• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Timing Chain RB: Too Tight?

threewood

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
2:02 AM
Joined
May 30, 2014
Messages
7,285
Reaction score
12,164
Location
SE NM
Finished checking my lifters for rotation and went to put on the new timing chain set from Summit so I can degree the cam. Here is the new set... https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6606r-b

The cam sprocket would not go on with the cam installed. 2 of three bolts would go in but the 3rd was off center. I had to pull the cam out about 3", get the sprocket in place with the 3 bolts, align the marks and tap the set onto the cam/crank snout. Pushing in on the chain with my finger yields about 1/16" give, 3/32" at most. Seems strange to have to pull the cam out to get the set on. Suggestions? Am I paranoid?

Block was not align honed so I doubt any machine work on the bottom end is the cause.
20170313_014127.jpg
20170313_014255.jpg
 
Tension sure looks right. I've had a couple of sets that took a little "wiggling" to get the gear on to the cam. See what others say.
 
Tight is good ! Did you walk both sprockets on together evenly or do the crank 1st then cam ? Both my 383 and 340 were very tight, but I walked both sprockets on evenly without issue. If you had to pull the cam out to get the sprocket on, how did you put the cam retainer back on ???
 
Tight is good ! Did you walk both sprockets on together evenly or do the crank 1st then cam ? Both my 383 and 340 were very tight, but I walked both sprockets on evenly without issue. If you had to pull the cam out to get the sprocket on, how did you put the cam retainer back on ???

Walked them both back at the same time, cam sprocket was a touch low for it to bolt up. With the cam pulled out and sprocket bolted on, slid both sprockets in together tapping with my palm. Cam slid on back with some palm taps.

No retainer on RB, flat tappet sloped lobes pull cam back against the block as well as the intermediate shaft worm gears.

I can't really spin the assembly as the machine shop stil has my crank bolt.
 
Tension sure looks right. I've had a couple of sets that took a little "wiggling" to get the gear on to the cam. See what others say.

I know tight is good but I wasn't sure if there could be a too tight while still able to bolt it up. It is a nice set for the price and has 2 degree increments for adjustment.
 
Once you get your bolt back, rotate the motor by hand, checking for any binding at the chain. If none, it will go. Yeah, it's a fairly tight fit.
 
I know tight is good but I wasn't sure if there could be a too tight while still able to bolt it up. It is a nice set for the price and has 2 degree increments for adjustment.

Never thought about too tight since they naturally stretch.
 
It seems rather tight to me just based on your pic. Have you tested it based on the factory service manual to check the limits?
 
That Summit timing set isn't too bad for the price and has only one serious flaw that I have found. The cam sprocket has a great deal of proud metal on the teeth that should be removed with a jewelers file. The machining operation was done in one direction on the teeth and pushed sharp edges to one side of the teeth that will be worn off as the chain passes over the teeth during operation. Those pieces of metal could be picked up by and passed through the oil pump before they are removed by the oil filter. Of course its not only the Summit set that has this problem as most of the non-hardened billet steel cam sprockets will have this same proud metal left during machining.
 
with everything connected i would rotate the crank/cam and check for that the tension remains equal on the chain during cycling. if not, then one or both sprockets are not concentric.
 
That Summit timing set isn't too bad for the price and has only one serious flaw that I have found. The cam sprocket has a great deal of proud metal on the teeth that should be removed with a jewelers file. The machining operation was done in one direction on the teeth and pushed sharp edges to one side of the teeth that will be worn off as the chain passes over the teeth during operation. Those pieces of metal could be picked up by and passed through the oil pump before they are removed by the oil filter. Of course its not only the Summit set that has this problem as most of the non-hardened billet steel cam sprockets will have this same proud metal left during machining.
i'm stuck on the cloyes chains. i do have a hughes pro gear 4000 (?) i'm running that seems to be very good.
 
i'm stuck on the cloyes chains.
Same here...can't beat a double-row roller. Went that way, first motor, and never looked back.
Almost funny. Had a buddy with a early Toyota, who swore the timing chain was wore. Only time I touched one, just to help him. Got to the chain, stock was a double-row roller, just as good as day one. And, the car had 500,000 miles on it!
 
It seems rather tight to me just based on your pic. Have you tested it based on the factory service manual to check the limits?

The only mention of it I saw in the service manual is to replace if deflecton reaches 3/16".

Anyway, machine shop obviously lost the bolt so I have a new one on the way. Ordered from Summit yesterday, delivery by end of day today so I should be able to spin it after it gets here to check for any bind.
 
The only mention of it I saw in the service manual is to replace if deflecton reaches 3/16".

Anyway, machine shop obviously lost the bolt so I have a new one on the way. Ordered from Summit yesterday, delivery by end of day today so I should be able to spin it after it gets here to check for any bind.
You do understand that a finger test is NOT deflection, right? That is by movement by placing a scale next to the cam sprocket and and rotating counter clockwise with a certain torque(head on, head off) to measure deflection...It is called Stretch...I would think you may be OK but if it is too tight wouldn't that lead to premature wear of the front cam bearing?
 
Last edited:
If its too tight he never would have got it on.
I never had to pull the cam out in order to get a timing chain on....Furthermore, I hope that bearing did not get nicked/scored when it went back in.....
 
He probably didn't "have to" pull it either, but he did. If the chain was to tight he wouldn't have got the cam back in.
 
Back
Top