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Glass intact when using a rotisserie, thoughts please

dart6

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I have a headache
I happen to have a 4000lb rotisserie.
Could I put a 70 RR on the rotisserie with the GLASS intact to sandblast underneath.
I would remove the engine and trans and rear axle.

Against my better judgement i bought a 70RR that had a resto so to speak. Many new parts, reco driveline and new paint and interior from the USA to NZ.
The trunk floor is the only sheetmetal that was replaced which was done nicely except the welds are 3in stitch welds 12in apart. Not so nice
The rest of the sheetmetal is very nice.
I just recently put the car in for compliance which went well but requires a a repair certifier to pass the trunk repair.
The certifier looked at it on a hoist and to pass i have to sandblast all the new underseal from the front doors back, expose all the trunk welds and add more weld.
This has been accessed by 2 repair certifiers with the same result.
 
never done it but i imagine the body would flex and COULD damage the glass... If you have access to a drive up lift i think that might be a better option but ive never sandblasted a car or had one on a roto...
 
silica dust is like sandpaper and will do a lot of destruction......... seal everything up super good.......blasting on a finished car is not something I would want to do
 
No, you cannot do that. I think you're only option is to get the car up in the air and scrape off all the undercoating by hand with a putty knife.....I'm dead serious about that. I will take you about 1 week working 3-4 hrs. a day. It will be the easiest & fastest way to get it done. I strongly suggest you take a whole bunch of pictures while the undercoating is off so you never have to go through it again. What a pain!
 
No, you cannot do that. I think you're only option is to get the car up in the air and scrape off all the undercoating by hand with a putty knife.....I'm dead serious about that. I will take you about 1 week working 3-4 hrs. a day. It will be the easiest & fastest way to get it done. I strongly suggest you take a whole bunch of pictures while the undercoating is off so you never have to go through it again. What a pain!
You ain't kidding, I used a heat gun and putty knife for some and a needle scaler in some hard to reach areas, Was not fun
 
You probably have someone evaluating your car that knows less about it than you do.
Not pertinent to your original post, but I feel your pain.
(Rage against the system.)
 
I have lost a windshield due to flex in the body. What a PITA, had the car sold, but not delivered yet. The real issue is not car show related but inspection related for operation in that country. You might have to put it on a lift and have it cleaned and repaired for compliance. This is different from wanting to clean something to the more important "have to do it" to keep the car. NZ is not the states and things are different automotive legally then here. IF YOU can do some of the work yourself, you can support the car by the wheels and remove enough from the bottom to get at most of what you need to do, I think. I will bet the gas tank might be in the way.
 
Removing undercoating I use MAP gas and scrapers/wire brushes/picks...Quick and effective...

Outer sheet metal(fenders, quarters etc) I use propane.....
 
Works great

IMG_0491.JPG IMG_0492.JPG
 
So this might be a dumb question, but why not ask the guy certifying the car if he can inspect the OTHER side of the metal? Rather than scraping all the undercoating off, which is a horrible job, maybe he would agree to looking at the top of the sheet metal? If he is OK looking at one side, why not the inside/top? It seems easier to pull out the seats and carpet rather than going at the underside...

Just trying to think outside the box.........................:rolleyes:
 
"3in stitch welds 12in apart. Not so nice"
Sounds like the welds HAVE to be corrected. Welding does not mix well with flammable "stuff".
 
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