the second one is definitely a lot thicker than on the '68. The correct '67 manifolds are out there, you just need to keep looking. Two years ago at Carlisle they were going for around $350 a set.

Thanks for the reply.

I'm looking to run the HP manifolds for a stroker build that will live in my '67 Satellite. I have a set of nice from '68 already but in the interest of keeping things as factory appearing as possible I figured I'd look into the '67's. I have a lead on two sets that are a decent price, but wanted to get as much info as possible before committing to anything. If it's as simple as getting a '68 H-pipe to mate up with my exhaust and meet up with the different clocking on the later manifold, so be it. It's not a numbers matching concourse restoration, but my goal is to look as correct as possible when I pop the hood.

 

[gkent]

Well the only guys who will ever know are the numbers weirdos and they'll probably find a million other things to pick apart too so why worry about it !! Are you looking to please yourself or some guru that lives in his parent's basement.

 

[Mike in Boston]

I'm willing to bet it's the angle of the pics. LoOk at the casting #'s, one is right up on top, the other pic its almost out of view. One pic is from dead on, the other is almost underneath looking up.
The upper pic, the left manifold is balancing on the right. The bottom pic it's keeled over because it's too top heavy to sit on its flange

 

[big_shmoop]

Well the only guys who will ever know are the numbers weirdos and they'll probably find a million other things to pick apart too so why worry about it !! Are you looking to please yourself or some guru that lives in his parent's basement.

Oh I know the type...lol. Definitely building the car to drive/race/enjoy but trying to do my best to keep things as stock appearing as possible.

I'm willing to bet it's the angle of the pics. LoOk at the casting #'s, one is right up on top, the other pic its almost out of view. One pic is from dead on, the other is almost underneath looking up.
The upper pic, the left manifold is balancing on the right. The bottom pic it's keeled over because it's too top heavy to sit on its flange

That's what I am thinking as well, just throwing it out there to see if anyone knows for sure.

 

[69L48Z27]

It's my understand that the passenger side would the same between the two. Driver's side is one year on for 67. My 68 definetly kicks out like the one in the picture, pass side.

 

[gkent]

Just the fact that it has exhaust "manifolds" would be stock looking enough to fool most ford and chevy guys and even a heck of a lot of Mopar guys too.

 

[AR67GTX]

It's my understand that the passenger side would the same between the two. Driver's side is one year on for 67. My 68 definetly kicks out like the one in the picture, pass side.

I have a complete 68 440 in my 67 and when I installed TTI exhaust they swapped out the driver side head pipe for a 68 and the pass side was the same for both years from memory. The flange is rotated differently on the driver side. if you have the numbers on your manifolds TTI can definitely fix your up.

 

[monaco66coupe]

974's are one year only, and the pattern for the pipe is different and as said above. The 68's are still good, but Guys with a GTX will notice right away. Does it really matter? NO.

 

[big_shmoop]

Thanks for the info guys.

I'll probably just run the '68 manifolds and contact TTi when time comes for the 3" exhaust.

 

[monaco66coupe]

the 68's are good manifolds. I had to pay top dollar for my 974 manifolds in 2003 Since my GTX needed them. He demanded 175 Bucks. back then it was a lot. Now? I laugh and tease him all the time about it.

 

[dieseldazzle]

As bad as I want my engine to look stock, 500 stroker I'll be painting my trickflows, M1 intake and nitrous plate all turquoise and putting it all under a mopar air cleaner. I just can't bring myself to run the stock hp manifolds so more power to ya. I use dougs d452 or d451 (rb versus b)

 

[big_shmoop]

As bad as I want my engine to look stock, 500 stroker I'll be painting my trickflows, M1 intake and nitrous plate all turquoise and putting it all under a mopar air cleaner. I just can't bring myself to run the stock hp manifolds so more power to ya. I use dougs d452 or d451 (rb versus b)

I can understand that, but I'm going more for a stealthy approach. I'm gonna be looking at a low deck stroker probably in the 470 cubic inch range. I want it to look and sound as stock as possible until I put my foot in in it. Headers will always be an option, but I'm looking to mimic close to what Andy Finkbeiner was able to get pull through the HP manifolds. Romp around the streets most the time and then go to the track for some low 12's/high 11's on pump gas.

 

[monaco66coupe]

The high quality TTi's will go a long way to give you what you want. I am using my stock 974's, but I am using TTI's to bump things up a bit.

 

[big_shmoop]

The high quality TTi's will go a long way to give you what you want. I am using my stock 974's, but I am using TTI's to bump things up a bit.

I hear nothing but good things about TTi, so when the time comes they'll be getting my business. If I ever go the header route, they'll probably get another call.

 

[monaco66coupe]

In 2003 I Installed one of the first crate Hemi's in my car. Big mistake, but that is another story. But, I had TTI Headers and three Inch exhaust. The engine Idled 20 minutes in August with the temps at 95 degrees outside, and I could actually touch the pipe by the trans, and under the hood the temps were cooler than stock manifolds. Excellent! I hated headers because of the heat, but the TTI's were not like that. They were ceramic coated, which helped,I guess.

 

[big_shmoop]

In 2003 I Installed one of the first crate Hemi's in my car. Big mistake, but that is another story. But, I had TTI Headers and three Inch exhaust. The engine Idled 20 minutes in August with the temps at 95 degrees outside, and I could actually touch the pipe by the trans, and under the hood the temps were cooler than stock manifolds. Excellent! I hated headers because of the heat, but the TTI's were not like that. They were ceramic coated, which helped,I guess.

Sounds like you have a nice ride there...but a Hemi is never a mistake. Haha. No matter how bad things went.

 

[monaco66coupe]

Hey, it was bad. Chrysler was having quality issues. The engine arrived in a crate, all good. It had a 383 distributer in it. Then, after getting it running, it smoked and made the most obnoxious noise. I had fought with it for days getting the TTI headers to fit with Power steering. They didn't. Then I had to pull the engine back out. I took it to my engine shop friend for a tear down to Investigate the noise. The engine as it turns out was never properly bored and honed. Plus, the crank bearings were all mismatched. My friend said the engine wouldn't have lasted ten minutes of driving. There was no warranty, as I was a week past the 90 days. It cost me a $1,000.00 to repair the engine. Fortunately, my buddy at the Chrysler dealer had sold the engine to me at cost. When the engine was done, I posted it on Ebay for sale. God was with me again, as Chrysler had discontinued sales of the engine due to quality issues. So, there were none to be had. But, since I could prove with receipts that the engine was repaired, it sold right off. I was able to recoup my Investment, then I re-Installed my perfect original 440 HP drivetrain, and sold the TTI exhaust, the linkage, and everything else pertaining to the Hemi. I still have the Transmission I had rebuilt to hemi specs, and the Hemi air cleaner. The car drives perfect to this day. Never again.

 

[dieseldazzle]

I can understand that, but I'm going more for a stealthy approach. I'm gonna be looking at a low deck stroker probably in the 470 cubic inch range. I want it to look and sound as stock as possible until I put my foot in in it. Headers will always be an option, but I'm looking to mimic close to what Andy Finkbeiner was able to get pull through the HP manifolds. Romp around the streets most the time and then go to the track for some low 12's/high 11's on pump gas.

You'll be disappointed. I don't care what Andyf was able to do, for the average and above average fellow it ain't happening. I'm not saying it can't be done but factory appreciating stock tire cars, Andyf and all the pros on moparts etc etc are still leaving power on the table and for the average or above average pump gas garage guy it's just too much. Don't get me wrong I had a 446 inch edelbrock headed 68 charger that would fry the tires in any gear on street tires with ported hp manifolds but even then I knew what power I was giving up. Dyno me this dyno me that I'm talking about what I've done and I've experienced not read about.

To each their own brother I'm just hear to tell you my experience.

This is a stroker, h beam rod, 1/16 ring pack, arp2000 rod bolt 438 inch low deck. It's a turd cuz of the stock manifolds and tiny carb...i built it for a guy. Looks stock, but man what a runner it could be with a few changes...