Any car alarm wiring experts?

[451Mopar]

I am re-wiring my '69 Coronet with trunk mounted battery, EFI, A/C, power windows, and also adding power door locks. I have a Viper 5704V car alarm that can do remote start and lock/unlock the doors, plus a bunch of other stuff like has its own backup battery.
How hard is it going to be to wire the alarm system into the old car harness?
Anyone done this?
I'm really interested in how others delt with mounting all the parts like antenna, sensors, siren, relays, and adding the power door locks.
Would it be better to mount some of the parts under the rear seat area or center console?

 

[65wgn440]

Have installed several on family members cars, but never a classic car. Never had much of a problem. But I think you would want easy accessibility to box/relays/fuses in the event of future issues. And you would have quite a bit of extra wiring work to put anything under rear seat area.

 

[powermyster]

I used to install a lot of alarms. Been a while since I done any though and never done any one very old cars. Oldest I remember is an e30 bmw.

Are you comfortable with wiring, testing and soldering??

Not sure about the remote start end if your running a carb? Some allow for programmable crank time. You’ll need elec choke anyway.

You’ll need to be familiar with wiring relays too if your going to run a accessories. Happy to give some input

 

[451Mopar]

Q: Are you comfortable with wiring, testing and soldering??
A: Yes, I was Mil-Std-2000A soldered certified back in the 1990's. My background is electronics test engineering, but the last 10+ years has mostly been software testing.

Q: Not sure about the remote start end if your running a carb? Some allow for programmable crank time. You’ll need elec choke anyway.
A: No carb, Edelbrock XT port EFI, with FAST 2.0 ECU and FAST dual-sync dist. I also have the "Bitwriter" alarm programmer that allows adjusting the cranking time.

Q: You’ll need to be familiar with wiring relays too if your going to run a accessories.
A: Yes, the wiring of relays and diodes, but not sure what is the best location for mounting them?

Happy to give some input
Thank you, although I have electronics background, this alarm system is new to me, and it looks like with the bitwriter you can do various configurations of the programming? It seems most of the install instructions are for newer cars, so I'm working through the wiring to see where I will need to add relays and diodes.

Some more specific questions:
The car is a Convertible, and the battery relocated to the trunk.
What is a good place to mount the proximity sensor? I was thinking under the center console?
Also, is there preferred zones for the various sensors.

 

[powermyster]

Q: Are you comfortable with wiring, testing and soldering??
A: Yes, I was Mil-Std-2000A soldered certified back in the 1990's. My background is electronics test engineering, but the last 10+ years has mostly been software testing.

Q: Not sure about the remote start end if your running a carb? Some allow for programmable crank time. You’ll need elec choke anyway.
A: No carb, Edelbrock XT port EFI, with FAST 2.0 ECU and FAST dual-sync dist. I also have the "Bitwriter" alarm programmer that allows adjusting the cranking time.

Q: You’ll need to be familiar with wiring relays too if your going to run a accessories.
A: Yes, the wiring of relays and diodes, but not sure what is the best location for mounting them?

Happy to give some input
Thank you, although I have electronics background, this alarm system is new to me, and it looks like with the bitwriter you can do various configurations of the programming? It seems most of the install instructions are for newer cars, so I'm working through the wiring to see where I will need to add relays and diodes.

Some more specific questions:
The car is a Convertible, and the battery relocated to the trunk.
What is a good place to mount the proximity sensor? I was thinking under the center console?
Also, is there preferred zones for the various sensors.

Sound like this will be a piece of cake for you. I usually used do all my wiring up front. Work out where is a good place to hide the control unit and starter kill relays(you don’t want anyone to easily undo what you’ve done, come to think of it starter kill may be poor choice of immobilisation if you can just bridge the relay on the bulkhead. Maybe kill the coil.). Once I found my location I would measure out loom, cut it and tape it all off with branches going to where you need them. Make my connections and tape new looms in with old. Loads of tape for these jobs

It’s a while since I fit them, but from memory the proximity should go close to middle of the car. For me
Many where up front under ashtray/gear lever area. Once for loose you can adjust for warning and full alarm sensitivity and see if it fits your requirements

 

[451Mopar]

Disabling the vehicle is easy with the alarm and EFI integrated. Getting it to run might be the difficult part, and the really hard part is going to be documenting all the changes and creating a new schematic diagram to remind me what was done if I need to troubleshoot in the future.
So far I think I'm only up to about 20 spdt relays in the car, or combination of 8 spdt, and 6 dual relays (14 total)
Power windows up & down x 4 windows = 8 spdt or 4 of the dual relays
Power door locks / unlock x 2 doors = 4 spdt or 2 of the dual relays
High Beam
Low Beam
Horn
Cooling Fan 1
Cooling Fan 2
Cooling Fan 3
A/C compressor
EFI Fuel Pump
Might be more for interfacing the alarm circuits?

 

[powermyster]

**** that’s a lot of relays. You’ll be fine though It’s and age since i fit power door locks or windows. Even back when I was doing a lot of this here wasn’t much call for them.

 

[451Mopar]

**** that’s a lot of relays. You’ll be fine though It’s and age since i fit power door locks or windows. Even back when I was doing a lot of this here wasn’t much call for them.

Add a few more for power convertible top. The convertible top switch shows signs of getting hot. I'm not sure I like the way the factory wired wired it in the first place where it is always hot. I might put a lock-out switch in the circuit. I did that lock-out switch on the power windows already so the kids can't roll the windows up/down, like on newer cars.

I still have several of the old Tyco VBA-1001 relays (I think they discontinued them?) that I may use for the DC Motor circuits as it will clean-up the wiring compared to using two SPDT relays.
https://datasheet.octopart.com/VBA-1002-TE-Connectivity-datasheet-32260764.pdf