barbiebandit
Well-Known Member
I'm a backyard mechanic that can change oil, brakes, alternator...basically I know how to turn a bolt, but am a newbie to the intricacies of optimizing combustion and tuning. TLDR: dumb it down for me.
74 satellite RR clone...my first mopar adventure.
Has '66 383 in it mated to 727 auto 3sp and B&M shift kit
Had the original intake and 2bbl carb on it. Ran fine, but I wanted more. Also, the engine looked completely stock except for some chrome valve covers. When I removed the current stock intake and carb, it still had the factory insulation there...so I bet the original cam is still in the motor and it hasn't even been apart.
So I found a cheap craigslist deal ($200):
Edelbrooke 383 Torker Intake with a 4bbl holley carb with electric choke. Numbers are :
8051B and 80508-3 (and 2765 is the date code)
According to Google This is apparently a 750cfm dual feed 4160.
It does not have a ported vacuum (no nipple for the hose anyway). so manifold vacuum only. I also have a non adjustable vacuum advance can on the car.
So after doing the intake and carb swap it bugs when I apply the gas (in gear - in neutral it revs and sounds boss). But in gear below 30 MPH it tries to stall unless I give it a feather touch on the gas, especially from a full stop. over 30 MPH it doesn't try to stall or bog, but has no guts...I can slowly bring it up to enough speed to bury the needle on the hwy, but if I am doing like 50 MPh and tromp on the gas, it just slowly increases speed..no downshift.
the questions:
I was told the fuel pump probably is not great (there is a sub 5 psi on the dual fuel feed gauge) and should be changed as it probably can't keep up with the fuel demands of the new setup.
Do you agree?
What fuel pump should I get?
I had my local parts supplier look up a 71 roadrunner (since that had a 383) for compatible fuel pumps.
There is a holley model 12-440-11 which delivers 110GPH with 6.5 to 8psi available... is this too much psi and cause the float to not seat properly and flood my engine?
Or there is an OEM type from Mr. Gasket (part no. 12S) putting out 4-7 psi and 35 GPH.
Also, Should I plug my non vacuum advance into my manifold vacuum? I was told to try and get a nipple for where the ported vacuum should be but I wonder if the porting in the carb is even in there. right now I don't have the plugged into any vacuum.
Also, any issue with the originL cam in there with this setup? I really hope not.
My plan is to do the fuel pump and see if that helps. if not, I will have to bring it to a performance tuning shop since I don't know enough of the rocket science behind it all but rather see what I can before though.
74 satellite RR clone...my first mopar adventure.
Has '66 383 in it mated to 727 auto 3sp and B&M shift kit
Had the original intake and 2bbl carb on it. Ran fine, but I wanted more. Also, the engine looked completely stock except for some chrome valve covers. When I removed the current stock intake and carb, it still had the factory insulation there...so I bet the original cam is still in the motor and it hasn't even been apart.
So I found a cheap craigslist deal ($200):
Edelbrooke 383 Torker Intake with a 4bbl holley carb with electric choke. Numbers are :
8051B and 80508-3 (and 2765 is the date code)
According to Google This is apparently a 750cfm dual feed 4160.
It does not have a ported vacuum (no nipple for the hose anyway). so manifold vacuum only. I also have a non adjustable vacuum advance can on the car.
So after doing the intake and carb swap it bugs when I apply the gas (in gear - in neutral it revs and sounds boss). But in gear below 30 MPH it tries to stall unless I give it a feather touch on the gas, especially from a full stop. over 30 MPH it doesn't try to stall or bog, but has no guts...I can slowly bring it up to enough speed to bury the needle on the hwy, but if I am doing like 50 MPh and tromp on the gas, it just slowly increases speed..no downshift.
the questions:
I was told the fuel pump probably is not great (there is a sub 5 psi on the dual fuel feed gauge) and should be changed as it probably can't keep up with the fuel demands of the new setup.
Do you agree?
What fuel pump should I get?
I had my local parts supplier look up a 71 roadrunner (since that had a 383) for compatible fuel pumps.
There is a holley model 12-440-11 which delivers 110GPH with 6.5 to 8psi available... is this too much psi and cause the float to not seat properly and flood my engine?
Or there is an OEM type from Mr. Gasket (part no. 12S) putting out 4-7 psi and 35 GPH.
Also, Should I plug my non vacuum advance into my manifold vacuum? I was told to try and get a nipple for where the ported vacuum should be but I wonder if the porting in the carb is even in there. right now I don't have the plugged into any vacuum.
Also, any issue with the originL cam in there with this setup? I really hope not.
My plan is to do the fuel pump and see if that helps. if not, I will have to bring it to a performance tuning shop since I don't know enough of the rocket science behind it all but rather see what I can before though.
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