Alignment spec sheet

[paytonpl3]

Does anyone have the specs for a front end alignment for a 70 Dodge Coronet?
Thanks sam

 

[Speedbird]

https://www.bigblockmopar.nl/tech/mopar-wheel-alignment-settings/

 

[paytonpl3]

Thanks so much.

 

[Cranky]

Are you using radial tires or the bias ply of the day? With radials I change the specs to suit me.....

 

[paytonpl3]

Are you using radial tires or the bias ply of the day? With radials I change the specs to suit me.....

Yes i am using radial tires, what specs did you use?

 

[Cranky]

Yes i am using radial tires, what specs did you use?

I go by how the car feels mostly but I like a lot of camber and caster. I also lower my front ends if possible but cars with headers usually don't like being much below stock ride height. Are you aligning it yourself or giving the specs to a shop? If you can find a shop that's willing to use your specs, that's great but I never could find one around here. Heck, it was hard just to find a shop that knew how to align an older Mopar. If you are a novice and do not corner burn very often then I'd recommend the High Performance/Street handling specs from that Mopar site. If you're not auto crossing etc but like to drive briskly then go for the top end of the specs on the High Performance/Street handling. I'm a little nuts and have even done the bigger tires on one side of the car to mess with some guys in a couple of sharp turns on my way to work They couldn't figure out how this old 66 Belvedere without sway bars was hanging with them on a couple of left handers lol

 

[paytonpl3]

I go by how the car feels mostly but I like a lot of camber and caster. I also lower my front ends if possible but cars with headers usually don't like being much below stock ride height. Are you aligning it yourself or giving the specs to a shop? If you can find a shop that's willing to use your specs, that's great but I never could find one around here. Heck, it was hard just to find a shop that knew how to align an older Mopar. If you are a novice and do not corner burn very often then I'd recommend the High Performance/Street handling specs from that Mopar site. If you're not auto crossing etc but like to drive briskly then go for the top end of the specs on the High Performance/Street handling. I'm a little nuts and have even done the bigger tires on one side of the car to mess with some guys in a couple of sharp turns on my way to work They couldn't figure out how this old 66 Belvedere without sway bars was hanging with them on a couple of left handers lol

I have a shop that will align it for me if I give them the specs.

 

[Cranky]

I have a shop that will align it for me if I give them the specs.

Make sure they know about how the suspension is set up on the car. The upper control arms are used for all of the settings with cam adjusters and they do NOT go full circle. If some gorilla grunts on them trying to turn them beyond their range, damage will be done and it's not exactly easy to fix.

 

[paytonpl3]

Make sure they know about how the suspension is set up on the car. The upper control arms are used for all of the settings with cam adjusters and they do NOT go full circle. If some gorilla grunts on them trying to turn them beyond their range, damage will be done and it's not exactly easy to fix.

Thanks I will make sure they know this.

 

[Bill Monk]

Old but good article
https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html

 

[Speedbird]

Yes i am using radial tires, what specs did you use?

If you can get the camber in the Daily Driver plus 2.5 with the negative camber setting consider it a blessing and done

I assume you don't have offset UCA bushings.

Rick E should get a nickel for every time that chart is used.
He'd be rich.
I do my own alignments with it.

 

[FrnkNsteen]

Old but good article
https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html

Yep,... That's what I used to set mine up in my Barracuda. Moog offset bushing in the UCA help get more caster, which you want with radial tires. Mine came out at just under 5 degrees of positive caster. More than I would have asked for per the Skosh chart on the Allpar link, but in fairness, I asked them to give me the most caster they could. Camber is set on mine to about -.89 degrees. I told them I wanted .75 - 1 degree of negative camber. My toe in is about .14 Degrees in on each side. See below for my alignment printout. Car drives straight and steady

 

[Cranky]

Anyone ever purposely 'angled' the rear end for some negative camber? Ya can't get much but some is better than nothing if you're doing some corner burning racing.....

 

[moes]

K7103 Moog Offset Bushing that allow for more positive caster.

If you installed them like the instructions in the package they might not help you much. The Moog intention of the bushings are for rusty cars that have sagging frames that bend inward over time.

The "trick" is to install them like this diagram below and ignore the Moog instructions. The arrows will be pointing opposite directions front bushing to rear bushing.

First make sure you set the ride height first to what you want. Factory manual alignment specs are no good for radial tires, they only work if you use bias-ply tires. For Radial tires, Camber -.50 to 0 degrees, Caster as much positive as you can get up to 3 degrees and toe in 1/16th to 1/8th inch. Car runs down the road straight as an arrow now. You will be limited to what you can do with stock A arm bushings, but if you have the Moog off set A arm bushing you can tweek it a little more.

 

[Speedbird]

Anyone ever purposely 'angled' the rear end for some negative camber? Ya can't get much but some is better than nothing if you're doing some corner burning racing.....

I've noticed new cars going down the road like this.
Seems to be "normal" from the amount I see.

 

[Cranky]

The newer cars with independent rear suspension can easily get that and they handle a lot better than the older cars but many think that you can't get an old Mopar to handle worth a crap but that's simply not true. And I really like what was said on that site listed above..... "While we’re working with suspension geometry that was designed 45 years ago, it was also way ahead of its time, with features that many modern cars would love to have (such as indirect, rear-anchored torsion bars with zero unsprung weight). Obviously, the Chrysler engineers knew what they wanted, and they delivered, from maximum anti-dive to near-perfect bump steer. And the published (FSM) alignment specs were, generally, very good. However, in one area, they succumbed to the desires of the marketing guys: caster." And I agree with it...

 

[wyrmrider]

Back in the late 60's early 70's we added a lot of caster to the California Highway Patrol dodges even with 15 x 6.5 then 15x7 with Blue Streaks
Caster Oil help? we upped the torsion bars from the factory .98 never did get a good sway bar solution for the C bodies (or Imperials D (with frame) or C Body) added a leaf to the rears The last Big dodges had V rated radials
First time I've seen the MOOG trick printed- thanks for the reminder

 

[dvw]

Set camber between 0/-.5, caster as much as you can get. More than likely even with off-set bushings you'll be lucky to get +3 degrees matched positive caster on both sides. Toe at -.10 degree. Don't get to caught up in numbers as long as it has over 1.5 degree positive caster and camber in the correct range listed. Remember rake (chassis angle will reduce your Caster reading at a 1 to 1 ratio). This experience comes from performing alignments for 30+ years.
Doug