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Bracing A Fiberglass 6 pack Hood

69'Net

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Awhile back I put a fiberglass lift-off hood on my 69 coronet. Because I didn't know any better I bought a race weight hood. Well on days with strong head winds I'm getting a lot of flex in the hood. Shocker right. Most of the flex is down the sides of the hood near the fender and the scoop wants to push up away from the engine bay. My solution is to buy pieces of aluminum angle and fiberglass over them on the underside of the hood. Is this a terrible idea? Any suggestions?
 
Awhile back I put a fiberglass lift-off hood on my 69 coronet. Because I didn't know any better I bought a race weight hood. Well on days with strong head winds I'm getting a lot of flex in the hood. Shocker right. Most of the flex is down the sides of the hood near the fender and the scoop wants to push up away from the engine bay. My solution is to buy pieces of aluminum angle and fiberglass over them on the underside of the hood. Is this a terrible idea? Any suggestions?
what brand hood did you get?
 
AAR Quality Fiberglass/Stinger Fiberglass out of Florida
 
You only need something strong enough to hold the fiberglass mat till it cures. Things like Styrofoam & cardboard work just fine. Like wrapping paper tubes, water pipe insulation.
 
You only need something strong enough to hold the fiberglass mat till it cures. Things like Styrofoam & cardboard work just fine. Like wrapping paper tubes, water pipe insulation.

I didn't think of that. I imagine the added fiberglass would be enough to hold it without adding aluminum. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I think you're idea is a good one. Make sure to scuff the underside of the hood for best adhesion.
 
This hood (home-made) uses cardboard tubes cut in half. You need to use something the resin won't dissolve - which includes many foams. The problem is you have to buy the foam and mix up a batch of resin to find out. Better to just use cardboard right from the start and have no worries.

hood underside 1.JPG
hood1.JPG
 
So when you do this ...
Sand down a strip about 3 times the width of whatever you use for support.
Cut your 'glass strips so they just about cover that whole width when laid over the support.
Go with a minimum 4 layers of mat.
Lay them out on newspaper and wet with resin, add a layer, wet, add a layer, etc.. Only use enough resin to wet the mat.
When you've got the desired thickness THEN lay them all over the support at once. Push the mat down with the brush and tap out all the air.
Go easy on the hardener. Use a little and it will take longer to cure. Use too much and you're screwed!
Its the glass shape that provides the strength so there's no need to attach your supports to the hood first, you can adjust them when you lay on the mat.
 
This hood (home-made) uses cardboard tubes cut in half. You need to use something the resin won't dissolve - which includes many foams. The problem is you have to buy the foam and mix up a batch of resin to find out. Better to just use cardboard right from the start and have no worries.

View attachment 572216 View attachment 572217

Hey Stanton, please walk us through how you built that BEAUTIFUL home-made fiberglass hood. I've done a lot of fiberglass patches over the years, but never anything even close to a complete hood. Did you make a mold from a metal hood first or what?
 
So I made this hood back around 1974 and made it because my original flew open when I forgot to put the hood pins in and it buckled the corners. I bent those back to the original body lines but the metal top and bottom was still too out of shape to reuse. I bondo'd that up so I could make a mold. I also bondo'd the side and back edges so I could have a good lip on the mold and finished product. On the original hood I flipped the inserts over so the flat side was up - molding the fins would have likely been a failure and if I ever wanted I could cut out the glass hood for those inserts. The gaps around the hood inserts were filled with plasticine which won't stick to gelcoat. The hood had any imperfections filled and was wet sanded then given three coats of Johnson's floor wax as a mold release. A local fiberglass guy then sprayed the gelcoat. I layed on two layers of a mat I believe is called valeen which is a very fine mat. Too coarse of a mat and it pulls the gelcoat and you see it in the finished product. I let that set up then layed in 4 layers of mat and a final layer of woven roven I think its called - a VERY heavy cloth. Once that set up I attached a 2x4 wood frame using layers of mat and woven roven in key places to keep the whole mold rigid. You want a rigid mold so the finished product is the proper shape. Once the original hood was pulled from the mold I went over it and sanded out any minor imperfections. Any small spots that needed filling were done with jelcoat. The whole process was then repeated to make the actual hood - 3 coats of wax, spray the gelcoat, lay in the layers of mat and a final layer of the heavy cloth. The cardboard supports were then put in and covered with mat. All the "wet" work after the jelcoat had dried was done continuously with slow curing resin. I probably left it for 3 days before popping the hood out. You want to let it cure in the mold long enough to retain its shape.

Keep in mind the better the mold the better the finished product. If you're going to pop out one item you can use a crappy mold and pretty up the final piece. But if you plan to pop out a few items from the same mold its worth the time and effort to make the mold as perfect as possible.

That '70's scoop is a plastic Harwood unit that was added in afterwards. I still have the hood although no intention to ever use it again. The only issue is cracking bondo in a couple places where the scoop was bondo'd after being glassed in. But considering I used to lift it off by the hole in the scoop its not really surprising !!

I made one more hood from that mold which covered all my expenses. I sold the mold about 8 years ago to a vendor that hits most of the big swapmeets and he
Picture 001.jpg
Picture 005.jpg
sells hoods popped from it.
 
So I made this hood back around 1974 and made it because my original flew open when I forgot to put the hood pins in and it buckled the corners. I bent those back to the original body lines but the metal top and bottom was still too out of shape to reuse. I bondo'd that up so I could make a mold. I also bondo'd the side and back edges so I could have a good lip on the mold and finished product. On the original hood I flipped the inserts over so the flat side was up - molding the fins would have likely been a failure and if I ever wanted I could cut out the glass hood for those inserts. The gaps around the hood inserts were filled with plasticine which won't stick to gelcoat. The hood had any imperfections filled and was wet sanded then given three coats of Johnson's floor wax as a mold release. A local fiberglass guy then sprayed the gelcoat. I layed on two layers of a mat I believe is called valeen which is a very fine mat. Too coarse of a mat and it pulls the gelcoat and you see it in the finished product. I let that set up then layed in 4 layers of mat and a final layer of woven roven I think its called - a VERY heavy cloth. Once that set up I attached a 2x4 wood frame using layers of mat and woven roven in key places to keep the whole mold rigid. You want a rigid mold so the finished product is the proper shape. Once the original hood was pulled from the mold I went over it and sanded out any minor imperfections. Any small spots that needed filling were done with jelcoat. The whole process was then repeated to make the actual hood - 3 coats of wax, spray the gelcoat, lay in the layers of mat and a final layer of the heavy cloth. The cardboard supports were then put in and covered with mat. All the "wet" work after the jelcoat had dried was done continuously with slow curing resin. I probably left it for 3 days before popping the hood out. You want to let it cure in the mold long enough to retain its shape.

Keep in mind the better the mold the better the finished product. If you're going to pop out one item you can use a crappy mold and pretty up the final piece. But if you plan to pop out a few items from the same mold its worth the time and effort to make the mold as perfect as possible.

That '70's scoop is a plastic Harwood unit that was added in afterwards. I still have the hood although no intention to ever use it again. The only issue is cracking bondo in a couple places where the scoop was bondo'd after being glassed in. But considering I used to lift it off by the hole in the scoop its not really surprising !!

I made one more hood from that mold which covered all my expenses. I sold the mold about 8 years ago to a vendor that hits most of the big swapmeets and he View attachment 572277 View attachment 572278 sells hoods popped from it.

to the OP, u didn`t say how many hoof pins u have in it. THREE IN FRONT, BACK, AND A CENTER ONE IN THE SIDES WILL CURE MOST PROBLEMS. I USED TO RUN ONE OFF THE CARB STUD EVEN.
 
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