Mike in Boston
Well-Known Member
Any pics of the Zbar with that spring seal holder thingy, that wraps around the bar, in its position? I can't figure out its purpose.
Z bar spring thingy?
- Thread starter Mike in Boston
- Start date
Don't have a pic handy but it's purpose is to retain the nylon bushing halves in the tube.
The bushing halves are grooved. The "spring thingy" ends go in the grooves. Does it hold the bushing in? Not really, once they're in and around the ball they can't go anywhere ... it holds the z bar from moving from side to side out of alignment.
texas69bee
Well-Known Member
Seriously !?!?
1) place bushing halves over outer ball stud and insert in z bar
2) place bushing halves over inner ball stud (on bellhousing)
3) push z bar over inner ball/bushing halves until groove aligns with holes - install clip
4) position outer ball stud on frame bracket and tighten nut.
Now did that really need a "pro" ??
Mine was shoved in by who knows who. It was a bad install. Almost anything can be a crap job I guess. Lots of jobs on this site are described as simple. Simple for those who have done them before.
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This is a very timely post for me, thanks. 
I'm about to put mine back together this weekend with replacement parts from Brewer's, in fact.
There's a pic of this in the factory service manual also, but actual pics help so much more.
Unfortunately, my z-bar was sort of cobbled out of a later one or something and only has one tiny hole for the end of the spring clip. Heck, it didn't even have a spring clip when I took it all apart.
I also need to figure out how the z-bar goes back on the end of the clutch rod coming from the pedal, too. Can I beg a pic of that as well?
Thanks!
I'm about to put mine back together this weekend with replacement parts from Brewer's, in fact.
There's a pic of this in the factory service manual also, but actual pics help so much more.
Unfortunately, my z-bar was sort of cobbled out of a later one or something and only has one tiny hole for the end of the spring clip. Heck, it didn't even have a spring clip when I took it all apart.
I also need to figure out how the z-bar goes back on the end of the clutch rod coming from the pedal, too. Can I beg a pic of that as well?
Thanks!
texas69bee
Well-Known Member
There is a clip that hasn't been installed over the pin yet.
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
Was this a dry fit prior to placing the dust boot?
texas69bee
Well-Known Member
Wow, someone has a good eye for detail. I do have the boot. I left it off during a dry fit and test runs. Plenty of work to do yet.
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
Thanks! I also like how you have everything set up and detailed...Looks great!
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Wow, very nice work. I have all new stuff from Brewer's for the bottom end of things, but my old homebrew z-bar isn't nearly as pretty, for example.
I think I'd turn the adjuster nut around, so that the flat shoulder butts up against the thick washer instead of the castle locking part of it.
I am more concerned with things like which side the pedal rod hits the pivot on the z-bar and such. I always fight to get that dang thing back together.
I think I'd turn the adjuster nut around, so that the flat shoulder butts up against the thick washer instead of the castle locking part of it.
I am more concerned with things like which side the pedal rod hits the pivot on the z-bar and such. I always fight to get that dang thing back together.
The z bar installs with the clip at the bellhousing end.
The clutch rod will only go on one way because its got a couple bends in it. The wrong way and it won't even be close.
Don't forget rubber seals go on the ball studs to seal the ends of the z bar.
Plastic washers go on each pin before the clutch rods.
It just so happens that the Z bar is what got me working on my own car.
Back in '73 after buying my '69 RR the clutch pedal stopped coming right up. You could pull it with your toe and it would pop all the way up. I looked at every part for days wondering what it could be and at some point we (wrongly) determined that the spring clip was a spring and was broken. The next week a friend told me about "the best mechanic in the world". Henry was his name and he was the biggest black guy I've ever seen - with the stub of a cigar hanging out the side of his mouth. I explained the problem and the first words out of his mouth were "hundred bucks". Talking to the guy was like talking to a brick wall - he knew everything and didn't want any thoughts or opinions and wasn't about to offer any verbal help or confirmation. So, I left the car for a day and the next day picked it up. A hundred buck and the pedal comes all the way up.
A couple weeks later I'm crawling under the car for some reason and spot his "repair" ... a large spring on the clutch fork secured (I can't remember where) with a coat hanger - a COMPLETE coat hanger - not just a piece of one !!!
**** ME !!
A good look at things and it was obvious that whatever was inside the z bar was broken because the bell end wasn't centered on the pivot like the frame end. I took it apart and found worn out bushings. I put it back together and went and bought the new bushings on Monday - my first parts purchase from Chrysler. They cost me 5 cents per half.
If there was ever someone I wanted to kill it was that cocksucker Henry. I actually did confront him about it and his reply was "when you picked up your car, did the clutch pedal come all the way up, yes or no". **** you! And I spread the word.
Back in '73 after buying my '69 RR the clutch pedal stopped coming right up. You could pull it with your toe and it would pop all the way up. I looked at every part for days wondering what it could be and at some point we (wrongly) determined that the spring clip was a spring and was broken. The next week a friend told me about "the best mechanic in the world". Henry was his name and he was the biggest black guy I've ever seen - with the stub of a cigar hanging out the side of his mouth. I explained the problem and the first words out of his mouth were "hundred bucks". Talking to the guy was like talking to a brick wall - he knew everything and didn't want any thoughts or opinions and wasn't about to offer any verbal help or confirmation. So, I left the car for a day and the next day picked it up. A hundred buck and the pedal comes all the way up.
A couple weeks later I'm crawling under the car for some reason and spot his "repair" ... a large spring on the clutch fork secured (I can't remember where) with a coat hanger - a COMPLETE coat hanger - not just a piece of one !!!
**** ME !!
A good look at things and it was obvious that whatever was inside the z bar was broken because the bell end wasn't centered on the pivot like the frame end. I took it apart and found worn out bushings. I put it back together and went and bought the new bushings on Monday - my first parts purchase from Chrysler. They cost me 5 cents per half.
If there was ever someone I wanted to kill it was that cocksucker Henry. I actually did confront him about it and his reply was "when you picked up your car, did the clutch pedal come all the way up, yes or no". **** you! And I spread the word.
texas69bee
Well-Known Member
Then the nut will be on backwards per service manual.Wow, very nice work. I have all new stuff from Brewer's for the bottom end of things, but my old homebrew z-bar isn't nearly as pretty, for example.
I think I'd turn the adjuster nut around, so that the flat shoulder butts up against the thick washer instead of the castle locking part of it.
I am more concerned with things like which side the pedal rod hits the pivot on the z-bar and such. I always fight to get that dang thing back together.
There is a reason the nut goes on "backwards". The washer presses on the taper and the pressure holds it tight - otherwise it would work itself loose.
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Right you are, as the FSM diagram that Texas Bee posted shows.
A thousand pardons, sir.
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You buying?
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