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Bad engine following transmission overhaul?

stuck float , take the carb off and go through it. it's probably dumping gas.
replacing a trans is so simple. I would never pay someone to it.
 
I bet your car sat for a few years without running fauxrunner73. Am I right?
 
No headers on the car (yet!) but otherwise no manifold or exhaust problems noted... I did find a break in the EVAP vacuum line leading back to the fuel tank, but otherwise I didn't see any damaged lines that might have been caused by the install. The quest continues... thanks for the suggestion!
 
I don't think I have enough time to respond to everyone's posts and suggestions tonight, but please let me say THANK YOU for the suggestions. I have a lot of work to do, but you guys are the best. Thanks for the knowledge dump, and keep it coming! I will let you know as soon as I find the culprit.

Another data point for the debate. The engine is still starving for fuel and won't turn over 90% of the time, but it seems to start if I restrict the airflow during startup. A potential choke problem? If I cap the snorkel and the warm-air inlet with my hand during start, I have a 60%+ chance of having the engine start... then it inevitably dies afterwards, but at least it turns over! If I don't restrict airflow to the carb, it almost never starts. Does this lead to anything new?

Thanks again everyone... I'm go grateful for your help.
 
Rebuild the carb.
My experience, the transmissions usually quit after a year or so if the car wasn't driven much or sat for a few years.
I'd still look at the gas tank. There are hoses for the vents on the front of the tank that are probably 45 years old.
Also my experience, sometimes you fix one system on a car and something else goes wrong for no reason, ya know, you fix the brakes and now it won't start. Who knows?! They're quirky sometimes.
 
For the sake of clarity, normally "the engine turns over" means it will crank but not start. Remove the air cleaner when the engine is cold and with the engine OFF, open the throttle and see if the choke snaps shut.
 
coloradodave said:
For the sake of clarity, normally "the engine turns over" means it will crank but not start. Remove the air cleaner when the engine is cold and with the engine OFF, open the throttle and see if the choke snaps shut.
Click to expand...


Thanks for clarifying, in case I muddled it up. Yes, the engine cranks but will not start. As for the choke test, it didn't move with throttle application. This picture shows the location of choke plate - both
20181113_185351.jpg
before and after.
 
Check the fuel filter. If restricting the air is getting it to fire up you’re not getting enough gas into the carb for some reason. Holding your hand over the opening causes the engine to suck harder on the carb boasters and draws in a little bit of fuel so that it starts
 
When the engine is 'stone' cold (overnight), if you open the throttle, the choke blade should snap shut. Then when cranking, the choke blade should open slightly (Choke break adjustment in your manual). If you start the car and then repeatedly open and close the throttle an inch or so, make sure the choke blade is not closing and opening with it. You can also check to see if the choke is malfunctioning by wiring it open to test.
Also, with the air cleaner off, when the engine stalls, look down into the carburetor and work the throttle. If there is a fuel delivery problem, you won't see 2 streams of gas spraying down into the venturies.
 
Check Distributor, cap, wires, rotor and such. Small block with distributor in back, removing the trans requires working around the distributor, and if the back of the engine was not supported and the distributor left in place, the distributor may have contacted the firewall.
 
Gentlemen... success at long last! Based on your feedback, and some very useful gouge from a personal friend and B-Body guru, I was able to isolate the problem down to the fuel system. We were able to rule out the fuel tank, fuel lines, and fuel pump as the problem, which led (as most of you already knew) to the carb. It came with the car, but I believe this is a cheap knock-off of the Carter BBD... less than $60 on eBay. Anyway, when I cracked open the carb, we discovered that the middle gasket (between the upper valve assembly and the lower float/bowl assembly) was misaligned and pinched off in one place. As a result, it was likely impeding fuel flow through the carb.
20181117_113208.jpg

Advanced Auto Parts didn't have a matching gasket, so we fabricated the missing section out of gasket material, reinstalled, and closed the carb. We also replaced the in-line fuel filter because it was old... however, didn't look very dirty or clogged. After those two mods, she fired right up. Success!

After a trial drive around the block, my only issue now appears to be a super-fast idle while driving... to the point where the car gains speed w/out my foot on the pedal when idling down the road. That, and the engine revs very high when I put it into Park; much higher than the fast-idle setting, for example. This usually remedies itself with a tap of the gas pedal, but still unusual. Perhaps a sticky throttle lever, or other issue with the brand-new transmission? Dunno... but I'm clearly on to my next adventure. would love any advice on the NEWEST issue of 73-won't-run-right, but I am hugely grateful for the help so far. I hope that this might be a useful troubleshooting for you in the future.
 
Thanks for the update. Once you get the bugs worked out there's really not that much that can go wrong with these old Chryslers.
 
fauxrunner73 said:
Gentlemen... success at long last! Based on your feedback, and some very useful gouge from a personal friend and B-Body guru, I was able to isolate the problem down to the fuel system. We were able to rule out the fuel tank, fuel lines, and fuel pump as the problem, which led (as most of you already knew) to the carb. It came with the car, but I believe this is a cheap knock-off of the Carter BBD... less than $60 on eBay. Anyway, when I cracked open the carb, we discovered that the middle gasket (between the upper valve assembly and the lower float/bowl assembly) was misaligned and pinched off in one place. As a result, it was likely impeding fuel flow through the carb.
View attachment 679956
Advanced Auto Parts didn't have a matching gasket, so we fabricated the missing section out of gasket material, reinstalled, and closed the carb. We also replaced the in-line fuel filter because it was old... however, didn't look very dirty or clogged. After those two mods, she fired right up. Success!

After a trial drive around the block, my only issue now appears to be a super-fast idle while driving... to the point where the car gains speed w/out my foot on the pedal when idling down the road. That, and the engine revs very high when I put it into Park; much higher than the fast-idle setting, for example. This usually remedies itself with a tap of the gas pedal, but still unusual. Perhaps a sticky throttle lever, or other issue with the brand-new transmission? Dunno... but I'm clearly on to my next adventure. would love any advice on the NEWEST issue of 73-won't-run-right, but I am hugely grateful for the help so far. I hope that this might be a useful troubleshooting for you in the future.
Click to expand...
Rebuild that carb, I think you still got problems with the symptoms you’re now describing.
 
Sticky throttle. Get under the hood and check it while it's running.
 
oldbee said:
Rebuild that carb, I think you still got problems with the symptoms you’re now describing.[/QUOTE Air leak around throttle shaft?
Click to expand...
 
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